Rebody Z3 2.8 Based Ferrari 250 Build

[MisterP007]

One last point. Total cost of the car:

Interior

£3715.52 minus Z3 parts not needed £308.89 = £3406.33 (I still have £400 to come from re-sale of other Z3 interior bits so this will reduce further in the next couple of months).

Exterior & Mechanical (Excluding Paint)

£10444.27 minus Z3 parts not needed £1360.31 = £9083.96 (I still have £350 to come from re-sale of other Z3 exterior and engine bits so this will reduce).

Paint

£1076.76 not including the compressor and gun which I will keep for future use.

Total to Date: £13567.05

The base Z3 was £2250 so if you take off the price of the sold parts and what is still due the Z3 was free!!!

I have taken out about £1000 from the equation which I have spent on items I will keep for future use: Tools, LED Floodlights, Compressor, and spray gun. I may sell them later but I have been contracted (for free of course) to blow in a couple of panels on my son's Seat Leon, SWMBO'S Merc CLK Convertible and my ML needs a bit of paint

Anyone thinking of building one of these I have a spreadsheet full of costs and links to items purchased. Give me a shout.

 

[MisterP007]

B

The dancing donkey men do not take kindly to replicas wearing their badges, they can get very nasty and best avoided if possible. I fitted "California" badges that I had CNC cut out of stainless steel.
How about a nice set of chrome wire wheels?
Greenbanks does a very nice stainless steel grill surround and stainless threshold plates for the door apertures.

Hi Steve

I saw all the Greenbank stuff, very nice but the prices are too heavy for my taste & I know the chrome wires are more original but I am not a big fan of them. (Thinking of making a version of their bonnet/sill alignment system though).

As for the Prancing Horse people, they can only get legal with a manufacturer (one of the big reasons Nubodi stopped I think), but a consumer/joe public can do whatever they like to their car and all Fezza can do is ask them to take them off. Not sure I would want to test the theory with a road trip to Maranello and Modena though. Nuts to think they feel threatened by a Plastic Replica when everybody can tell the difference.

Having said that we could both get away with it as we can just point out they never made the car we have built. As I say "the best convertible Ferrari never made!"

 

[Zag2]

Are those the dare RS alloy wheels? What size are they?

 

[DaveP]

Just caught up on this thread.

Great read and beauty of a motor. Looking forward to seeing it in the flesh one day,

Dave

 

[MisterP007]

Just caught up on this thread.

Great read and beauty of a motor. Looking forward to seeing it in the flesh one day,

Dave

Thanks Dave,

It looks even better in the metal (or in the GRP )
Where are you based?

 

[MisterP007]

Are those the dare RS alloy wheels? What size are they?

They are RS Alloys but I do not know the make as I bought them 2nd hand £350 with four new tyres!!!

Size is 17” x 7” 5x120mm holes. Cannot remember the offsets but I needed 16mm solid spacers on the front and nothing on the rear.

A cobra will have different arch depths etc. So you will need different offsets.

 

[DaveP]

Thanks Dave,

It looks even better in the metal (or in the GRP )
Where are you based?

Hey I am in the Reading area.

Loving the interior and dash. Mine is still stock beemer dash with exception of aftermarket wheel and knob.

Dave

 

[MisterP007]

Hey I am in the Reading area.

Loving the interior and dash. Mine is still stock beemer dash with exception of aftermarket wheel and knob.

Dave

As you probably read in my build, I decided to do the interior whilst awaiting the kit. Added £3000 to the build though EEK!!!

 

[MisterP007]

As you probably read in my build, I decided to do the interior whilst awaiting the kit. Added £3000 to the build though EEK!!!

Add in a few pics of your beast

 

[DaveP]

As you probably read in my build, I decided to do the interior whilst awaiting the kit. Added £3000 to the build though EEK!!!

A good investment on a 250 in my view. You could recoup the costs on resale as that model can fetch a tidy sum.

I built a Kobra and they hit a much lower ceiling on resale so need to be more frugal on the original build costs.

As to picks of mine; they can be found in my build thread found here

Rebody - Z3 to Kobra build thread

So time has come for me to change a slightly scruffy black 2001 2.2 non sport into a Kobra. This is a rebody kit made by Tribute Automotive. I bought the Zed as a donor car as the mechanicals and mot history looked strong. The body work was fine but in need of quite a bit of touching up etc. As...

zroadster.org

 

[MisterP007]

Hi all

Anyone know who the ZORG go-to person is for alarm problems?

I have the typical alarm problem - goes off for no reason 20-30 mins after being set. I have the fob in the key version.

On mine of course it could be anything as the entire car is different inside and out. As @NZ00Z3 and others have suggested. Started with:

Bonnet Sensor - pulled the plug, locked the car, 20 mins later Beep, Beep, Beep grr....

