Artic Silver 2.8 - OEM+ long term project
- Thread starter 5harp3y
- Start date
Got a few, he had a full respray last year. Original 328 sport model, M50 manifold just been on the rolling road and hit 217BHP.
absolutely stunning! Avus blue?
Oh that does look nasty but a great looking wheel once finished!! Too bad you weren't closer, I love polishing as much as HT admires nuts (@miller1098 being his all time favs). JIM
Yes Avus Blue.
So small weekend update and then i'll have a mega update in a few days as something very very exciting (to me) has just happened
Was replacing the radiator on my mum's mini this weekend as her local mechanic wanted £300 for what is 2 hours work!
Friday and Saturday i rectified and modified my carbon (fake) centre console.
As you may have seen i have swapped in a complete facelift console and then wrapped it in 4d carbon. i was never happy with the wrapping and bought some proper 3M dinoc carbon to do it in.
all i can say is i'm 1000000000% happier and the 3M stuff is so much easier to use.
here's a before with the 4D stuff
and then the 3M dinoc
and i also fitted this awesome dual USB port that also comes with a voltage meter in it. I've replaced the cig lighter with it. love it and shows a spot on 14v when driving and 11.8 when off.
it even lights up the correct orange!
Was replacing the radiator on my mum's mini this weekend as her local mechanic wanted £300 for what is 2 hours work!
Friday and Saturday i rectified and modified my carbon (fake) centre console.
As you may have seen i have swapped in a complete facelift console and then wrapped it in 4d carbon. i was never happy with the wrapping and bought some proper 3M dinoc carbon to do it in.
all i can say is i'm 1000000000% happier and the 3M stuff is so much easier to use.
here's a before with the 4D stuff
and then the 3M dinoc
and i also fitted this awesome dual USB port that also comes with a voltage meter in it. I've replaced the cig lighter with it. love it and shows a spot on 14v when driving and 11.8 when off.
it even lights up the correct orange!
Looks good, much better than the 4D wrap looked.
Big improvement Tim, like that a lot.
Tony.
Tony.
so this is really exciting for me. I've finally got the Style 24 wheels refurbed and mounted and i'm completely over the moon with them.
I started the refurb myself but quickly realised that was going to take far too long. a quick trip to MyAlloys in Basingstoke and they are done.
New centre caps from our good friends @Soper Parts Lincoln and some eBay bolt caps and we are good to go.
They are BMW OEM Style 24 which came from a 1995 BMW M3 LTW
These are the rarest style 24s available as they are 1995 only LTW wheels
Forged
Perfect Z3 fitment (Same as standard wheels)
They weigh 10kgs (as a set) less than the originals so some good unsprung weight savings
My tyres are still cheap cack but have loads of tread so not going to waste that
also treated the car to some snow foam
next jobs:
Rear beam bushes
Rear trailing arm bushes
Front ARB bushes
Front ball joints
gearbox oil
I started the refurb myself but quickly realised that was going to take far too long. a quick trip to MyAlloys in Basingstoke and they are done.
New centre caps from our good friends @Soper Parts Lincoln and some eBay bolt caps and we are good to go.
They are BMW OEM Style 24 which came from a 1995 BMW M3 LTW
These are the rarest style 24s available as they are 1995 only LTW wheels
Forged
Perfect Z3 fitment (Same as standard wheels)
They weigh 10kgs (as a set) less than the originals so some good unsprung weight savings
My tyres are still cheap cack but have loads of tread so not going to waste that
also treated the car to some snow foam
next jobs:
Rear beam bushes
Rear trailing arm bushes
Front ARB bushes
Front ball joints
gearbox oil
Loving the pattern on the tyre sidewall, why don't the expansive brands think of these things!
Very very nice wheels and looks awesome on a silver z.
Was the a powder coat or painted finish. Looks nice and smooth.
Very very nice wheels and looks awesome on a silver z.
Was the a powder coat or painted finish. Looks nice and smooth.
Powdercoated and clear coated, amazing finish
Love those rims! Good work!
So my exhaust tips were always horrible and i didn't want to pay the money BMW wanted for some new ones.
So i made my own:
Start with this
Take some 304 stainless pipe
chop in half
protect with tape, mount in vice and mark three holes, then struggle like crazy to drill the 304 with cobalt drill bits
mount your drill and polishing mop
get your uncle to weld on some nuts (stainless)
attach to the car with stainless bolts and spring washers
So i made my own:
Start with this
Take some 304 stainless pipe
chop in half
protect with tape, mount in vice and mark three holes, then struggle like crazy to drill the 304 with cobalt drill bits
mount your drill and polishing mop
get your uncle to weld on some nuts (stainless)
attach to the car with stainless bolts and spring washers
The USB port with voltage meter looks great and useful. Can you share where you purchased it from please?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252673267574?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:ITThe USB port with voltage meter looks great and useful. Can you share where you purchased it from please?
The exhaust tips look great nice work
Nice work on the exhaust, looks very good!
So massive job half completed this week.
Mrs Sharpey is off in Cape Verde this week celebrating her 30th year with her girly maates. That meant i could take a week off to work on the Zed!!!
So starting Wednesday (i ended up working Monday and Tuesday) i started the process of rebuilding the rear end of the car.
