Seemed like a good idea at the time!

My bushes look like this

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I know that the poly bustes fill the whole gap between top and bottom plates but the OEM bush is about an inch smaller than the distance between top and bottom plates

I assumed that rubber rim around the bottom of the bush rests on the bottom plate and the beam rests on top of that rim. Or are you saying that that rubber rim needs to be half an inch up in the air above the bottom plate?
 
Well, my nothing to see angiogram ended up seeing rather a lot. Really rather a lot.

😂😂

Got myself banned from driving for 4 weeks, no lifting, exertion, yada, yada. Loads of tabs, and more tabs to counter the side effects of the first lot, great fun.

Soooo, not sure quite where to go with this project, my joke to a mate this car was being built to eventually see me out has actually become a possibility/probability. Build it, Scrap the Fiero? Mot it/Sell it, attack the Fiero? Dunno really.

Written to Motorsport UK enquiring if they’ll grant me a licence, still on an NHS waiting list for more tests. Which may determine things.

Anyhooo.
Car needs to be on the road for April. Sod paint, rattle canned bumpers, nothing else. Modified class is completely out, which means:
Cage is out, as are some of my suspension mods, I still plan on a bar though. I won’t be needing the sill stands I just bought. IMG_5311.webpThankfully I hadn’t welded in the receiver tubes. Scrapped the moulds I’d started for the sills, and the parts I’d started for the hardtop.
Speaking of hardtops, I was amazed no-one here, or eBay, wanted the alloy hardtop brackets, despite lots of interest. So they’re back on the car. The steel originals I’ll hang onto. Result dependant.
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I’d made one set of slot and tab pieces, to check my dimensions before a friend had a load laser cut. Gone to recycling. Fortunate the hospital visits delayed events enough I discovered nobody would want the things, before I laid out the money for 30 sets of components 🤣 So at least one good thing came from the chest pains. Also told friends I’m not doing favours for the foreseeable, can’t work for beer anyway 🥲

Of course I didn’t listen to the don’t do anything b*******s, and I’ve been fine, (I’m banned by SWIMBO from using the word ‘fine’ by the way), but the downtime has shown I need to upgrade/purchase some equipment. Now I’m back at work I’ll hit O/T hard and have the NHS pay for it. Already bought a new “noiseless” compressor, it IS quiet, though slower, but I can use it at night without annoying anyone. Picking up a s/h Tig tomorrow for alloy, already upgraded the garage with a 16Amp supply for the other Tig and Portamig. I may need either to modify, or build, a crossmember for the 6 speed, that absolutely, definitely, IS going ahead. Asap. Not allowed in Roadcars, but it’s heavier, the ratios are the same, I’ll drive to events, I’ve no interest in pots and I’ve already had a quiet word with a scrute. Parts are incoming, research an upside of the downtime.
Bought a newer spare wheel, unsure whether to have it powder coated, not a fan, or blast, and 4coats of Hammerite, definitely a fan.
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Need a tyre from Camskill, yes I could buy an e46 wheel with tyre for the same, emergency spare 20 years old? Nope, I’ll have new thanks.

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My son is as bad as me, the Mini we’ve been doing trackdays in is getting some work over the winter. I’ll be remaking those arms of the rotisserie out of box section, currently bar and it’s bending, not a lot, but it isn’t terribly inspiring. Box will be easier to turn.
Discovered a couple of repairs in the Mini floor that really weren’t very great, I’ll be teaching him how to do it properly and make them invisible. And the front end, and the boot corner, and the rear valance, and a door pillar. Was originally supposed to be a 2p size repair, now it’s on a rotisserie. Minis.
Have a Good Christmas!🎅
 
Well, my nothing to see angiogram ended up seeing rather a lot. Really rather a lot.

😂😂

Got myself banned from driving for 4 weeks, no lifting, exertion, yada, yada. Loads of tabs, and more tabs to counter the side effects of the first lot, great fun.

Soooo, not sure quite where to go with this project, my joke to a mate this car was being built to eventually see me out has actually become a possibility/probability. Build it, Scrap the Fiero? Mot it/Sell it, attack the Fiero? Dunno really.

Written to Motorsport UK enquiring if they’ll grant me a licence, still on an NHS waiting list for more tests. Which may determine things.

