How To Guide Z4 roof motor relocation to boot

Andrew Polasek

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Hi again, I decided to tackle the top motor relocate today armed with your excellent instructional. After much cursing, praying, and prying, I was able to wrangle the top half of the plastic housing off, revealing the motor/pump assembly. Reaching down into the well, I can move the assembly around quite a bit but cannot pull it out. Aargh! Must be an unseen tie wrap holding it back. Should I just pull like hell on the pump until it breaks free or do I need to put a camera down there and look for a tie wrap? (Trying to do this job strictly from within the boot if possible). Also, following pump relocation do you reassemble/reinstall the now-empty housing to its original location, or just discard it? Thanks in advance.
 

gookah

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you will have to give it a good pull. It will be a tie wrap.

I discarded the outer casing when I relocated mine. however I reused the dried out sound proofing by tie wrapping it around the unit to reduce the noise.
There is certainly no benefit in putting the housing back in its original location, as just imagine a subsequent owner takes the roof off to access what he can see, then finds out it is an empty container...... =))
 
Last edited:

Andrew Polasek

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Ha ha-- thanks. No sooner had I sent my post that I realized how pointless it would be to remount the empty casing. I also plan to enlarge the drain holes and/or ditch the funky drain insert others mention.

Speaking of which, the top motor side drain seems to get all the attention. But do you know if the other drain is a similar design?
 

t-tony

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Yes, it is.

Tony.
 

lucky jim

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You can pull a lever in the boot to be able to move the roof itself manually, (use for emergency override only) however it still needs different power for the locks which latch and unlatch the roof from the windscreen, unlike the manual levers on the Z3
hi
You can pull a lever in the boot to be able to move the roof itself manually, (use for emergency override only) however it still needs different power for the locks which latch and unlatch the roof from the windscreen, unlike the manual levers on the Z3
hi ive just purchased a 2006 z4 with a roof fault expecting water fault ( thats how i came across your excellent write up ) but not water a fault motor runs ok & ive noticed the red manual release feels lose & not connected ..should there be some resistance when pulled im thinking this may be the fault as the valve is stuck what do you think is it possible ?
 

t-tony

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hi

hi ive just purchased a 2006 z4 with a roof fault expecting water fault ( thats how i came across your excellent write up ) but not water a fault motor runs ok & ive noticed the red manual release feels lose & not connected ..should there be some resistance when pulled im thinking this may be the fault as the valve is stuck what do you think is it possible ?
Have you got an owners handbook?

Tony.
 

t-tony

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If the motor is running then the drive is disconnected by the sounds of it. Have you followed the full process of using the roof manually? I'll check my book later.

Tony.
 

lucky jim

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If the motor is running then the drive is disconnected by the sounds of it. Have you followed the full process of using the roof manually? I'll check my book later.

Tony.
i can get my roof up & down manually the red release ring just flops about as if doing nothing i think ether the brass button it moves on the pump is stuck or ive got a oil leak
 

t-tony

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i can get my roof up & down manually the red release ring just flops about as if doing nothing i think ether the brass button it moves on the pump is stuck or ive got a oil leak
By red ring you mean this one?
20181122_180504.jpg

Are the shelf riser controls in the correct positions mate.
Correct.
20181122_175719.jpg

Incorrect.
20181122_175729.jpg

Sorry if you know all this mate, just covering options. You could be right about the disengage cable. Can you push it back in. You have to pull and turn to release it to go back in.

Tony.
 

lucky jim

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By red ring you mean this one?View attachment 92985
Are the shelf riser controls in the correct positions mate.
Correct.
View attachment 92986
Incorrect.
View attachment 92987
Sorry if you know all this mate, just covering options. You could be right about the disengage cable. Can you push it back in. You have to pull and turn to release it to go back in.

Tony.
yes that"s the one there is no resistance it do not spring back it just feels loose & disconnected i dont know how it should feel
 

t-tony

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I'll check mine later when I get chance and let you know.

Tony.
 

Andrew Polasek

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Hi, if the top has been in "bypass" mode for some time, the brass button on the pump is stuck in. You will have to access the pump to free it up, but easy fix otherwise. You can google "Z4 bypass valve" for more info.
 

lucky jim

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Hi, if the top has been in "bypass" mode for some time, the brass button on the pump is stuck in. You will have to access the pump to free it up, but easy fix otherwise. You can google "Z4 bypass valve" for more info.
hi thanks for that im beginning to think bypass valve or oil leak when the weather gets better ill try & move it to the boot i think thats best .
 

Andrew Polasek

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Glad to help. Several weeks ago I decided to tackle my dead top motor and it was quite the project. I was determined to complete the repair through the boot alone, however the previous owner had gone nuts with zip ties so I ended up having to unbolt the rear section of top to access the pump/motor assembly. Once removed, I tried all the usual tricks to revive the motor but it was toast so I decided to replace it. But after pricing new oem, I followed a tip (thanks YouTube poster) and purchased a used (with warranty) 2014 Ford Mustang pump/motor from a seller on eBay. There are lots of them on there cheap, and model years 2008-2014 will work.

The Mustang unit is the same German manufacturer as the oem BMW, but the Mustang's is at least 25% larger. It is virtually plug and play as the hydraulic lines swap right over, as does the shorter BMW oil reservoir which I needed for clearance in its new location. I mounted the assembly vertically by zip-tying it to an L bracket I mounted with a self tapping screw in a corner of the boot. I then wrapped the motor/pump in a section of grey split foam plumbing insulation, which matches the oem carpet quite well. And..done.

The result? The top operates at warp speed now, and is super quiet. I can top up and bleed the hydraulics in place, and access is two snips of a zip tie. I encourage anyone reading this to consider this upgrade for your Zed, you will be a happy camper.
20181007_144602.jpg
20181007_185112.jpg
 

t-tony

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Great info Andrew, just a thought, have you tried to operate the disengagement cable since you moved the motor to the boot?
I would hope you will never need to use it but I'm curious is all.

Tony.
 

Andrew Polasek

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Great info Andrew, just a thought, have you tried to operate the disengagement cable since you moved the motor to the boot?
I would hope you will never need to use it but I'm curious is all.

Tony.
Actually no because on the Mustang replacement pump there is no bypass valve. Very common that your bypass is simply stuck in (as opposed to an oil leak) if your cable has been pulled for any length of time (as was mine).
 

t-tony

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Actually no because on the Mustang replacement pump there is no bypass valve. Very common that your bypass is simply stuck in (as opposed to an oil leak) if your cable has been pulled for any length of time (as was mine).
That's interesting Andrew, how do you raise the roof manually? We often hire a Mustang when we come over to Florida.

Tony.
 
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