Topaz Blue Z3 2.8

[Newtricks]

I’ve fitted the new drop links and control arms - it all seemed to go back together pretty easily and smoothly (thankfully). I cleaned the taper sockets for all the ball joints with brake cleaner and put a Jack directly under each before tightening down. I’d pressed (actually pulled really) the new rubber bushes using a spring compressor and some dilute washing up liquid to lubricate them.

 

[Newtricks]

I’ve resolved the screen washers not working; I simply assumed blocked jets, but it turned out to be jets, washer body, unions and pipe work under the bonnet (behind the sound proofing) - what I hoped would be a 5 minute job turned into all morning, after dismantling and soaking in a dilute ammonia solution, rinsing thoroughly and blasting with compressed air several times they finally work properly.

 

[ktnez99]

I’ve resolved the screen washers not working; I simply assumed blocked jets, but it turned out to be jets, washer body, unions and pipe work under the bonnet (behind the sound proofing) - what I hoped would be a 5 minute job turned into all morning, after dismantling and soaking in a dilute ammonia solution, rinsing thoroughly and blasting with compressed air several times they finally work properly.

I had the same problem with the screen washer jets failing.

 

[Newtricks]

I've also noticed the petrol filler compartment fills with water - on a closer look it seems the drain hole (and presumably tubing) is full of debris too - tomorrow mornings job ahead of bleeding rear brakes......

 

[Mint]

I've also noticed the petrol filler compartment fills with water - on a closer look it seems the drain hole (and presumably tubing) is full of debris too - tomorrow mornings job ahead of bleeding rear brakes......

Strimmer line is good for cleaning out the petrol filler compartment drain...

 

[Newtricks]

I’ve finally bled the brakes (it’s taken 2 failed attempts to workout that the one way bleed valve I got from Halfords doesn’t work (the valve won’t open)), so on the third attempt I resorted to tube and jam jar - worked a treat. I think I’m ready for the MOT..........

 

[Newtricks]

I was in bright and early for an MOT, which it passed - emissions “sailed through”, brakes “spot on” - relieved is not the word. There is an advisory on the left side front brake pipe, but I will be changing both sides, at least it’s now drivable and I can tax it and finally use it. I can now take a look at the bodywork and motor on the passenger seat. Slow progress, but at least it’s progress.

I’ve been looking at replacement mirrors and am contemplating the X8R replacements - has anyone used them?

 

[Ianmc]

’ve been looking at replacement mirrors and am contemplating the X8R replacements - has anyone used them?

Yep, a good solution to corroded plinths.

 

[ktnez99]

Yep, a good solution to corroded plinths.

Oh...a pic, please!

 

[Newtricks]

Lamentable - at least that’s my description; I changed the front brakes ahead of the MOT - I wanted to put the join behind the arch liner, but in the end I didn’t - the only corrosion was at the union with the flexible hose.
I asked for a pre-MOT and also decided on a TerraClean decarbonisation. Good job I did - track rod ends too much play and would be a failure, and front brake hoses starting to crack.
Changed the track rods and front brake hoses (particularly unhappy bunny as I reckon to have checked them when I did the front brake pipes - yet another brake bleed…..).
But that’s not the end of……one of the rear discs was binding slightly, and the handbrake wasn’t applying itself properly, so I stripped and cleaned both (shout out to @Ttony for his comprehensive How to guide - invaluable).
Still not the end of! When I got home from picking it up after the pre-MOT I turned it around to reverse down the drive, parked up and went to move the other 2 cars out the way, when I returned absolutely nothing when I turned the key. A day of a. Charging the battery, b. Scanning for error codes, c. Swearing a lot to arrive at the conclusion that the starter motor has given up the ghost…..
I’ve looked through Pelican‘s How to guide which suggests that you can access from below without removing the intake manifold first - having spent a morning squirming around underneath it I can’t work it out. So unless anyone has actually changed the starter motor that way without removing the intake manifold and can provide some healthy pointers, it looks like I’m going to get acquainted with the intake manifold first…..
Honest I will post some pictures when I’m feeling better about it. Off to buy more Swarfega - I ought to have bought shares….

 

[t-tony]

Lamentable - at least that’s my description; I changed the front brakes ahead of the MOT - I wanted to put the join behind the arch liner, but in the end I didn’t - the only corrosion was at the union with the flexible hose.
I asked for a pre-MOT and also decided on a TerraClean decarbonisation. Good job I did - track rod ends too much play and would be a failure, and front brake hoses starting to crack.
Changed the track rods and front brake hoses (particularly unhappy bunny as I reckon to have checked them when I did the front brake pipes - yet another brake bleed…..).
But that’s not the end of……one of the rear discs was binding slightly, and the handbrake wasn’t applying itself properly, so I stripped and cleaned both (shout out to @Ttony for his comprehensive How to guide - invaluable).
Still not the end of! When I got home from picking it up after the pre-MOT I turned it around to reverse down the drive, parked up and went to move the other 2 cars out the way, when I returned absolutely nothing when I turned the key. A day of a. Charging the battery, b. Scanning for error codes, c. Swearing a lot to arrive at the conclusion that the starter motor has given up the ghost…..
I’ve looked through Pelican‘s How to guide which suggests that you can access from below without removing the intake manifold first - having spent a morning squirming around underneath it I can’t work it out. So unless anyone has actually changed the starter motor that way without removing the intake manifold and can provide some healthy pointers, it looks like I’m going to get acquainted with the intake manifold first…..
Honest I will post some pictures when I’m feeling better about it. Off to buy more Swarfega - I ought to have bought shares….

