Wiring loom replacement project

[Mario]

If you can make a list that would be great I know a few that I have already cleaned and checked but I am sure there are more hidden somewhere. Had a look in the schematics but are there pictures with the locations anywhere please? Maybe I missed them

 

[mrscalex]

Yes the wiring pdfs show all connector locations.

 

[Mario]

Ta will check and report back

 

[mrscalex]

We managed to get a small window to work on the car yesterday.

The very last of the main loom connections were completed. With the main focus being the windscreen wiper motor onto the loom connector. We'd previously struggled but eventually won getting the loom side mounted onto the bulkhead. The motor to loom connector was easier but still a struggle.

The water valve was also fiddly but the answer is to drop the bulkhead cable management bar. We also connected the wheel sensors and side indicators. As well as the alarm siren.

The audio loom was dropped in. And we adjusted the positioning/seating of the main loom and ratcheted up most of the cable ties into their final positions. We're not quite finished there yet but only needs an hour or so more. And changed the bulbs in the heater control panel.

We're cleaning all the normally hidden places as we go. Here's James cleaning the area under the windscreen scuttle panel. Before bolting up the windscreen motor and linkage.

I've decided I don't like the look of the suspension shocks so we'll be changing them. But it will be keeping its factory Sport springs as for me -15mm is the ideal ride height and they all appear to be serviceable. We'll also be changing drop links and front roll-bar bushes. The brakes are all okay being recent Brembo disks/pads. And the wishbones are recent too

The sting in the tail is the soft top will have to be resealed. No pushing some gunge in. We'll put the whole lot out of the rear bulk-head and redo it.

 

[mrscalex]

We dropped the rear suspension over the weekend. And dismantled the roof seals.

The shocks showed no rebound so confirmed as needing replacement. A reminder that even a car like this which was lovingly maintained by it's previous owner can conceal issues. The springs, trailing arms, fuel tank straps & axle carrier all have some surface corrosion which will get an MOT advisory so they will be cleaned up and treated.

The roof has been pulled back and the plastic sealing strip also removed - chassis>butyl>sealing strip>butyl>roof. It's a messy job cleaning off the old butyl then it will be relatively easy putting it back. There's also a neoprene foam seal that sits around the butyl and that has to to be replaced too.

The A-pillar seals will need a rubber patch over them to make fully water-proof. I've put silicone in currently and it's doing a job but I think it will be too susceptible to moving and splitting.

The front shocks will be removed and tested and we're expecting to replace them too.

I've noticed the diff is leaking from the drain plug hole so we'll change the fluid and put new crush washers on both plugs.

And my reversible wiring loom modification to add new horns is coming along. I'll write this up separately as it gives a brand new pair of OEM horns for around £35. It obsoletes the need to look around for secondhand ones which are mostly all knackered now.

 

[mrscalex]

Thread revival!

After 2.5 years when this car has received no real attention we have restarted. Time on Z3s has been limited the last 12 months due to personal circumstances and before that it was losing out to my 3.0 Sport.

The 3.0 looks and drives great though

So here’s the sorry looking back end of project wiring loom replacement which took on a new angle when we decided to drop the rear end and go to town.

It was relatively rust free anyway. But we’ve cleaned things up, applied rust treatment and got a coat of primer on the bare bits. Stone chip, seam sealer and several coats of green underbody paint to go before we can start reassembly.

It still won’t be a quick build. I’ll be glad if I find enough time to complete it in 6-8 weeks. But all the parts are prepared, either blasted and coated or the smaller bits done by hand. With lots of new parts collected as per usual replacements.

 

[t-tony]

Will make another cracking car Rob.

Tony.

 

[mrscalex]

Stonechip now on.

And a quick blast of the RAL 7002 satin top coat to check match against the original underbody paint. Difficult to tell the difference here. Some of this is original and some new. But the hue seems to vary on the original paint from area to area. Possibly as some areas are hit with topaz blue overspray in the factory. And the areas without stone chip probably make a difference too. So the match won’t be quite quite as good in some places. And overall it will be a bit more sandy than the olive it should be but it’s the best all-round solution I can find. Can’t take any part of this in to the paint shop to be matched like the external panels.

 

[Althulas]

Once a bit of traffic film is on there it’ll be hard to tell the difference after a few seasons. I did track down an exact match but I could not justify the outlay of a Shultz gun to spray on the coloured sealer.

 

[mrscalex]

Once a bit of traffic film is on there it’ll be hard to tell the difference after a few seasons. I did track down an exact match but I could not justify the outlay of a Shultz gun to spray on the coloured sealer.

Indeed. Certainly not meant to be a spit and polish car. I just like being thorough and keeping it factory.

 

[mrscalex]

Have been busy this week trying to get off car prep finished. Lots of cleaning up of fittings. They get a Deox bath, prime and top coat. I’ll run a tap/die across the threads before going back on the car. Selection of finished parts, some spares for the shelf.

Single biggest time consumer. Soooo much chipping and scrubbing. Bit more to do still but wanted to get some paint on where I’d finished.

Hubs and driveshafts.

Bearings and bushings.

 

[mrscalex]

Done around a new suspension for my daughter’s Peugeot 2008. Just look at this for goodness sake. Modern springs are banana shape and pull in. A nightmare to place correctly in the compressor.

 

[mrscalex]

All the paint is on now. And the off car prep has finished apart from replacing the beam and diff bushes. Might paint that prop shaft still though. Letting it down a bit. Refurbished tank straps and cushion foam fitted. I don’t begrudge @Mazza another sale but these were serviceable.

The arches and spare wheel area have had a coat of Topaz Blue. And I’ve tried to overspray the electrocoat colour like the factory does. Yes it looks that underneath the dirt on every car.

Rare clean view of this area!

James wasn’t happy with the dirty looking clips on the driveshafts (determined not to add to my list of work by replacing anything on these as they are fine). So did them with an aluminium touch in pen. Very nice.

About halfway through the reassembly now. It should pretty much be bolt up and go now.

 

[mrscalex]

Brake pipes fitted today. Full length replacements made up using old ones as a template. I cable tie each completed section as I go to keep things tight

Cleaned up bungs refitted now painting completed.

Bushes pressed in to blasted & coated beam.

Just the diff bush to fit/cover to go back on the diff now and we'll be full tilt bolting it all back up.

 

[mrscalex]

Diff bush sorted now.

Help in fitting bush on this post. https://zroadster.org/threads/oem-diff-bush-fitting-which-way-up.46263/

 

[mrscalex]

We’re putting beam and diff back as one unit. Then we’ll put the bare trailing arms back and build them up on the car.

Won’t get to it now until the weekend though.

 

[mrscalex]

Axle beam and diff back as one unit this morning.

We used this arrangement to lift. Motorbike jack stand on trolley.

Glad we hadn’t bolted the trailing arms on as well being the first time we’d done this and we’re learning how to ease it up the pins successfully. Gentle persuasion with a hammer on the underside of the bush helped.

Big moment to have it back.

@Pingu diff ear shim.

 

[Althulas]

That’s how I was doing mine with a motorcycle lift on a trolly dolly just gave a steadier platform and easier to position in place working on my own.

 

[mrscalex]

Trailing arms back on now.

Backplates added.

Fight with a tight driveshaft on driver side and awaiting an installation tool.

Flexi hoses screwed lightly into place.

 

[mrscalex]

Tight driveshaft went in nicely with proper tool. £40 but worth it to avoid a mishap whacking it.

Brake calipers rebuilt with new/pistons seals.