Now your asking been a while I'm sure I removed one of my switches and then was able to pop out the LED plate or might be doable from under the gear stick boot.
Imobiliser correct procedure
- Thread starter Geoff Crispin
- Start date
Right ok, that is somewhere to start, but where does it go to ?
If you have the rear console mounted LED the cable will probably run along the centre console tunnel to control box behind glove compartment. The front mounted LED follows the last part of that route. You certainly do not want to be taking all that out unless absolutely necessary.
If you can pop the LED plate out as @Althulas suggests then you should find 3 wires to the LED pushbutton. With a digi-meter you can test if you have a supply. On my build year, the brown is common, dark blue permanent 5v supply and silver greyish is the pulse single which is <1v and difficult to measure. The pulse signal is only present when either the button is depressed or the system is armed.
IMHO you should sort out your other problems first i.e key operated central locking on all doors and boot, then programme fob to get remote locking on all, then look at what happens on LED. HTH
Thanks, its good to be getting all this info and help so will see if I can sort the locks out first. It now seems that if I unlock the passenger door the others also unlock, but locking either of the others the passenger door does not unlock.
My LED is at the front in between the switches for the heated seats these cars seem to be all different
Hi Jonco
Electrics are not my strong point, you say to use a Digi-meter. When I was having electric problems on my TR4 my son gave me a Gunsons Testune Analogue Diagnostic Multimeter as he did not need it on his classic Beetle (far from standard). I don't know how to use it but I have my MGBGT friend who does so could ask him ?
Typo - meant multi-meter - was in a rush.
I have taken little red light out of the base plate between seat switches and it is not the same as the one sent to me on Ebay, it is shorter and it is not a switch and you cant see a spring inside like the ebay one, plus there is a red sleeve over a joint in wire, so has been changed I think, but when ignition is switched off there is a very short flash, what could this mean ?
If I remember correctly it is not recommended to use an analogue meter on the zed but rather a digital is required. I'll have to check my manual to verify but it's in my shop so may take me a bit of time so if someone else can verify please?? JIM
I'm sure that when I changed mine I just followed the wire to a connector unplugged and plugged in the new one, when I get home I will check the one I had taken out. From what I remember you will get a flash from the led when taking the key out. First I would just check the wire if it is plug n play as I think I can recall I certainly had to do no soldering.
Hi one and all that contacted me. At last I have got round to checking wire loom in boot and two wires were broken which I have now repaired, but it is not operating correctly ie:
With both doors and boot unlocked, lock driver door and boot also locks and unlocks, Then lock passenger door and boot locks with drivers door and unlock, lock boot and drivers door locks and unlock, So I presume that there is another wire or two broken, but where should I look ? I have checked as best as one can and all other wires in boot loom seem ok.
Any suggestions ? Geoff
Glad you have made some progress - it could still be an internally damaged loom wire which is difficult to find - bit fiddly but it was suggested to me that you can stick pins through the wire cores on either end and check continuity for each with a multi meter.
@Murray Wall gave some good information in this thread https://zroadster.org/threads/help-needed-from-an-electrickery-person.13369/page-2#post-215395.
I went through a scenario where I found 2 broken wires and inserted a new DIY section of loom. I thought I had sorted problem only for it to re-appear some months later - re-checked wiring but no faults found - changed passenger door actuator solenoid and ok since.
You could try removing the n/s door acctuator and lubricate it, then replace it and see if that has any effect on the problem. While the door card is off lubricate the linkages connected to the door catch and make that all works freely, this the main reason the the door acctuators fail.
Tony.
Tony.
Hi Tony
Why n/s and not drivers door which is side not working fully or is there a controller of sorts on n/s ?
Why n/s and not drivers door which is side not working fully or is there a controller of sorts on n/s ?
The master solenoid is in the driver's door and the slave units are in the n/s door and boot and fuel cap lock if it has one. Your car is showing exactly the same symptoms as my Z3 did and that's what I found was at fault.
Tony.
Tony.
Hi jonco & tony Thanks for all your helpful info think I will have a much closer inspection of the wires but electrics is not my strong point. I dont have a work shop manual so what would be involved removing the door card to get at the actuator ? Do either of you know the colourss of the wire that might be at fault if it might still be a broken wire ?
Geoff
Geoff
Door card removal is straightforward but a bit fiddly to get back in. This was a recent thread https://zroadster.org/threads/door-cards-tips-for-removal-refitting-lube-anyone.12856/#post-203817
Will have to get ETM out to check wire colours but this is a pic of passenger door actuator solenoid.
Thanks jonco great helpful info job for another day Got to do a bit of work for a friend at Dunster beach tomorrow if it is not raining and Thursday I have got to get my TR4 MOTd
Thanks even better