Radio Sensor - Did not know until a moment ago what this looked like, my radio comes out easily and I left a removable side-entry panel for just this reason in the leather trim so I will try taping/tying/disconnecting this sensor later today. I understand it is in parallel with the bonnet sensor making it difficult to know which is the problem, muppets!

Interior Sensors - no idea where to find these or if I even have them still. Help!

Red Alarm Button/Sensor - What is this red item - I specifically kept it (moved to between seats) just in case it was to do with the alarm but have no idea what it is, any help?

Tilt Sensor in Boot - It is there and wired in, no idea if it is working or not?

 

[jaguartvr]

There is a sensor in the left rear corner of the boot, as far back and as low as you can get. I found this well filled up with water and gave me alarm problems as you described. Drained the area and dried the sensor and no more problems.
Another thing to check are the switches on the door catches, the part that is on the B post. If you put your finger in the loop you will feel a small plastic switch which can get sticky.

 

[MisterP007]

There is a sensor in the left rear corner of the boot, as far back and as low as you can get. I found this well filled up with water and gave me alarm problems as you described. Drained the area and dried the sensor and no more problems.
Another thing to check are the switches on the door catches, the part that is on the B post. If you put your finger in the loop you will feel a small plastic switch which can get sticky.

Hi Steve

Tilt sensor in the boot is bone dry and always has been even with the new bodywork, the previous owner had it sitting in a dry garage for 7-years and hardly drove it. "Famous last words" springs to mind however so I will check it in a bit anyway.

I had not considered the door switches, I did thump the passenger one about a bit when I had the passenger door lock jam in deadlock (took a while to sort that one out!) so it could very well be that is the problem area. Bit of Silicone spray in all the door/bonnet switches and see what happens.

I am going out to fiddle with the car for a bit once I finish the last Mortgage Application I have to do today (work has gone mad since the Stamp Duty Holiday, 16-mortgages this month so far and nothing else, I usually do 5 or 6 plus some pension and investment clients).

Will let you know.

 

[Desiro]

Thanks for this, it was an absolutely brilliant read.

 

[MisterP007]

Thanks for this, it was an absolutely brilliant read.

No problem and glad you liked it.

There is a bit more to follow once I have sorted out some fiddly bits on the car. Just finished a nice perspex wind break, which I will take some pics of along with some other little details.

 

[SYMZ3]

No problem and glad you liked it.

There is a bit more to follow once I have sorted out some fiddly bits on the car. Just finished a nice perspex wind break, which I will take some pics of along with some other little details.

Great job, love the passion and well done with all the hard work. Enjoy the finished car

 

[NZ00Z3]

With your fob in the key alarm system, the alarm is controlled by the ZKE4 (General module 4) module. Fire up INPA and have a good look in the ZKE4. You'll find all the digital data points for the alarm, to see what's set (bonnet/hood, doors ect) and what's not set.

If you don't have INPA get it here: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/...tions-Experiences-Discussions-Experimentation

The Red button is the alarm indicator. It flashes when you lock/arm the alarm to tell you what's going on:

• Flashes once a second for about 20 seconds, says that an alarm switch is not correct and the alarm is not working correctly.
• Flashes once every 2 seconds for about 20 seconds, says that the alarm is set correctly.

Do you have the Z3 wiring diagrams for the English Z3's? I think these cover the alarm system wiring better than the standard USA diagrams as the English ones have the radar sensor included. You can get the English Z3 wiring diagrams from this forum's "Resources" section, right at the top of page 1. See the blue ribbon at the top of your screen to find the "Resources" section.

 

[Mint]

Wow, what a brilliant thread about a fantastic build. Been away for a week so just catching up, just read it all the way through.
Superb job, love your attention to detail, hope to see it in the flesh/metal/GRP sometime.

 

[MisterP007]

Glad you like it Mint, thanks.

 

[MisterP007]

With your fob in the key alarm system, the alarm is controlled by the ZKE4 (General module 4) module. Fire up INPA and have a good look in the ZKE4. You'll find all the digital data points for the alarm, to see what's set (bonnet/hood, doors ect) and what's not set.

If you don't have INPA get it here: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/...tions-Experiences-Discussions-Experimentation

The Red button is the alarm indicator. It flashes when you lock/arm the alarm to tell you what's going on:

• Flashes once a second for about 20 seconds, says that an alarm switch is not correct and the alarm is not working correctly.
• Flashes once every 2 seconds for about 20 seconds, says that the alarm is set correctly.

Do you have the Z3 wiring diagrams for the English Z3's? I think these cover the alarm system wiring better than the standard USA diagrams as the English ones have the radar sensor included. You can get the English Z3 wiring diagrams from this forum's "Resources" section, right at the top of page 1. See the blue ribbon at the top of your screen to find the "Resources" section.

Thanks for all that, my alarm light does nothing (I will check the bulb later).

I will take a look at the link for INPA. I do have the Haynes Manual for the Z3 but sometimes it is hard to follow and so will take a look at Resource.

Thanks