Anyhooo.
Car needs to be on the road for April. Sod paint, rattle canned bumpers, nothing else. Modified class is completely out, which means:
Cage is out, as are some of my suspension mods, I still plan on a bar though. I won’t be needing the sill stands I just bought. View attachment 285793Thankfully I hadn’t welded in the receiver tubes. Scrapped the moulds I’d started for the sills, and the parts I’d started for the hardtop.
Speaking of hardtops, I was amazed no-one here, or eBay, wanted the alloy hardtop brackets, despite lots of interest. So they’re back on the car. The steel originals I’ll hang onto. Result dependant.
View attachment 285795
I’d made one set of slot and tab pieces, to check my dimensions before a friend had a load laser cut. Gone to recycling. Fortunate the hospital visits delayed events enough I discovered nobody would want the things, before I laid out the money for 30 sets of components 🤣 So at least one good thing came from the chest pains. Also told friends I’m not doing favours for the foreseeable, can’t work for beer anyway 🥲

Of course I didn’t listen to the don’t do anything b*******s, and I’ve been fine, (I’m banned by SWIMBO from using the word ‘fine’ by the way), but the downtime has shown I need to upgrade/purchase some equipment. Now I’m back at work I’ll hit O/T hard and have the NHS pay for it. Already bought a new “noiseless” compressor, it IS quiet, though slower, but I can use it at night without annoying anyone. Picking up a s/h Tig tomorrow for alloy, already upgraded the garage with a 16Amp supply for the other Tig and Portamig. I may need either to modify, or build, a crossmember for the 6 speed, that absolutely, definitely, IS going ahead. Asap. Not allowed in Roadcars, but it’s heavier, the ratios are the same, I’ll drive to events, I’ve no interest in pots and I’ve already had a quiet word with a scrute. Parts are incoming, research an upside of the downtime.
Bought a newer spare wheel, unsure whether to have it powder coated, not a fan, or blast, and 4coats of Hammerite, definitely a fan.
View attachment 285799
Need a tyre from Camskill, yes I could buy an e46 wheel with tyre for the same, emergency spare 20 years old? Nope, I’ll have new thanks.

View attachment 285797
My son is as bad as me, the Mini we’ve been doing trackdays in is getting some work over the winter. I’ll be remaking those arms of the rotisserie out of box section, currently bar and it’s bending, not a lot, but it isn’t terribly inspiring. Box will be easier to turn.
Discovered a couple of repairs in the Mini floor that really weren’t very great, I’ll be teaching him how to do it properly and make them invisible. And the front end, and the boot corner, and the rear valance, and a door pillar. Was originally supposed to be a 2p size repair, now it’s on a rotisserie. Minis.
Have a Good Christmas!🎅
hope you take care of yourself mate....the cars can wait, think rest is more important ...
 
Nah, 8 weeks of rest is enough Matt, I have these
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I had no idea about 5% of the population are quite difficult/dangerous to stent, loads of risk factors.
“Why’s it nae surprise you’re in the feckin’ Special group ya pri*k!” Love Glasgow Humour! 🤣🤣

Picked up a new toy today, not done any alloy tig in 36/7 years, evening practice time incoming.
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On the way back went to see a cheap spare £50 quid diff to convert to lsd. Easy to see why it was cheap, back lash could be measured in days. Passed on that, I’ll pick one up eventually, weird, 6 months ago cheap ones were plentiful @ £75, now they’re £150. Wtf 🤬
Cut some steel for a front upper strut brace, need something to match the lower one I made. Started one before and was really unhappy with it, I have a better idea this time. I’ll take pics only if I’m happy with it.
 
