Definitely the lower photo of the engine.
Seemed like a good idea at the time!
- Thread starter IainP
- Start date
My 1.9 is a 1999 model with 16valves (4 valves per cylinder) 140+ HP
BMW then released a z3 with a 2.0 6 cylinder but the HP of the 2.0 6 cyl was hardly much more power than the 1.9 16v So they down powered the 1.9 to single cam 8 valve to reduce the power to give people a reason to buy the 2.0 6 cyl
Depends on how much you want to spend on a toy. It does not appear to bad for the money from your description but will need the suspension bushes doing unless already done just factor that cost in to get it how you want.
If you like a bit extra performance and torque consider a 2.8 for a cheaper toy over a 3.0 unless your lucky in your search.
If you like a bit extra performance and torque consider a 2.8 for a cheaper toy over a 3.0 unless your lucky in your search.
Thanks for the info guys, at a push I would consider the twin cam 1.9 but anything from the 2.2 up would be better, as I said in my initial intro post , I don’t need to buy right away, would rather find a nice one at reasonable price.
We’re up walking at the Hermitage pretty often, like the shops in Dunkeld too, especially the chippy! Absolutely spot on.
The 1.8 SOHC, and 1.9 DOHC, are both 1895cc, but 115/144hp. I’ve driven enough SOHC E36, I didn’t really want another. If a 6cyl it would the early 2.8 for me.
The rear arches,
Which is why I’m converting mine.
I want to do some Hillclimbs and Sprints, tight courses, fast and precise changes of direction , so for me, the 2.0 and 2.2 are ruled out. I can make the Twincam faster than both . Hopefully more nimble than all the 6 cyl’s.
* On the tracks I’ll be driving. On an open track the 2.2 and 2.8 would be quicker.*
For a Roadcar:
Heated seats would be a must.
After that, really I wouldn’t care, it would be a colour I wanted and the best condition I could find.
Put budget aside for front lollipop bushes and rear beam bushes, both likely need replaced. The fronts are dead easy, the rear’s doable without dropping anything else.
Change the thermostat. Immediately.
Feel under the seats, get your finger(s) into where the wires come through. ANY wet, Do Not Buy it!
Loads of other info on here on what to look for depending on what model you see.
If you don’t already, download an Mot app and check the history for advisories.
The 1.8 SOHC, and 1.9 DOHC, are both 1895cc, but 115/144hp. I’ve driven enough SOHC E36, I didn’t really want another. If a 6cyl it would the early 2.8 for me.
The rear arches,
Which is why I’m converting mine.
I want to do some Hillclimbs and Sprints, tight courses, fast and precise changes of direction , so for me, the 2.0 and 2.2 are ruled out. I can make the Twincam faster than both . Hopefully more nimble than all the 6 cyl’s.
* On the tracks I’ll be driving. On an open track the 2.2 and 2.8 would be quicker.*
For a Roadcar:
Heated seats would be a must.
After that, really I wouldn’t care, it would be a colour I wanted and the best condition I could find.
Put budget aside for front lollipop bushes and rear beam bushes, both likely need replaced. The fronts are dead easy, the rear’s doable without dropping anything else.
Change the thermostat. Immediately.
Feel under the seats, get your finger(s) into where the wires come through. ANY wet, Do Not Buy it!
Loads of other info on here on what to look for depending on what model you see.
If you don’t already, download an Mot app and check the history for advisories.
M44 (twin cam) is an excellent engine and significantly lighter than the 6 pots. Also, the steering rack is "quicker"; suggest drive a M44 and 2.8 before making a call. Would add that aircon is essential for me - most other extras can be retrofitted, but not the aircon without great pain!! 
In addition to the M44 Z3, we have a 6 cylinder 4 seat Z3 (actually E36 323i convertible); they are very different cars to drive engine wise. The e36 is more of a cruiser whilst the Z3 more of a traditional sportscar. Both are great cars in different ways.
In addition to the M44 Z3, we have a 6 cylinder 4 seat Z3 (actually E36 323i convertible); they are very different cars to drive engine wise. The e36 is more of a cruiser whilst the Z3 more of a traditional sportscar. Both are great cars in different ways.
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@IainP That is a great idea. Have you started the conversion yet? Guess you need rear wings, sills, rear bumper, a boot lid and some large spacers? Would be very interested in your experience of this.The rear arches,
Which is why I’m converting mine.
