DIY frustrations...
- Thread starter Dino D
- Start date
I don't touch brakes! I thought about just whipping the calliper off to get to the back plate easier but canned that quickly!Don't know wheather to cry or laugh.
Sorry to hear that certain aspects of the DIY work didn't go to plan. Learn from errors and try not to repeat them in the future.
On a old car, I was charging out a seized caliper. Could I disconnect the damn brake line.... nope. Ended up snapping off the brass connector!!! Nice puddle of brake fluid on the ground and no brakesHad to get the car towed to a garage for the repair.
At least you could still drive yours.
In regards to the reseal of the hood. Did you go anywhere near the overspill rubber slides (only way I could describe then) that are near to the inside of the hood flaps. As if you were moving the hood around these might have come out of their drain holes.
Cosmetic bits for me only until I can practice on a car that nobody needs to drive lol!
Re the overspill thingy do you mean this:
My car doesn't have it so I bought some but my car doesn't have any holes for the drain to plug into so can't be used on mine.
I think what I've done is:
its leaking from the sides only as per the pic above only, not from the back like before.
When I put the metal 'hoop' bit with the hood stapled to it back in a lot of sealant wiped off as it rubs the body on the way in (I did this singlehanded). So I reckon there is not enough sealant at the sides hence the leak. I've got some more butyl tape so will whip the hoop out and try that which should stay out when refitting. Actually writing this makes me think I should not attach sealant to the metal hoop but to car side only and the press the hoop up against it to avoid this....
I'm not sure where to start with this. As I read this, I can feel the SAME EXACT feelings you had with some of the different things. When I replaced my hood, I had to take the seats out to get to the back hoop bolts. When trying to take out the driver's seat, it's so heavy for me that I damaged the plastic entrance plate with the frame of the seat trying to get it out. @GazHyde gave me some good information on how to tilt them first instead of fighting with them. When trying to take out the passenger seat, I was able to unbolt the front bolts and one back bolt on the rail but not the inner rail bolt which was tight and the socket kept slipping off. Tried 3 different sockets, same result...seat stays IN. When putting the seats back in, the air bag light doesn't go out. All connections seem good. Buy an electronic device that's supposed to erase the code and the light.............doesn't work...........light stays on.
I really had to laugh about the trolly jack. It's just a pain in the tail dragging it in and out of it's storage place. People who don't work on their own cars never realize this but sometimes half the work you do on many jobs on your car goes to time getting out all the tools you think you will need, especially if they're packed away somewhere in your shed (der hinterlands) or in the most remote part of your basement. The driver's seat in my 1.9 is too far gone to repair so I bought a beautiful replacement on e-bay for $100.00. The only problem is that it's from a Z4. I'm hoping I can somehow exchange the seats and the electrical connections which should be loads of fun.
As far as the caulk on the hood, I used a 3M product caulk which was waterproof but when I look back on it, I can't remember if it had butyl............uh oh...............I'll have to look it up in the store again. My car didn't have the drainage pipes you have, just a small metal box with a large hole at the bottom.
@Dino D, I don't know if you remember the post where someone had to replace a backing plate and rather that take off the entire hub, cut the plate in half and attached both halves independantly and, I think, somehow tacked the both halves together. Perhaps someone reading this will comment.
But I have empathy for you and the work you did. I swear I'll NEVER replace my master clutch cylinder again..........Grrrrrrr. Good luck with getting the rest sorted out...................................Frankie
The overspill plastic bits look different to this. I'll try and take a picture tomorrow.
When I reattached the hood I but the sealant on the side that was attached to the body, then slotted the hood down and in. That way the sealant didn't rub off on anything else.
I might not be able to compete here but I've fitted wheel bolts that were too long as well. Fortunately they were only'tinging' the back plate and didn't destroy it.
I did have a major cockup yesterday however. My rear wings are at the painters and the boot lid was just sitting in place as I was using the boot as a toolbox. Unfortunately I let the trolley jack down a bit too fast and the boot lid fell off. I was devastated to see the corner bent and the edges all paint chipped. I've eased the lid corner back into shape. I'll think about the paint chips another time.