Blood thinners, beta blockers and cold weather don’t mix, even with two fleece and a sweatshirt on so mostly been accumulating parts.
The hydraulic ram on the car has a bent end, I didn’t feel confident it would straighten so picked up a cheap one from BMW spares in Lochgelly. I should get a bonnet from there to replace the lumpy bumpy one when he gets round to breaking it.
Bought a clutch cover for the lightweight flywheel. M3 covers go for £200, running a part number search shows the same one is fitted to 5/7series, they go for £100.
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I need a 240mm disc for a Getrag box, there are a few options I’m working through. I need a bearing and fork, I’d rather buy a kit with those in it than a whole load of disparate parts.
Cleared, cleaned and oiled the welding bench for the first time in a year.
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The round tube is 44.45x2.64 CDS, cold drawn steel tube, to Motorsport UK spec. Over 20M of it, which my wife spotted, it received folded arms and “Hmnn, Husband”. Oops.
Since I’m banned from lifting anything heavy, I lifted the Frankenbender/hydraulic press onto the tubes, slid it up and onto the bench. Did a test bend, as I need one for measuring anyway, haven’t gotten the leverage ratio quite right as it doesn’t make a full 90 degrees. I don’t actually need the full 90, but a different ratio may make it faster and easier, I think I’ll make it bolt-on to the bottom bracket on the bottle jack rather than welded. Needs stronger springs to return it too, because it doesn’t. All a learning curve.
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Considering using the bender to form a strut brace, probably not in cds though, that’s total overkill, thin wall erw would be more than adequate.
 
On less drugs, so getting back into this properly.
I bought Pls surplus strut brace to save making my own
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Has a couple problems though, hits the coil pack before it tightens down, another incentive to finish the coil on plug conversion, so no real problem.
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This is a (slight) problem though, it hits the nut on the Bilsteins, also before the nuts tighten down. Now, I’ll be running negative camber, so that will allow it to clear, BUT I can’t adjust the camber without taking the brace off, which would make quick back to back comparisons slooooooow.
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Do I cut the center out, or not? Spacer washers for now.

Since it was a decent day I got started on the roll bar. I’ve fitted cages several times and modified a few more, but never built one from scratch. Loads of info/vids/how to’s, but it’s pretty easy to stuff it up. I made loads of measurements, then decided to make a foamboard template to triple and quadruple check the measurements.

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If you want to know how, I cut 45mm strips and used the test piece to cut 90 bends, then a scalpel and hot glue.
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I wanted it as high as possible with a working roof.
View: https://youtu.be/Qb-4sk61VLo?feature=shared

And, it does that with just a little clearance at the top, I hope.
Pulled it out and braced it,
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Now I just have to check all my measurements for the umpteenth time and bend the thing. Am I nervous? Hell yes.
 
So.
Did I get it Right First Time?
Nope.
Not at all in fact.
It would be much easier if the rain wouldn’t start every time I try to do anything, but it’s Scotland, it’s May and there’s hailstones.
Trying to bend a hoop in a garage with far, Far, Far too much stuff in it is a challenge on its own.
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All the advice is bend it further, 2-5 degrees, to account for the spring back. Except it didn’t spring back at all, so this stick was borked from the first bend. And it didn’t bend exactly where I planned.
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I adjusted better for the roof bend, but that first bend should be where that red line is. Too much excess as the first bend started much higher than planned.

Other side I got completely wrong and bent it too far, really need a level on the horizontal, as well as the angle finder on the hoop, all a learning experience though.
At least I managed to start the bend where I planned.
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More obvious in this pic how “over bent “ it is. I didn’t bother with the lower bend on that side.
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All in all, I’d call it a success, I can now get the bend to start where I want relative to the die, know how to accurately measure the angle with this setup, and more importantly, not to over bend for non existent spring back.
The Frankenbender needs a few more mod’s, unsurprising to be fair, it started off as just a press, but I’m confident the next hoop will actually be useable. Provided it stops raining long enough to get the thing outside, it’ll be so much easier to see what I’m doing. Might consider an air/hydraulic jack, I’m sure my cardiac nurse wouldn’t be happy with my 120bpm heart rate pumping the jack.
 
I have the bender stripped down so thought I’d refit the front hubs, my wife wants it off axle stands. My explanation it makes doing the rear cage easier just got the Look of Disapproval.
Could I find the new hub nuts, or the little stainless bolts I made for the dust shields? No I could not. Two hours later I’d found the spare for my sons e36, but no trace of the bags with mine. Gave up and cut another 6x A2 flange bolts.
It now has hubs, though I haven’t mentioned three of the tyres no longer hold air, I’ll just stick some sealer in for the moment as the tyres are scrap anyway.
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I also haven’t mentioned I need to drop the gearbox out to change to the smf, I’ll need to come up with some quick and dirty way of supporting the engine from underneath whilst I sort out a crossmember to the 6 speed. I won’t get away with sticking it back on stands to do that.
Considering selling the SLK and buying the cheapest Z I can find, it’s difficult transporting stuff with the roof down.
 
