Rebody Another 507 build

[Duncodin]

Grill surrounds I tried a chrome spray as an interim, but I'm hoping we can find someone to do them and the bumpers in stainless steel at some point

I tried simoniz chrome spray on one of my grill surround. It's VERY thin paint and I just couldn't get it on in a decent coat. I'll need to rub it off when it's dry but maybe I'll just rub it flat first and put on a coat of clear lacquer and see what happens. Can't make it any worse than it is. I'll report back.

 

[Piran]

One front wheel arch liner pretty much done:

it's amazing what you can do with a heat gun

 

[10stb]

One front wheel arch liner pretty much done:View attachment 295273
it's amazing what you can do with a heat gun

I'm holding off on the liners until I've driven it a few miles to see how it sits after being on stands for a long time. May end up putting a lowering kit on

 

[Piran]

But the liners are relative to the bodywork not the wheels so it shouldn't make a difference having been on stands. My z3 was lowered when I got it and I think is looking about right.

 

[10stb]

But the liners are relative to the bodywork not the wheels so it shouldn't make a difference having been on stands. My z3 was lowered when I got it and I think is looking about right.

Not 100% sure but if I do decide to lower it, wouldn't the liners have to come out to do that.

 

[Piran]

No, shouldn't need to. You can get to everything you need to with them in and the joy of thermoplastic is you can heat it and reshape it and when it cools it will stay in the new shape. I hurried it a bit so it's a bit messy but i've managed to reshape the liner so it's mostly not visible and doesn't bind on the bonnet

 

[DaveP]

I tried simoniz chrome spray on one of my grill surround. It's VERY thin paint and I just couldn't get it on in a decent coat. I'll need to rub it off when it's dry but maybe I'll just rub it flat first and put on a coat of clear lacquer and see what happens. Can't make it any worse than it is. I'll report back.

Has anyone tried Rub n Buff with a clear lacquer ? I've used it on a cosplay and it looks good if you want "old chrome". Might be an expensive option though as comes in tiny tubes.

 

[Duncodin]

Has anyone tried Rub n Buff with a clear lacquer ? I've used it on a cosplay and it looks good if you want "old chrome". Might be an expensive option though as comes in tiny tubes.

Rub n buff. I'd never heard if it so went a googling.

Seems to be a wax based product. Maybe a bit like clear shoe polish with metalic particles.

Can't see something like acrylic lacquer working. Can't paint on wax.

 

[DaveP]

Rub n buff. I'd never heard if it so went a googling.

Seems to be a wax based product. Maybe a bit like clear shoe polish with metalic particles.

Can't see something like acrylic lacquer working. Can't paint on wax.

You are probably correct. I covered mine (it was on a Jango Fett helmet made out of EVA foam) with a clear coat that was specific for covering acrylic paint and there were no ill effects.

the paint used was :

Valour Clear Coat 400ml Aerosol

Valour is a fully flexible clear coat developed by Poly-Props LTD.-Valour produces a flexible and strong top coat-Water and impact resistant-Ideal for flexible services such as foam, plastics and fabrics.Available in a Satin-gloss or Matt finish>Provides long term protection against common paint...

www.poly-props.com

 

[Duncodin]

I haven't even looked at my wheel arch liners yet. In fact I'm not quite sure where I put them

@Piran Can I ask about the liner. This picture of your car from a few months ago

Is that the liner visible below the wheel arch? Is the GRP wheel arch really that much higher than the liner?

As I said I haven't looked at mine yet but head is already planning how to do it.

Thanks
Ian

 

[Piran]

I haven't even looked at my wheel arch liners yet. In fact I'm not quite sure where I put them

@Piran Can I ask about the liner. This picture of your car from a few months ago

View attachment 295363

Is that the liner visible below the wheel arch? Is the GRP wheel arch really that much higher than the liner?

As I said I haven't looked at mine yet but head is already planning how to do it.

Thanks
Ian

Yes there's quite a difference between the new bodywork and the original liners, but a bit of cutting here and there and judicious use of a heat gun and you can reshape it to get a reasonable fit.

 

[Piran]

Before (albeit not screwed down fully:

After:

 

[Piran]

A bit of bashing and so far:

 

[Piran]

So before fixing it in place, it's fixing the gaps between the new and old door skin edges. A bit of work on alignment/panel gaps (but given one of my other cars is a Triumph herald then I can forgive a lot) and then the door handles ....

 

[10stb]

Coming along nicely Piran. Are you keeping the red hood or are you planning on changing it. I was booked in for hood replacement next month but I'm going to miss that deadline so have moved it to early July. Torn between red or black

 

[Piran]

Planning on staying with the red

 

[10stb]

Planning on staying with the red

Nice
What will the body colour be eventually. Assuming you're going to run it with the gel coat for a while

 

[Piran]

I was thinking the John Surtees Silberblau - metallic blue silver) but I must I quite like the blue at the moment

 

[Duncodin]

. . . .
fixing the gaps between the new and old door skin edges.
. . . .

Can you tell me more about your plans there? I mean you're not looking at a permanent bond between the skins are you or something like a rubber piping kind of thing?

BTW. Hows your driver's side door skin looking? Mine fits top and bottom just fine but the swage lines don't line up. Miles out.

 

[Piran]

Can you tell me more about your plans there? I mean you're not looking at a permanent bond between the skins are you or something like a rubber piping kind of thing?

BTW. Hows your driver's side door skin looking? Mine fits top and bottom just fine but the swage lines don't line up. Miles out.

Haven't looked at it carefully yet but was thinking of taping the original door then using a structural filler and gel coat on the fibreglass then it shouldn't bond to the metal and will still be removable. Hopefully. Also looking at the top channel and whether to put some padding in the bottom so that it's not just taking all the weight on the screws at the bottom