I did have a major cockup yesterday however. My rear wings are at the painters and the boot lid was just sitting in place as I was using the boot as a toolbox. Unfortunately I let the trolley jack down a bit too fast and the boot lid fell off. I was devastated to see the corner bent and the edges all paint chipped. I've eased the lid corner back into shape. I'll think about the paint chips another time.
Don't know whether to laugh or cry at this one....
Ouch!
I have a boot lid that's undamaged that you can gladly have if you can pick it up (it's Montreal blue so will need a paint).
Top man
Yes please! - I shall have plenty more parts that need painting soon enough.
No worries, I'll pm you my number
Just read through this thread and it made me feel soo much better! Thought it was just me that had Diy disasters? I sometimes wonder why I ever start some jobs!?
But we still do it and when it goes well it a great feeling.
But we still do it and when it goes well it a great feeling.
If anyone else needs a bootlid or bumper covers just pull your car up to my Parents' house and I'll help you load up. No charge - happy to see them go before they get damaged in storage.
Just to update on the roof- it's definitely leak free!
I spent another weekend removing the metal 'hoop' part of the frame that the hood is stapled to. That I did previously with the sealant from a tube and I didn't manage to get a good seal. Being on my own meant that I couldn't get both sides in without one side smearing sealant and not making ahold seal.
So I cleaned it all out (again) and used more of the one that came on the roll. This worked perfectly on the plastic frame to to body seal and perfectly on this too. I ran two lines of so used over 6m, probably over kill but a worked it with my finders to make sure it made a broad seal that had no way of water passing by and ensuring it bonded nicely with the frame before reinstalling.
All good now.
So lessons learned from the hood butyl refresh:
*the tape is easy to work with especially if you in your own.
*6m roll is not enough if you run two lines on both the hood yo body seal and hood 'hoop' to plastic frame seal.
*Those trim removal tools are bloody uselful in prying the old seals Larry and cleaning the old butyl.
*disposable gloves to go under workers gloves-butyl is nasty
*Panel wipe degreaser like bodyshops use dissolves butyl easily. I had a 5l can of the stuff for some reason, really good at removing the super sticky butyl remnants- just brush it on copiously and a stiff brush/Scott pad later and it's all clear.
*Mask the edges of the bodywork very well especially at the part close to the doors/where the hood will pivot upwards when you lift the frame. Lots of thick duct tape here to prevent paint damage as the metal 'hoop' part will run against the top of the wing as you lid it - really better to have two people for that part.
*Remove seats and roll hops for easier access
*Park in the shade before doing this job!
*Plan on a weekend (or two) and you'll be pease when you finish in a day or two!
Also got the heated seat pads working- was an easy fix, a bent pin in the connectir plug in the car side.
Now I have very toasty Sparco seats. Together the Raid steering wheel and Storm Greek on it really transform the driving experience as it literally feels more connected and you sit planted in your seat. Just lovely.
As for the ABS sensor...we'll need to sell some bits as that is ££ job.
These sort of trim tools, made life much easier prying the frame part and removing old sealant.
The two seals to be remade on display hear - the metal hoop part where the hood is stapled too. It is this hoop the can damaged the paint as it pivots(already cleaned in the pic).
The plastic frame that seals against the body is the 'dirty' bit in the pic before I took it out completely to clean.
When getting an new hood check if your hood supplier uses stainless steel staples... this car had a hood years back (I think carhood whareouse in Croydon) and evidently they didn't use stainless hence rusty staples that needed cleaning and treating (they weren't compromised so didn't need to start replacing them thankfully). I'll dig out the invoice to see when it was done.
Glad to hear others stories. I was fed up with this job but took a break and cracked on again and very happy now (well the A pillar seal leaked a bit when I was hosing it to check for leaks but that's an easy fix but I did swear a bit when I saw that! Now totally dry!)