I’ll update this as Ive started back into it.
Again.
Sorry, this’ll jump about a bit as I try and
remember it all. It’s certainly not in anything like date order.

Things didn’t go quite to plan originally, not at all in fact, I was prescribed too many drugs really. Almost any Exertion, then stopping, or standing up, dropped my blood pressure so low I’d fall over, working on the Z kept becoming a struggle to stay conscious. I’m sure if I actually do keel over working on cars now all the neighbours will ignore me thinking “Iain’s just having problems with his blood pressure - again”. At work ( lots of stairs), I ended up lying on the floor with my legs raised so often I was close to getting my own BLS protocol. Moved a load of stuff into storage, the custom lights, most of the interior and seats, anything not mechanical really. I say moved it, my kids did, I couldn’t carry anything, never mind anything heavy, up to the loft. Took partial retirement and dropped two days a week. Cardiology were useless, my GP was great, reducing the drug loads I couldn’t cope with , without self medicating on caffeine to function.



Mainly ended up helping my son with his Mini, showed him how to properly modify and rebuild its engine, which used to be cheap . . and now isn’t. Even with discount, because I’ve used them so long, the invoices from West were substantial. Incidentally, piston spread on an A series Mini - 1.4g, BMW 3.5g.

German Engineering, . . Aye.
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Accumulated parts. Lots of parts. Such as, LSD, programmable ecu, twin ear rear cover, Gaz Gold rear coilovers, a sill, mirror bits, door panels, hood, strut reinforcements, door poppers, . , quite a lot of tools and toys.

Sold the SLK,.,. Eventually. What is it with people saying “I’ll have it” then never coming back? Did manage to get a couple trackdays in first. Driving was one of the only things completely unaffected actually, simply because my legs were extended. Other than having to stop and pee every hour, due to the immense volume of water I had to drink to keep my blood pressure up.
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30 years is the LEZ cutoff in Scotland.

So I thought buy a 1995 Z3 as a daily, only to find the UK didn’t get them until ‘97, which is no use at all. Have you see the price of ‘95 Euro Z3? Feckin hell!, €3500-4000 minimum for something with 250,000+Km. Nope. Decided on a Z4, except Cheap Z4 were all in deepest England, and I was banned from flying at the time because of all the drugs, so I bought a Cooper S. The turbo one. As you do. I did at least have the sense to buy one with every possible problem they come with, pulled the engine/box (sons did, I directed), and fixed them. Required something with a big enough load area to carry engines and, well, Stuff. And roofbars.

Like a Z4 hardtop with a broken rear window. £250 Z3 hardtop, so I could sell the good one. Oh, and a £20 Z3 bonnet that doesn’t have a surface like a golf ball. ( Courtesy of Rennie @ https://www.bmwspares-scotland.com super helpful bloke)
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As we both found out when we popped the struts, Z3 bonnets are REALLY Heavy, a composite alternative may be on the cards(eventually). I’ve quite a bit of ‘glass, I’d like to make all the panels composite further down the line. Thankfully I was off beta blockers by then, or I’d never have gotten it on the roof, never mind gotten it home.

Still wanted an e85 Z4, but all the supposedly ‘good’ ones I’ve seen are absolute crap. £2 and £3 grand cars described as mechanically excellent. Aye, except for the rattling chain, corroded subframe, rusty arches, bald tyres, leaking dampers and water logged roof motor, ( which if left floods the passenger floor and sets off the airbag light). Regular maintenance, yeah, the oil was changed every 5 years. And what is it with replacing the rear box with a bit of straight pipe? Shonkily stick welded on by Stevie Wonder too. They’re cheap, use a stainless box ffs. The passenger airbag needs recoded/ occupancy sensor needs replaced-.- No, they don’t, the passenger side is a swimming pool from said flooded roof motor. So the entire interior needs removed to dry it out, yada, yada. I’ll likely end up keeping the hateful poc Mini ( though it has heated seats) to carry stuff, since in addition to the bigger bore M44, I now have a (another) long term project on the go, BMW K1100 head on a 1275 A series block, which needs a full rebuild. And my lads bought a ‘64 Mini to put it in. Or, I could buy a van I could sleep in and can tow a trailer with the Z on it. Sure SWIMBO would love that.
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Stripped the spare engine, long story short, BMW pistons/rods are rubbish, Honda ones aren’t, the new engine is getting Honda K24 pistons and Maxspeeding rods. The crank has been balanced and matched to the lightweight flywheel. BMW engines aren’t balanced at all, just thrown together, which is why M44 are described as lumpy. I’ll put the full details in my M44 modifying thread when I get the time.

