Time for an overhaul of my 1.9 '98 BMW Z3 Individual

DrWong

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I reckon the rear on the stands is more solid than you think. It's been stood for weeks now whilst you've been bashing away and it's not moved a millimetre, right?

I personally prefer to lift from the sides rather than anything central. When I need to get it on four stands, I go around each corner and creep up incrementally, and then only remove the wheels when it's at the final working height. This greatly reduces (more or less eliminates) the risk of tipping you mention, which I feel is more likely only if you lift one side a lot relative to the other side. It's a lot of shuffling the trolley jack around to each corner repeatedly, but feels much safer to me and not had any mishaps.

In your case, I think the rear end is fine. Lift one side of the front just enough to get the wheel off the ground and place a stand, do the same on the other side, and work up to getting the car level with the back before taking the wheels off. Make sure the back is high enough so car is level when the fronts are taken off. For the front, I'll either jack up using the bolts for the lollipop bushings and then place the stand under the jack pad, or vice versa, i.e. lift with jack pad, then place stand under lollipop bolts.
 

IainP

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Exactly like Dr Wong does it. Just make sure the jack can move, they lift in an arc. I have one big jack though I can get under the diff or front crossmember if I want it really high.
I also stick the removed wheels under the car, double them up if skinnies. I have seen cars topple, it’s freakin’ scary.
ALWAYS double check the axle stands have all their feet in contact with the ground, if not whack it with a mallet. I prefer the ones with a plate on the feet.
 

DrWong

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Yeah, put as many redundancies in place as you can find. Along with the four stands and wheels under the sills, I have an extra pair of stands (for six in total), the boot jack in one of the jack pads, and then the trolley jack holding up the pad on the opposite side.

Thinking a bit more, for your front I'd recommend jacking up using the sill pads and placing stands under lollipop bolts, because the lollipop bolts are angled bits of metal and will provide more purchase on the jack stand compared to the smooth plastic jack pad.
 

Matt Barnes

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Yeah, put as many redundancies in place as you can find. Along with the four stands and wheels under the sills, I have an extra pair of stands (for six in total), the boot jack in one of the jack pads, and then the trolley jack holding up the pad on the opposite side.

Thinking a bit more, for your front I'd recommend jacking up using the sill pads and placing stands under lollipop bolts, because the lollipop bolts are angled bits of metal and will provide more purchase on the jack stand compared to the smooth plastic jack pad.
thank you @DrWong and @IainP... you've reassured me I can do it from the sides..a work mate leant me 2 jack stands so I now have 6.. my other issue is I want to get them off the jack pads so I can take the rear pads out and treat the area. Ideally I need all four wheels off the ground and jacks on the chassis rails rather than jack pads (or like you say lollipop bolts)..noting of course it's ahem on a slope...a slight one though....cheers !
 
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Matt Barnes

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so this morning... I changed tack and thought I'd have a go at getting the subframe bushes out... "relatively straightforward" I say to myself as I've seen enough to get the technique down. Oh how I laughed

started off by drilling a series of holes all around the inside which was very therapeutic as the drill bit just ate through the rubber. Then took to the coping saw, to saw all the way round...... so far so good !
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out she pops......

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so then I took to cutting a slot down the length of the bush and start peeling away with the hammer and chisel (recurring nightmares come back from the driveshaft saga).... and can I get the bugger out ??.....no..

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so decided to park that idea for another day.... got a feeling I'm cursed with anything involving a hammer and chisel !! =))

in other news... did a little test piece on card of my Fiji Green paint and must say that's a pretty close match !... albeit it is sprayed on brown card !

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DrWong

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Try some heat? Have seen people burn the rubber out on the Youtube. Probs best to go outside for that one tho..
 

Matt Barnes

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Try some heat? Have seen people burn the rubber out on the Youtube. Probs best to go outside for that one tho..
yeah...I don't have a MAP blowtorch and I think you need that sort of heat to soften it enough....looks like I'm buying one... along with the flux core welder that's on my shopping list ! =)) =))
 

Matt Barnes

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So a quick visit to the garage tonight..... thought I'd have a go at getting the sub frame bushes out.... as my wife was out for the evening, after giving up trying to drill them out.....the devil in me thought of....... FIRE....so I dug out my "standard" blow torch and set to it....

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got it nice and soft and started clubbing it with an axle stand post and hammer... but no joy...

then thought I'd let it burn for a bit.... still no joy

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I decided the "method of attack" was to wait until I could hear it popping and bubbling inside... only then I turned off the gas and gave it a mighty whacking with the axle stand post and hammer....... aaaand...

VICTORY IS MINE !!

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Learnt my lesson for the other side, didn't both drilling or doing anything..... just heated it up until I could hear it cooking.... then.... WHACK... WHACK (about 30 whacks later)

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so another lesson locked in...... left hand one was me drilling, cutting, hammering and b******** it up......right hand one was just heat.....and a damned good thrashing

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t-tony

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You should've asked Matt. Could've saved you a lot of hassle.

Tony.
 

Matt Barnes

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You should've asked Matt. Could've saved you a lot of hassle.

Tony.
Thanks mate.... I backed away from fire before as I can't really do it outside.....but had both garage doors open for a through draft....I've seen people drill out the inside and cut the sidewall of the bush and then hammer it out... people using various types of pullers... I guess I was just in a mischievous mood and thought.. "what the hell... set fire to it".... to be honest I didn't think my blow torch would be man enough.... just proves a standard blow torch is indeed good enough !
 

t-tony

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Yeah, it's just tat smell of burning rubber though;):yuck:

Tony.
 

Matt Barnes

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Another weekend so let's get at it....
First thing.. I gained a new experience in that if you burn the bushes out, the burnt rubber doesn't set again... so I had the joys of a sticky carpet, sticky shoes, sticky tools etc... Meths didn't touch it... but white spirit did !!.. so poured some over my tools and cleaned them off and poured some on my garage carpet and let it soak in... and that did the trick of getting rid of the stickiness. Then wiped round the whole of the inside of the frame to get rid of the residue
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Then it was on to grinding off as much rust and brown patches as possible...paying attention to all the bracketry and welds...using a combination of angle grinder, Drill attachments and my new set of Dremel wire cups and wheels

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inside of the sub frame bush holder thoroughly degreased..

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Cleaning up all the bracketry and welds...

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Then it was on to the first of two coats of Hammerite Red Oxide Primer... which will be followed by a top coat of Hammerite Smooth Black

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Matt Barnes

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well after spending most of yesterday drinking (Me Birthday !) , there was no chance of me going into the garage !... so....it had to wait until Sunday.... so it was time to remove the Trailing Arm bushes.... I opted for the Threaded Bar technique... and must say, it worked a treat !!

Threaded bar with a washer and two locknuts one end, Box spanner and nut the other. keeping the bar from turnnig with one spanner and winding the box spanner into the bush the other

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Rinse and repeat for the other side......


Then it was time to start stripping down the Hub

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you know they say don't drop the handbrake mechanism pin ?..... I did....luckily though, my Workmate captured it !!

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all was going well.......

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Then one of the handbrake bracket bolts snapped off... and the other one won't budge..... yet..... so it looks like some drilling and retapping is required !!

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Matt Barnes

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If you have to drill it, Toolstation do a good selection of Cobalt drill bits. I can attest they do a good job on BMW fasteners!
thanks mate...I used cobalt drill bits trying to get that bloody drive shaft nut off. To be fair I was using them for a job they weren't designed for, plus I suspect dust shield bolts aren't hardened steel..I'll try heat and whacking first, then cobalt if I need to. Plus I might need to re tap the holes if I get really unlucky !
 
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