I spent another weekend removing the metal 'hoop' part of the frame that the hood is stapled to. That I did previously with the sealant from a tube and I didn't manage to get a good seal. Being on my own meant that I couldn't get both sides in without one side smearing sealant and not making ahold seal.
So I cleaned it all out (again) and used more of the one that came on the roll. This worked perfectly on the plastic frame to to body seal and perfectly on this too. I ran two lines of so used over 6m, probably over kill but a worked it with my finders to make sure it made a broad seal that had no way of water passing by and ensuring it bonded nicely with the frame before reinstalling.
All good now.
So lessons learned from the hood butyl refresh:
*the tape is easy to work with especially if you in your own.
*6m roll is not enough if you run two lines on both the hood yo body seal and hood 'hoop' to plastic frame seal.
*Those trim removal tools are bloody uselful in prying the old seals Larry and cleaning the old butyl.
*disposable gloves to go under workers gloves-butyl is nasty
*Panel wipe degreaser like bodyshops use dissolves butyl easily. I had a 5l can of the stuff for some reason, really good at removing the super sticky butyl remnants- just brush it on copiously and a stiff brush/Scott pad later and it's all clear.
*Mask the edges of the bodywork very well especially at the part close to the doors/where the hood will pivot upwards when you lift the frame. Lots of thick duct tape here to prevent paint damage as the metal 'hoop' part will run against the top of the wing as you lid it - really better to have two people for that part.
*Remove seats and roll hops for easier access
*Park in the shade before doing this job!
*Plan on a weekend (or two) and you'll be pease when you finish in a day or two!
Also got the heated seat pads working- was an easy fix, a bent pin in the connectir plug in the car side.
Now I have very toasty Sparco seats. Together the Raid steering wheel and Storm Greek on it really transform the driving experience as it literally feels more connected and you sit planted in your seat. Just lovely.
As for the ABS sensor...we'll need to sell some bits as that is ££ job.
These sort of trim tools, made life much easier prying the frame part and removing old sealant.
The two seals to be remade on display hear - the metal hoop part where the hood is stapled too. It is this hoop the can damaged the paint as it pivots(already cleaned in the pic).
The plastic frame that seals against the body is the 'dirty' bit in the pic before I took it out completely to clean.
When getting an new hood check if your hood supplier uses stainless steel staples... this car had a hood years back (I think carhood whareouse in Croydon) and evidently they didn't use stainless hence rusty staples that needed cleaning and treating (they weren't compromised so didn't need to start replacing them thankfully). I'll dig out the invoice to see when it was done.
Glad to hear others stories. I was fed up with this job but took a break and cracked on again and very happy now (well the A pillar seal leaked a bit when I was hosing it to check for leaks but that's an easy fix but I did swear a bit when I saw that! Now totally dry!)
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2016
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- 231
- Model of Z
- Z3M Imola and Z4 (e89)
Good to hear you've nailed the sealing job Dino.
As you say a messy job but it needs to be right.
Tony.
As you say a messy job but it needs to be right.Tony.
Not enough time hence taking two weekends to do this when others do it in a day!@Dino D you have way too much spare time. you need to visit Zed Shed Lydney I can use you
Car hasn't even left Kent since last years BMW Hq run...got cobwebs in the filler flap it get used so little, even at 20mpg it's taking me ages to use a tank!
But as you've erm...'matured' and gone the softy Z4 option I'll come help you out and get one of the S50's off your hands
Just you wait @Dino D, the day will come when you succumb ........ he he.
Good job on the roof BTW
first prise for patience.
Whipped out my drivers seat last week to install new bushes due to slight movement. I was so careful after all the stories on here of scratching this and that.
Anyway I got them out without a problem to find the bushes were fine, already done before I owned the car.
So back went the seat and bloody snapped the seat belt guide! All for nothing! Gutted
Anyway I got them out without a problem to find the bushes were fine, already done before I owned the car.
So back went the seat and bloody snapped the seat belt guide! All for nothing! Gutted