I have an amr500 supercharger, possibly converting it to electric drive, that’s long term, more on that when/if I get it to work. ( And if I’m still alive, -.-. that’s not a joke.) That’s back burner’d until I build the new engine, there’s quite a bit work involved in that.

I looked at converting the manifold flange using V10 throttle bodies, it could be done simply by stacking some alloy plate but I was worried the throttle bore was a little excessive since I can’t find the diesel crank required to get over 2L. ( Not in the UK, though I can get one from Lithuania if I part with £450+ carriage + taxes . . Err, No)
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So I tried Alfa Dellorto’s. That would also work by stacking, but it was going to be a lot bulkier than I’d like. The throttle linkage was going to be a right pain too since they’re off an opposed engine.
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At that point a set of 40mm short Jenvey appeared on the bay, with long carbon ram pipes, at a ‘those can’t possibly be that cheap’ price. But they were. For once it all came together perfectly, as www.dbilas.com had an offer on an M44 manifold at the time. Thanks for that. End cutter in the drill press to convert four of the studs to bolts to match the Jenvey, job done.
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They’re so short there’s no way to run studs both sides. I may polish and anodise the manifold for a laugh. Need to make a back plate ( which has to have a cutout to clear the linkage, again, because they’re so short), and an airbox. The airbox/plenum is just moulding, I can do that sort of stuff in my sleep. Just have to build it capable of withstanding forced induction, in case I live long enough to go that route, pointless moulding that twice. Moulding is fairly simple if you think about it a bit, follow some basic principles and put split lines where you have undercuts. The thing that gets most people in trouble is your buck, the surface finish must be perfect. Even a tiny little pinhole, or scratch, never mind anything else, transfers to the mould, which transfers to your part, which you then have to fix. Fine if it’s being painted, though it’s just extra work, not so much if it’s not. You’ll often hear “ takes as long to make a bad mould, as a good one”. That’s quite funny really, it only comes from people who have never actually made a buck, a mould, then a useable part from that mould. It is I suppose technically true if only counting the actual mould construction time, but poor quality parts are much more time consuming to fix than a decent buck to mould from in the first place.

A friend asked in early ‘25 if I could make him hardtop brackets, so dug out my old patterns and had some plasma cut locally (Inveralmond, Perth). I won’t be using those folk again though, most abysmal plasma cutting I’ve ever seen. Worse , I didn’t notice for weeks, mix of busy and not feeling great ( I was on beta blockers, bp meds and arterial dilators at the time, fine sitting down, awful standing up). Anyway, welded a couple up and we quickly found the little alloy turrets from Ali express/ebay/SCAM DON’T CLICK don’t stay locked if a Z3 goes up a farm track daily. The turrets need trimmed anyway if the brackets are made in original 5mm steel, I suspect if we’d dropped to more available 4mm they wouldn’t. But I expect BMW did FEA and used 5mm for a reason. The turrets are actually for e36/46 Cabrio, no-one makes the smaller Z3 specific turrets, and we surmise it’s the different lubricity of the alloy V steel originals that causes the problem. We made four sets, it was supposed to be ten so we could put them out Really Cheap, but most of the brackets were unusable. Another long story short, they’re now each being trialed on my mates Z up and down his farm track, which isn’t local, for a few weeks each. And modified until they stay locked, it’s only minor filing and we’re pretty sure most cars would be fine, it’s just paranoia. But, not selling anything that’s not 100%, even cheaply just to get rid of them, we certainly won’t break even, . . they have to be right. In any event that’s all been delayed by various things, distance/work/family/illness/weather etc. inc 6 foot snow drifts at his place. With his hardtop coming off now he’s not snowed in it’ll be further delayed.

Off the last of the active drugs from the end of ‘25 with no ill effects, I no longer have to drink 2L by 10am, or, have a quadruple espresso to get my blood pressure high enough to climb stairs at work. Decaff, which I’m supposed to drink is awful, I now understand why all the dacaff’ers dilute it with lots of milk, sugar, syrups, etc, decaff dishwater is not a patch on black Yirgacheffe.

