chilipeppermaniac
Regular Member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2018
- Points
- 13
Hmmm, 2 differing answers.
Z3 Rear Window
- Thread starter hard top
- Start date
Both @Eddie Zedder and @Sean d are correct, but for different suppliers of windows
The OEM windows have the rubber seal as the water seal
The Emiata windows have an extra cloth flap that is glued down as the water seal http://www.emiata.com/z3window.asp
As long as the rest of your top is in OK condition (wear rubs and stitching etc), then you should be able to fit another window and get a good water seal.
The OEM windows have the rubber seal as the water seal
The Emiata windows have an extra cloth flap that is glued down as the water seal http://www.emiata.com/z3window.asp
As long as the rest of your top is in OK condition (wear rubs and stitching etc), then you should be able to fit another window and get a good water seal.
chilipeppermaniac
Regular Member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2018
- Points
- 13
Could you possibly post pics of this cloth piece? Or is it not visible after installation. Also, what brand Window did you get?
jaguartvr
Zorg Guru (I)
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2017
- Points
- 95
The main problem with replacing the window is the stitching, if it has started to rot I would suggest changing the whole top. If just a small section of stitching has gone it is possible to sew the zip back into position.
In the last year I have replaced 4 rear windows, 2 were bought from eBay as re[lacements and 2 again from eBay but I sent the old windows off to have the plastic replaced but retaining the old zip. I sent the 2 off together and got them done for £100.
The windows using the old zip went in far better and the plastic strip was able to be reused, just slip the cloth back in with the back side of a butter knife. I also used 2mm 3m double sided tape as well, I stuck it on first and then pulled the protection side off as I worked the cloth into the plastic trim.
I had problems with the zip so bought a YKK No 5 from eBay for £5 and the window went straight in, about 15 minutes to fit, then 30 minutes using the double-sided tape and butter knife. In one corner I had to sew the zip in which has resulted in a bit of a gap between the trim and the cloth. I simply lifted the flap of cloth and used some material glue and held it in place with duck tape while it set.
One of my other replacement windows has just started losing the stitching at the top, about 8" has rotted and I'm not going to attempt to repair it, new roof time. As mine is modified I am going to have a roof with a smaller rear window, made by soft tops Croydon. Big improvement for me as it gets rid of the Z3 look.
In the last year I have replaced 4 rear windows, 2 were bought from eBay as re[lacements and 2 again from eBay but I sent the old windows off to have the plastic replaced but retaining the old zip. I sent the 2 off together and got them done for £100.
The windows using the old zip went in far better and the plastic strip was able to be reused, just slip the cloth back in with the back side of a butter knife. I also used 2mm 3m double sided tape as well, I stuck it on first and then pulled the protection side off as I worked the cloth into the plastic trim.
I had problems with the zip so bought a YKK No 5 from eBay for £5 and the window went straight in, about 15 minutes to fit, then 30 minutes using the double-sided tape and butter knife. In one corner I had to sew the zip in which has resulted in a bit of a gap between the trim and the cloth. I simply lifted the flap of cloth and used some material glue and held it in place with duck tape while it set.
One of my other replacement windows has just started losing the stitching at the top, about 8" has rotted and I'm not going to attempt to repair it, new roof time. As mine is modified I am going to have a roof with a smaller rear window, made by soft tops Croydon. Big improvement for me as it gets rid of the Z3 look.
I've fitted 3 Emiata windows now and glued the flaps down, its straight forward and the new window kit has everything that you need.
I don't have any close up pics but I am well happy with it and it only took 15 mins to fit it on my own, it was the Emiata kit
Hi Sean
What glue did you use as my hood has had a new window but material flap not glued down and top seems to have shrunk on corners. Geoff
It came with the hood mate, its a contact glue, put on both surfaces and left for 5 mins before pressing in place
The kits comes with a rubber contact adhesive. On the widow refit job, I used ADOS F38, a high temp resistance rubber contact adhesive. Two years later and the glue is performing well.
