Time for an overhaul of my 1.9 '98 BMW Z3 Individual

[Matt Barnes]

Suppose I shouldn't be doing a plating post if I didn't mention the topic of Hydrogen Embrittlement. During the plating process the steel structure absorbs excess hydrogen atoms. This is fine for more ductile pieces like plates, brackets and small bolts. However when you get to high tensile bolts beyond a rating of 9.8, you are supposed to bake the parts in a 200 deg C oven for at least two hours to release the Hydrogen atoms for fear of the bolt failing under stress.

Now I don't know how you can prove that if you buy bolts that are above 9.8 that have been plated, have also been baked as part of that process. Bolts of this rating are like Diff mount bolts, Diff rear plate bolts, Caliper bolts etc.

 

[Matt Barnes]

Morning all and a happy Easter break!... question if I may. Looking at the ridiculous price of replacement fuel pipes (£191 for the pipe from the tank to the filter !!)..what's to stop me chopping where it's good (just behind the bracket) and adding the rest as SAE fuel hose? Ta..

 

[Andyboy]

Nothing, but add a slight flare to the end.

Even better, just replace the whole thing with a copper pipe.

 

[Matt Barnes]

Nothing, but add a slight flare to the end.

Even better, just replace the whole thing with a copper pipe.

Cheers Andy..maybe I'm going overkill wanting posh stainless steel for fuel and kunifer for brakes. I looked at 8mm OD stainless steel pipe as an alternative to OEM but you're right..I've not exactly got a ZM here !

 

[Mazza]

I have just looked at the two fuel lines on my breaker… look in good condition… wont take much to remove them and bring them over tomorrow for you to have a look at.
If any good to you, you are welcome to them

 

[Matt Barnes]

I have just looked at the two fuel lines on my breaker… look in good condition… wont take much to remove them and bring them over tomorrow for you to have a look at.
If any good to you, you are welcome to them

perfect Malc thank you !!!

 

[Mazza]

I’ll clean them , but they look ok

 

[Matt Barnes]

I’ll clean them , but they look ok

View attachment 295435

thank you so much..see you tomorrow !!

 

[Matt Barnes]

Extremely grateful to @Mazza for turning up to drop some parts off on his way home. Thank you so much, the pipes are in perfect nick. Got my wife to take the obligatory picture !

 

[Andyboy]

Sweet result!


I have a 1989 7 Series with all its original brake pipes - they look so much better than copper ones.

 

[Jam03]

Extremely grateful to @Mazza for turning up to drop some parts off on his way home. Thank you so much, the pipes are in perfect nick. Got my wife to take the obligatory picture !

View attachment 295597

Legend!

 

[Matt Barnes]

Sweet result!


I have a 1989 7 Series with all its original brake pipes - they look so much better than copper ones.

Fuel pipes are in really good nick, unfortunately the driveshaft was too long which is a surprise as I have the small diff and a pre facelift 1.9..but hey ho, the fuel pipes alone were a massive plus!!

 

[Matt Barnes]

Wasn't going to do much today but then decided to have a go at brake flaring. So I dug out my shiny new Draper flaring kit, which turned out to be garbage....I'll explain why later...got the pipe lined up with with the 3/16 die shoulder

then wound in the clamp.... note that on the Draper one.. 3/16 is the far left, which means it can foul with the butterfly nut...

whatever I did, I couldn't stop it twisting, hence pipes like this

Decided to dig out my late Dad's old flaring tool he had from what must be the 1960s...(unfortunately didn't have any dies). and instantly you can tell the difference in build quality. Also note the cut out that locks over the bar keeping it in place. This is key !! (I've lifted it up so you can see)

with everything locked in place... a perfect flare first time !

and look at the difference in build quality !.... thanks Dad, and thanks old school !

 

[t-tony]

Sorry, but as with most tools, it's not what you've got but how you use it. Operator error.

Tony.

 

[Matt Barnes]

Sorry, but as with most tools, it's not what you've got but how you use it. Operator error.

Tony.

not in this case, funny how I manage to bend the flare 4 times with a s*** tool, yet produce a perfect flare first time with a decent tool...

 

[t-tony]

They only bent because the tool wasn’t set up correctly. Also compare the cost of a new budget tool with the original cost of the old one. I use one like you have for joining pipes under a car for over 40 years and never have a problem. So as I said, “Operator Error”.

Tony.

 

[Matt Barnes]

They only bent because the tool wasn’t set up correctly. Also compare the cost of a new budget tool with the original cost of the old one. I use one like you have for joining pipes under a car for over 40 years and never have a problem. So as I said, “Operator Error”.

Tony.

the "new" tool doesn't allow for you to lock in the right position and hence allows movement.so I've binned it because it's cbeap crap. Anyway...it's gone now, I'ĺl stick with my Dad's one as it's robust and reliable .

 

[t-tony]

Did you tighten the wing nuts with the bar or just your fingers Matt?

Tony.

 

[Matt Barnes]

Did you tighten the wing nuts with the bar or just your fingers Matt?

Tony.

I used the bar of the yoke and a screwdriver shank to clamp it, but to no avail. If it's me doing it wrong then fine, but I just couldn't get on with it. Using my Dad's old heavy one, bubble flare first time, so I shall be using that one going forward.

 

[Matt Barnes]

A fresh day and a fresh mind.... I like to think I'm someone who admits when I'm wrong and I'd like to apologise to @t-tony for venting my frustrations on the flaring tool, so today I thought I'd give it another go. I have to admit some operator error. Firstly I'd been using the wrong shoulder. I was using the blue arrowed shoulder instead of the yellow arrowed shoulder to get the height of the pipe in the tool, so that one is definitely on me.

Secondly, it's evident that using a screwdriver shaft or the clamp handle, isn't enough to clamp it fully, I ended up using a big adjustable to really clamp it in so it bottoms out. Then I made sure the Die and the Yoke were perfectly in line, and then wound it down in a smooth motion without yanking on it. To my surprise the end result was a decent ISO flare with a flat back. I made so many cock ups yesterday I resorted to an old brake line !!

I did manage to twist one that came out flat one side, but that was one out of four goes.

So my assessment is, yes I was doing it wrong after all, but I still don't like the way the Yoke is able to move unlike the old one which locks in place. Still think I'll be using my Dad's one as it's literally "lock and load"... but yes I was using the Die wrong, and I was a little harsh on the Draper