Speaking with a different cardiologist in January I received “since you don’t need the drugs and have no chest pain, just go and do what you want”. So I fully intend to. I can still peg out at any time, but F** it. A little to and fro with MUK and I now have a Competition Licence, Woo Hoo. I hope to get at least 3-4 Sprints or Hillclimbs in this year, unlikely to be in the Z3 though, I think I’d rather just wait until I have the new engine built.
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First off was junking the 14kg of yacht ballast from the rear bumper, I have no need of that. I want to revert to fitting the sill stands I never got round to reselling, which necessitates a center rear jack point, easiest way to do that is a 2” receiver that can double up as a cargo carrier. My little ali jack will reach the diff, but I’ll be there all day jacking the thing up, there’s no travel on the handle because the bumper gets it the way.
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Why do I need a cargo carrier? To carry wheels. I don’t have a car trailer, or something capable of towing said trailer with a Z3 on it. My V5 has no towing capacity listed, so I can’t legally tow a trailer with wheels in it. Would it matter? Would I be stopped? A car with a cage, number panels and full harness seats, of course it’ll be stopped. Been there, done that. So, 60x40 dimpled box incoming. (Except it’s not dimpled as the hydraulic pump failed. ) 5mm plate horseshoe inserts, some angle, replace the 8mm bolts with 10mm, 12mm plate for the drop bar, mig and tig welded, 12mm bolts through the bar, plate and bulkhead, with crush sleeves, 4mm angle reinforcement for the bulkhead and boot floor inside, welded, and a 12mm bolt into 4mm u channel welded to the plate. 10.9 fasteners for the receiver and boot floor. It’s not going to fall off, or distort, I can bounce on 50mm bar. I have an insert for a hi- lift, another for my ali “Race” jack, and started an insert for a cargo carrier to carry four wheels. Yes, I could carry my great big floor jack and use the diff, but it’s too heavy and bulky. Why the reflective tape? To try and prevent brainless idiots, i.e. Me, definitely ME, walking into it.
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The sill stands have 25mm pins, they insert into 25mm i.d. thick wall seamless tube. To plan those out I made Q&D fibreglass forms of the sill corners. Why? Because 2 layers of cured glass fabric is translucent, it’s easier to plan out where the tube will insert into the inner sill. That makes it easy to figure out where reinforcements need to go, and to put an accurate hole on the steel cover sill so the end result is neat. I have a pair of brand new sills, but I’ll rescue the old one I have, the one I bought from Rennie @bmwspares and use those in the first instance.
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That idea quickly went tits up, worked at the rear, BUT, the inner sill at the front doesn’t extend far enough to hit the flat point on the outer sill. The tube is going to exit on the slope of the sill and looks positively unsightly. Worse, I hit a reinforcement inside the sill, so I need to relocate 8mm higher. I’m contemplating cutting the end off the sill so I can weld the tube to the reinforcement panel, repairing the sill end and reprofiling the outer sill so the tube exits on flat metal. It may look weird. Fun and games.
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couldn’t get my tube bender to work quite as well as I wanted. It would bend, it was repeatable but it took a lot of effort, more than it should I think. Certainly not what you want when on heart meds anyway. I’m pretty sure the angle of the ram is off from ideal, it was originally intended as a hydraulic press. It’s also bulky, and not as stable as I’d like. Sooooo,.,., since I couldn’t really do much else at that time, I looked at all the versions, downloaded pictures and attempted to scale them, plasma cut some steel myself and welded it into an actual bender. I’ve made some minor errors, because I’m an idiot who tends to overthink things, but it works better with less effort, so as soon as I get some time I’ll get on with rollbar version 3, hopefully eventually a full cage. Provided I live long enough I really fancy going into the Modified class at some point and that requires a six point cage.
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When I reinforced the trailing arms I (probably) went a little overboard bracing the damper mount, so when a pair of full coilover Gaz Gold adjustable dampers appeared on eBay, I grabbed them.
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If you’re wondering why go to the trouble of rear coilovers, apart from the fact the Gaz are rebuildable, it’s a simple way of changing the handling. e.g.

Simplistically, (very).