Glad my "How to" guide was useful, @GazHyde was a big help putting it together at the time, moving some of the pictures around to make better sense.

Tony

 

[Newtricks]

I’ve bitten the bullet and started to remove the inlet manifold - I’ve found pretty much what I’ve come to expect - odd missing nuts etc, but also found a huge split in the air intake hose, and oil in the vanos sensor when I disconnected it. Can someone tell me whether that’s a sign that the vanos seals need replacing?

 

[Newtricks]

I followed Pelicanparts how to guide to get the inlet manifold off, lots of labels on both halves of connections so that I stand a chance of putting it back on OK once the starter motor is replaced (which might be a couple of weeks or longer. I’ve found that a lot of vacuum hoses at the rear underneath the inlet manifold are cracked, so as well as new gaskets for the manifold and throttle housing, new air intake hose I’ll see if I can get replacements for those too.

I’ve also attached some pictures of the brake pipes and front brake hoses that I’ve replaced, and a couple of the trackrods I’ve replaced - bizarrely I had a problem getting new cinch clamps for the gaiters in the right size, in the end being nicely surprised at how reasonable the parts prices are. I’ve also included a picture of the 3 switches at the back of the centre console (the blanking plate for one of mine was missing), the only reason for including this was that the BMW Parts Manager said there was an error in the BMW parts diagram with an amendment having been published with the correct part number (which is; BMW centre console rear blanking plate - 51162492136 for anyone else treading a similar path).

 

[t-tony]

If you're careful removing the rack gaiter clips you can easily re use them. Failing that, cable ties work just as well.

Tony.

 

[Newtricks]

Cheers @t-tony - if only I’d realised……..! I thought about cable ties, but wasn’t sure whether they’re permissible for the MOT.

I’ve finally got the starter motor out - what a drag! Even with the inlet manifold off there’s not a lot of room around the firewall - various 3/8 wrenches and universal joint worked in the end. The dowel wouldn’t move, so I managed to drifted it enough to free it from the starter motor, but it would drift all the way out - I’m guessing I’ll need to cut it off and drill it out of the bell housing.

 

[t-tony]

What ever you do make sure the dowel is in place when you fit the new starter motor or else you may have a problem keeping the motor screws secure. It is there for a good reason. Apply a little grease to the dowel before fitting the motor.

Tony.

 

[t-tony]

Most “reconditioned” steering racks come with cable ties on the gators.

Tony.

 

[Newtricks]

I had the starter motor refurbed by Alternate (based in Batley - 01924 464100 & 07860472768) cost £60 and includes a 12 month warranty - took them a couple of days and it looks like new. Everything refitted at the weekend. Bled the brakes after fitting new hoses. Now I seem to have another problemette in that EWS (maybe!) isn’t happy. I’ll raise a thread as I suspect it may be protracted - if I thought I was treading where I‘ve never been before I‘m definitely clueless where to start diagnosing this.

 

[Newtricks]

See separate thread on the non-starting debacle. Now that that is resolved I went in for an MOT without a great deal of confidence. Passed with no advisories, it’s now also taxed.

I’ve removed the wing mirrors and masked up the X8R replacement, I’ll also take the front wings and o/s sill off for refurb. and painting. I’ll post some pictures shortly.

 

[Newtricks]

Whilst the mirrors were off and still up on axle stands I decided to get the seemingly fairly tatty wheels powder coated - the wheels were actually in good condition - purely the lacquer and not kerbing damage - in a Light Graphite rather than the original Silver. After the wheels came back they look good - prompting the decision to paint the side gills in a similar shade Graphite and refinish the mesh inside the gills in Silver.

I’ve got some Fabsil to treat the roof (when the weather is a lot better, and I can get rid of the algae in advance).

Passenger seat non-movement has proven to be a complete drag; initially I would have put money on the motor being the culprit - rusted and gummed up, having changed the non-functioning motor for an eBay warranted one (BMW ceased the motors in March this year - not that I would have run to the c£250ish it would have cost…..). Irritatingly still a non-mover. Whilst the original motor may have been toast, removing the (very wet - more anon…..) carpet revealed a corroded deteriorated feed wire - finally a functioning passenger seat, and……a heater/fan unit that wouldn’t work - yet another feed (it was working a couple of days previously). Thoroughly sick of the car fighting back every step of the way.

I suspect both the heater/fan and seat feed have both been caused by water ingress into the passenger footwell via the heater grill below the windscreen at the back of the bonnet When the drain holes have become blocked (guessing there’s 20+ years of build up in there), looks like another task to add to the list (which I wish I could say is getting shorter, but it isn’t) - I’d read a different post describing the same symptoms, so I’ll follow that approach first and keep fingers crossed for success.

During a short run out (total of 15 miles) the engine warning light came on (again), I’d replaced both inlet and exhaust cam sensors previously - fairly easy except trying to get the inlet VANOS sensor out (I took the opportunity to replace the VANOS oil seals too). This time the codes were fuelling on both bank 1 and 2 (P1188, P1189), on first starting it’s also not ticking over evenly, but strangely out on the road it runs just fine. More thread searches suggest MAF sensor, and then I came across one mentioning the same issues I have, that turned out to be the Crankcase Breather valve. On the basis the breather valve has probably never been replaced, and a kit including the hoses is a lot less than a new MAF sensor, it seems logical to do that first and bite the bullet on the MAF it it doesn’t resolve the fault codes. One thing I did notice is the engine warning light doesn’t come on until the car is well warmed up and it’s done a dozen or so mile - I have no idea whether that in itself is indicative of the right solution one way or the other. Either way, another job to add onto the list.