Thanks Murray the window that I have this problem with is on a 2002 3L with most of sport spec that i bought 3 weeks ago
The flask holders i installed, from you in my 1.9 , with a strong double sided tape to keep them in place with flask in Geoff
The flask holders i installed, from you in my 1.9 , with a strong double sided tape to keep them in place with flask in Geoff
Mohamed Zahra
Newbie
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2019
- Points
- 4
what would be the best polish to clean the rear window appreicate your support
usernothername
Regular Member
Anyone tried using toothpaste as polish trick on the rear window? It's great as a gentle abrasive and much cheaper than 'proper' polish from eBay (which you might find smells surprisingly minty!) Worked wonderfully on my headlights which were getting fogged. Might also do a good job on the rear window?
I have always cleaned and polished such windows with whatever wax I used on the paintwork, and in fifty years on various cars have never had any problems, except on the original window on my Z3, which developed a cloudy appearance even after using BMW's special cleaner. The window of my current hood (from Car Hood Warehouse of Chessington) remains perfectly clear after about ten years of use and wax polishing. It is also thinner than the original, and therefore folds easily, with no rish of it splitting in cold weather.
A good way to prevent scratches on the rear window is to always brush any grit or leaves from the seam above the window before lowering the roof. This is the cause of the usual mark across the half-way point of the window.
Another good dodge is to use a hood blanket of some kind. The BMW version is made of very thick felt, which provides a decent bend radius for the window, in addition to reducing con tact and polishing between adjacent area of the hood.
The problem is that it is bulky, so I designed one made from a fleecy blanket, secured by a short velroc strap above each window, with a tubular pocket to hold 4 short pieces of foam pipe lagging. It therefore folds up nicely, and also doubles as a pillow when camping!
A good way to prevent scratches on the rear window is to always brush any grit or leaves from the seam above the window before lowering the roof. This is the cause of the usual mark across the half-way point of the window.
Another good dodge is to use a hood blanket of some kind. The BMW version is made of very thick felt, which provides a decent bend radius for the window, in addition to reducing con tact and polishing between adjacent area of the hood.
The problem is that it is bulky, so I designed one made from a fleecy blanket, secured by a short velroc strap above each window, with a tubular pocket to hold 4 short pieces of foam pipe lagging. It therefore folds up nicely, and also doubles as a pillow when camping!
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We used Stormsure to to re-glue the fabric fap down. Make sure you mask around it first.
I think i you see I posted this just over 3 years ago and in the end purchased a new roof from Jack Smith and gave the old one to a member
About 6 or 7 years ago I replaced the back window. German supplier off eBay. Can't remember the name. It's branded into the bottom corner. I'll take a photo later if anyone's interested. I get the impression that it's thinner.
That window is still good but the flap of hood material won't stay under the lip around the window. That 'lip', if you know what I mean, just doesn't seem big enough. I can only get around 1mm of hood material under the rim and it just pops out again as soon as the hood moves.
Am I supposed to glue it? Surely that could damage the hood if/when I tear it back out to replace the window somewhere down the line?
What did BMW do when they originally built it? Mine wasn't glued. I just had the impression that that plastic rim was wider and overlapped more of the hood material?
That window is still good but the flap of hood material won't stay under the lip around the window. That 'lip', if you know what I mean, just doesn't seem big enough. I can only get around 1mm of hood material under the rim and it just pops out again as soon as the hood moves.
Am I supposed to glue it? Surely that could damage the hood if/when I tear it back out to replace the window somewhere down the line?
What did BMW do when they originally built it? Mine wasn't glued. I just had the impression that that plastic rim was wider and overlapped more of the hood material?
Hadn't noticed that it was an old thread.
Hadn't noticed that it was an old thread.
Im having a new one from Jack Tanners in December- is there a market for my old one?