Raising the rear increases tendency to oversteer, or reduces understeer.

Softer rear spring increases tendency to oversteer, or reduces understeer.

(And yes I could just use the adjustable platforms with the lowering springs I’d already fitted, BUT, I can’t change those springs without getting them custom wound. Expensive, Very. Coilover springs are cheap.)

Coupled with the stiffer rear arb, I have multiple avenues to alter/tune the handling, that’s not taking into account changes to the damping/front height/springs/ camber F&R/tyre pressures/tyre & wheel widths/front arb diameter, I have a 25.5mm bar to replace the standard 23 and I’ll add brackets to make to make it 5 point adjustable.

I sold some of my BBS RC041/42’s, I have a pair of 7.5” 41’s and spare ‘42 centres left, so at some point I need to decide what width/offset I want to run at the rear and order the requisite SRR inner/outer lips. Just as well I kept my reinforced 1.9 arms, which provides offset/width options. That’s not pressing, I have the 16”s, a staggered set of Style 68 17”, even a staggered set of 18’s.

Now.

If only it would stop raining, . . I’m back to being that one neighbour, I think I should have bought a bigger gazebo though. Several panels need repainted, as well as the blue bumpers and bonnet. I quite like the blue of the bonnet, and the purple of the bumper, so do I paint the car blue or purple? Dunno, had several silver cars, only dark blue car was a deep navy, and over 20 years ago.
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This rear spoiler is doing my nut in, I’m struggling for space, I’ve marked and had to re-prime it twice now, it’s getting thrown onto the boot to get it out of the bloody road. No idea where the end caps are, probably buried under the Z4 hardtop, which I should really make a rear window for and sell on, now that I’m no longer searching for an e85.

The 6 speed Getrag cleaned up nicely, I hadn’t intended painting it but I was cleaning some alloy parts with phosphoric acid and thought Feck it. Cleaned, acid etched, etch primed and painted, now I have to try not to scratch the daylights out of it during test fitting.
IMG_7862.jpegIMG_7863.jpeg

A 3.91 crown wheel and pinion came off the bay, that should give better acceleration and still drop the revs slightly in 6th, a good compromise. Started fitting that to the Blackline LSD.

Don’t message me about the 8.8 bolts, they’re only there to hold the crown wheel in place as it cools, it was heated to slip over the diff. They’ll be changed. I have a full set of bearings and bits, I’ll leave it at that until the sill stands are fitted and I remove the original diff. I’ll also post all the bearing and seal numbers when I get to that stage.

These reinforcements fit well, I’ve removed the -ve post as I’ve no need of that ( the car will have an Anderson plug at the rear). The mounts for the coil pack will go, I’m going to coil on plug. Undecided whether to mig or tig them, probably tig, I need the practice, I have a lot of tig work required for the K head conversion, easiest to dry deck it and run external oil and water feeds.
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Some pics won’t upload, not quite sure why.



And after all that, this arrived Thursday. One of Copart’s finest Cat N’s.
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Needs a headlight, everything else is fixable.
 
I’ll update this as Ive started back into it.
Again.
Sorry, this’ll jump about a bit as I try and
remember it all. It’s certainly not in anything like date order.

Things didn’t go quite to plan originally, not at all in fact, I was prescribed too many drugs really. Almost any Exertion, then stopping, or standing up, dropped my blood pressure so low I’d fall over, working on the Z kept becoming a struggle to stay conscious. I’m sure if I actually do keel over working on cars now all the neighbours will ignore me thinking “Iain’s just having problems with his blood pressure - again”. At work ( lots of stairs), I ended up lying on the floor with my legs raised so often I was close to getting my own BLS protocol. Moved a load of stuff into storage, the custom lights, most of the interior and seats, anything not mechanical really. I say moved it, my kids did, I couldn’t carry anything, never mind anything heavy, up to the loft. Took partial retirement and dropped two days a week. Cardiology were useless, my GP was great, reducing the drug loads I couldn’t cope with , without self medicating on caffeine to function.



Mainly ended up helping my son with his Mini, showed him how to properly modify and rebuild its engine, which used to be cheap . . and now isn’t. Even with discount, because I’ve used them so long, the invoices from West were substantial. Incidentally, piston spread on an A series Mini - 1.4g, BMW 3.5g.