Before i started this jjob i made sure i took all the advice i could, thank you massively to @Lee and @GazHyde for great advice
Parts sourced
Revshift rear bushes with 12mm+ diff raising kit
Powerflex rear trailing arm bushes
Pagid brake wear sensor (mines missing)
Pagid handbrake cables
the process as i did it.
jack the car up the day before and Plusgas everything you can see .... especially if your car spent it's life on the coast like mine
Jack up the car and support on 4 x axle stands, making sure the car is as level as can be (my driveway is like the surface of the moon so quite tricky)
unclip all the electrical connectors
2 x ABS
1 x brake pad wear
1 x speedo in the diff
undo the exhaust, luckily being a pre face lift 2.8 my exhaust unbolts in the mid pipe after the cat
undo the 4 x 16mm nuts on the propshaft by the diff (bag the nuts) also mark the position of the diff so you can put it all back the same way
undo the brake calipers and carriers, remove the discs and handbrake shoes, DONT drop the small pin that holds the handbrake cable in place
undo the rear droplinks and push out of the way
undo the rear brake line flexi's near the rear arms, block the pipes or put bags on them
this bit was a pain, make sure you use proper flare spanners otherwise you WILL round off the unions
make sure to bag everything up and label as you go
at this point go get some paracetamol as you will have continuously whacked yourself against the extremely hard metal diff cover
go have a cuppa and some lunch, time to tackle the shittest part of this job. The horrible little b*****d 6mm bolts holding the support bracket on
best thing about these are: they are full of crud, a pain to get to (especially the drivers side) and if these don't come off the job is ballsed
take your 6mm 3/4 drive bit and hammer it into the bolt so it is well and truly seated, give a small prayer to the car gods, and unwind. they aren't very tight but they are a pain.
mine all came out without too much difficulty
grab the ends of the hanbrake cables in the hubs with some mole grips and just wiggle and pull and mine popped out.
undo the nuts on the lever end in the car and pull the remainder out when the beam is removed.
undo the lower shock mounts
support the diff / subframe on your epic new hulk themed jack
undo diff bolt
undo the large nuts holding the beam on
lower and wiggle / wrestle it out
drag it into your garage, clean up and call that day 1
Mrs Sharpey is off in Cape Verde this week celebrating her 30th year with her girly maates. That meant i could take a week off to work on the Zed!!!
So starting Wednesday (i ended up working Monday and Tuesday) i started the process of rebuilding the rear end of the car.
Before i started this jjob i made sure i took all the advice i could, thank you massively to @Lee and @GazHyde for great advice
Parts sourced
Revshift rear bushes with 12mm+ diff raising kit
Powerflex rear trailing arm bushes
Pagid brake wear sensor (mines missing)
Pagid handbrake cables
the process as i did it.
jack the car up the day before and Plusgas everything you can see .... especially if your car spent it's life on the coast like mine
Jack up the car and support on 4 x axle stands, making sure the car is as level as can be (my driveway is like the surface of the moon so quite tricky)
unclip all the electrical connectors
2 x ABS
1 x brake pad wear
1 x speedo in the diff
undo the exhaust, luckily being a pre face lift 2.8 my exhaust unbolts in the mid pipe after the cat
undo the 4 x 16mm nuts on the propshaft by the diff (bag the nuts) also mark the position of the diff so you can put it all back the same way
undo the brake calipers and carriers, remove the discs and handbrake shoes, DONT drop the small pin that holds the handbrake cable in place
undo the rear droplinks and push out of the way
undo the rear brake line flexi's near the rear arms, block the pipes or put bags on them
this bit was a pain, make sure you use proper flare spanners otherwise you WILL round off the unions
make sure to bag everything up and label as you go
at this point go get some paracetamol as you will have continuously whacked yourself against the extremely hard metal diff cover
go have a cuppa and some lunch, time to tackle the shittest part of this job. The horrible little b*****d 6mm bolts holding the support bracket on
best thing about these are: they are full of crud, a pain to get to (especially the drivers side) and if these don't come off the job is ballsed
take your 6mm 3/4 drive bit and hammer it into the bolt so it is well and truly seated, give a small prayer to the car gods, and unwind. they aren't very tight but they are a pain.
mine all came out without too much difficulty
grab the ends of the hanbrake cables in the hubs with some mole grips and just wiggle and pull and mine popped out.
undo the nuts on the lever end in the car and pull the remainder out when the beam is removed.
undo the lower shock mounts
support the diff / subframe on your epic new hulk themed jack
undo diff bolt
undo the large nuts holding the beam on
lower and wiggle / wrestle it out
drag it into your garage, clean up and call that day 1
Day 2
this is the big strip / clean day
time to take the rear beam apart and give it a lick of paint
state of the beam, looks like it's been under the sea
all very easy to take apart
4 x diff bolts
4 x RTAB bolts
then the rear beam is seperate
take the beam to your friendly local garage who for £20 cash will press the bushes out for you.
next up time to remove the RTAB for the arms
i saw many ways to do this online, my chosen methid was:
Cut the thick ends of the bushes down with a sharp razor blade knife
Trim the smaller end too
Apply heat using a blowtorch
Attach a three arm puller and use an old socket as a drift
Wind it down and it will pop out
I then cleaned up the inner sleeves with a drum sander on a drill
Next up attack everything with an angle grinder and wire brush until it is slightly better than it was (not perfect) and then coat in POR15 metal prep and then POR15 Chassis black
Leave to dry and go inside and wash up
this is the big strip / clean day
time to take the rear beam apart and give it a lick of paint
state of the beam, looks like it's been under the sea
all very easy to take apart
4 x diff bolts
4 x RTAB bolts
then the rear beam is seperate
take the beam to your friendly local garage who for £20 cash will press the bushes out for you.
next up time to remove the RTAB for the arms
i saw many ways to do this online, my chosen methid was:
Cut the thick ends of the bushes down with a sharp razor blade knife
Trim the smaller end too
Apply heat using a blowtorch
Attach a three arm puller and use an old socket as a drift
Wind it down and it will pop out
I then cleaned up the inner sleeves with a drum sander on a drill
Next up attack everything with an angle grinder and wire brush until it is slightly better than it was (not perfect) and then coat in POR15 metal prep and then POR15 Chassis black
Leave to dry and go inside and wash up