Thanks for all the information above Iain, the car I drove at the weekend I’m sure would be a good buy, but when I opened the bonnet and seen the 8 valve I was pretty sure it was the lower output unit and I count live with that power in a sports car.We’re up walking at the Hermitage pretty often, like the shops in Dunkeld too, especially the chippy! Absolutely spot on.
The 1.8 SOHC, and 1.9 DOHC, are both 1895cc, but 115/144hp. I’ve driven enough SOHC E36, I didn’t really want another. If a 6cyl it would the early 2.8 for me.
The rear arches,
Which is why I’m converting mine.
I want to do some Hillclimbs and Sprints, tight courses, fast and precise changes of direction , so for me, the 2.0 and 2.2 are ruled out. I can make the Twincam faster than both . Hopefully more nimble than all the 6 cyl’s.
* On the tracks I’ll be driving. On an open track the 2.2 and 2.8 would be quicker.*
For a Roadcar:
Heated seats would be a must.
After that, really I wouldn’t care, it would be a colour I wanted and the best condition I could find.
Put budget aside for front lollipop bushes and rear beam bushes, both likely need replaced. The fronts are dead easy, the rear’s doable without dropping anything else.
Change the thermostat. Immediately.
Feel under the seats, get your finger(s) into where the wires come through. ANY wet, Do Not Buy it!
Loads of other info on here on what to look for depending on what model you see.
If you don’t already, download an Mot app and check the history for advisories.
There is a guy at work who has a 2.2 that may be for sale so I’ll wait and see him when he returns to work.
“@IainP That is a great idea. Have you started the conversion yet? Guess you need rear wings, sills, rear bumper, a boot lid and some large spacers? Would be very interested in your experience of this.”
I have an early car, just needs wings, sills and a bumper, wide arms to complete it.
The wings I got from Spurs Fan, the rest picked up from eBay. If you go back a couple pages you’ll see the process, made an arse with the sills and had to repair one of the arms, but I really like the look. I have a few BBS RC’s, sometime in the future, when I figure out exactly what I want, I’ll convert to 10” 3 piece wheels and the refurbed/reinforced narrow arms I have in a box.
“
Thanks for all the information above Iain, the car I drove at the weekend I’m sure would be a good buy, but when I opened the bonnet and seen the 8 valve I was pretty sure it was the lower output unit and I count live with that power in a sports car.
There is a guy at work who has a 2.2 that may be for sale so I’ll wait and see him when he returns to work.”
My lad had two 8v’s, it’s a good engine, but I’d wanted more when I was looking for one.
I have an early car, just needs wings, sills and a bumper, wide arms to complete it.
The wings I got from Spurs Fan, the rest picked up from eBay. If you go back a couple pages you’ll see the process, made an arse with the sills and had to repair one of the arms, but I really like the look. I have a few BBS RC’s, sometime in the future, when I figure out exactly what I want, I’ll convert to 10” 3 piece wheels and the refurbed/reinforced narrow arms I have in a box.
“
Thanks for all the information above Iain, the car I drove at the weekend I’m sure would be a good buy, but when I opened the bonnet and seen the 8 valve I was pretty sure it was the lower output unit and I count live with that power in a sports car.
There is a guy at work who has a 2.2 that may be for sale so I’ll wait and see him when he returns to work.”
My lad had two 8v’s, it’s a good engine, but I’d wanted more when I was looking for one.
A while ago I asked a question about trailing arms on Wide Body. What is the difference is between narrow body arms and wide body? ie wider arms?
Thanks
The dimensions of the actual pressed arms are the same. The casting welded to that is longer, I didn’t bother measuring, I’ve seen 24/25/28mm longer quoted.
It’s often quoted the beams are different, they’re not.
THE ONLY DIFFERENCE IS THE CASTINGS.
For clarity, the shafts obviously are longer. Bearings different, or another way, what is related to the castings.
Whatever the actual length of the casting is, it makes the arm ‘wider’ by that amount, so putting extra torsional load through the pressed arms. The ‘wider’ arms have a reinforcing bar welded between them. Narrow arms don’t.
The e30 and Compact racers use reinforcements they weld in between the arms. They also insert two pieces to support the casting to the rear of the arm. Fairly easy to make if you want to do it yourself, but you need to be confident in your welding skills.
Those are both narrow arms.
I also added these.
Essentialy a dimpled H beam connecting the rear damper mount to the main body of the arm. For no other reason than giggles really.
It’s often quoted the beams are different, they’re not.
THE ONLY DIFFERENCE IS THE CASTINGS.
For clarity, the shafts obviously are longer. Bearings different, or another way, what is related to the castings.
Whatever the actual length of the casting is, it makes the arm ‘wider’ by that amount, so putting extra torsional load through the pressed arms. The ‘wider’ arms have a reinforcing bar welded between them. Narrow arms don’t.
The e30 and Compact racers use reinforcements they weld in between the arms. They also insert two pieces to support the casting to the rear of the arm. Fairly easy to make if you want to do it yourself, but you need to be confident in your welding skills.
Those are both narrow arms.
I also added these.
Essentialy a dimpled H beam connecting the rear damper mount to the main body of the arm. For no other reason than giggles really.
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The reason I asked about the wide body is that I'm about to start rebodying my pre-facelift narrow body Z3.
Assuming the driveshafts on a widebody are longer than those on a narrow body then that would mean the track width on the widebody - (and all post facelift z3?) is wider than my narrow body? In which case I may need to do something to widen my track to fill the arches
That reinforcement, on widebody arms because of the extra stress, would suggest that that reinforcement would also be necessary if the track of a narrow body z3 was widened with spacers or even wide offset wheel rims?
Assuming the driveshafts on a widebody are longer than those on a narrow body then that would mean the track width on the widebody - (and all post facelift z3?) is wider than my narrow body? In which case I may need to do something to widen my track to fill the arches
That reinforcement, on widebody arms because of the extra stress, would suggest that that reinforcement would also be necessary if the track of a narrow body z3 was widened with spacers or even wide offset wheel rims?
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Exactly why I have a lot more reinforcement than the standard wide arms, tracks put a lot more lateral load into the suspension.
The castings in the narrow arms also take a slightly smaller wheel bearing. The number most often bandied about is a 25mm difference in width per side, so that’s a pretty thick spacer. Though thicker ones are available. I don’t expect you’d be going to a really wide rear tyre for a rebody though.
The castings in the narrow arms also take a slightly smaller wheel bearing. The number most often bandied about is a 25mm difference in width per side, so that’s a pretty thick spacer. Though thicker ones are available. I don’t expect you’d be going to a really wide rear tyre for a rebody though.
I don't like spacers. I'm leaning towards retro looking steel wheels with an offset.
The Z3 M wheels would look good with the wider rear dish; guess would cost a few bob though!
I'd need to look at cost of various options.The Z3 M wheels would look good with the wider rear dish; guess would cost a few bob though!
Dropping and refurbing my rear end is work. When I plan work I always think of the cost of (my own) labour so if there's a ready furb'd rear end at a fair price then I'd maybe go for that option in which case I could go wide body arms and drv shafts.
Deep dish wheels is another possibility. I need to do a trial fit of the new body shell and stand back and look at it. No hurry.
Remember wider offset wheels will have the same leverage action as big spacers, so any bushes that are even slightly suspect will quickly become more so.
Rear beams are cheap, I bought one for £50 delivered, arms can be either silly, or cheap. Depends who’s selling them, are they looking for profit, or just rid?
Bushes are cheap, replacement is quick, blow lamp (or two), pop it out, wire brush, lube, press in the new ones.
I do have to point out, including the beam on the car, I have 3. Of the 6 bushes, 4 looked perfectly fine, 2 clearly debonded. Until I started to remove them, every single bush was knackered.
Rear beams are cheap, I bought one for £50 delivered, arms can be either silly, or cheap. Depends who’s selling them, are they looking for profit, or just rid?
Bushes are cheap, replacement is quick, blow lamp (or two), pop it out, wire brush, lube, press in the new ones.
I do have to point out, including the beam on the car, I have 3. Of the 6 bushes, 4 looked perfectly fine, 2 clearly debonded. Until I started to remove them, every single bush was knackered.
Any original bushes are going to be well past their “sell by” date. It’s got to be sensible to change them on age alone?
Tony.
Tony.
A tester would Jack the rear of the car on the jacking points until the wheels are clear of the ramp bed. Then a small pinch bar is placed in the gap between the bush housing and the plate at the bottom. Then lift the bush housing and see how far the bush lifts. If there is no gap then the bushes have failed already and as such fail the test
Tony.
Tony.