German Engineering, . . Aye.
View attachment 362135

Accumulated parts. Lots of parts. Such as, LSD, programmable ecu, twin ear rear cover, Gaz Gold rear coilovers, a sill, mirror bits, door panels, hood, strut reinforcements, door poppers, . , quite a lot of tools and toys.

Sold the SLK,.,. Eventually. What is it with people saying “I’ll have it” then never coming back? Did manage to get a couple trackdays in first. Driving was one of the only things completely unaffected actually, simply because my legs were extended. Other than having to stop and pee every hour, due to the immense volume of water I had to drink to keep my blood pressure up.
View attachment 362137


30 years is the LEZ cutoff in Scotland.

So I thought buy a 1995 Z3 as a daily, only to find the UK didn’t get them until ‘97, which is no use at all. Have you see the price of ‘95 Euro Z3? Feckin hell!, €3500-4000 minimum for something with 250,000+Km. Nope. Decided on a Z4, except Cheap Z4 were all in deepest England, and I was banned from flying at the time because of all the drugs, so I bought a Cooper S. The turbo one. As you do. I did at least have the sense to buy one with every possible problem they come with, pulled the engine/box (sons did, I directed), and fixed them. Required something with a big enough load area to carry engines and, well, Stuff. And roofbars.

Like a Z4 hardtop with a broken rear window. £250 Z3 hardtop, so I could sell the good one. Oh, and a £20 Z3 bonnet that doesn’t have a surface like a golf ball. ( Courtesy of Rennie @ https://www.bmwspares-scotland.com super helpful bloke)
View attachment 362139
As we both found out when we popped the struts, Z3 bonnets are REALLY Heavy, a composite alternative may be on the cards(eventually). I’ve quite a bit of ‘glass, I’d like to make all the panels composite further down the line. Thankfully I was off beta blockers by then, or I’d never have gotten it on the roof, never mind gotten it home.

Still wanted an e85 Z4, but all the supposedly ‘good’ ones I’ve seen are absolute crap. £2 and £3 grand cars described as mechanically excellent. Aye, except for the rattling chain, corroded subframe, rusty arches, bald tyres, leaking dampers and water logged roof motor, ( which if left floods the passenger floor and sets off the airbag light). Regular maintenance, yeah, the oil was changed every 5 years. And what is it with replacing the rear box with a bit of straight pipe? Shonkily stick welded on by Stevie Wonder too. They’re cheap, use a stainless box ffs. The passenger airbag needs recoded/ occupancy sensor needs replaced-.- No, they don’t, the passenger side is a swimming pool from said flooded roof motor. So the entire interior needs removed to dry it out, yada, yada. I’ll likely end up keeping the hateful poc Mini ( though it has heated seats) to carry stuff, since in addition to the bigger bore M44, I now have a (another) long term project on the go, BMW K1100 head on a 1275 A series block, which needs a full rebuild. And my lads bought a ‘64 Mini to put it in. Or, I could buy a van I could sleep in and can tow a trailer with the Z on it. Sure SWIMBO would love that.
View attachment 362141
I’ll update this as Ive started back into it.
Again.
Sorry, this’ll jump about a bit as I try and
remember it all. It’s certainly not in anything like date order.

Things didn’t go quite to plan originally, not at all in fact, I was prescribed too many drugs really. Almost any Exertion, then stopping, or standing up, dropped my blood pressure so low I’d fall over, working on the Z kept becoming a struggle to stay conscious. I’m sure if I actually do keel over working on cars now all the neighbours will ignore me thinking “Iain’s just having problems with his blood pressure - again”. At work ( lots of stairs), I ended up lying on the floor with my legs raised so often I was close to getting my own BLS protocol. Moved a load of stuff into storage, the custom lights, most of the interior and seats, anything not mechanical really. I say moved it, my kids did, I couldn’t carry anything, never mind anything heavy, up to the loft. Took partial retirement and dropped two days a week. Cardiology were useless, my GP was great, reducing the drug loads I couldn’t cope with , without self medicating on caffeine to function.



Mainly ended up helping my son with his Mini, showed him how to properly modify and rebuild its engine, which used to be cheap . . and now isn’t. Even with discount, because I’ve used them so long, the invoices from West were substantial. Incidentally, piston spread on an A series Mini - 1.4g, BMW 3.5g.

German Engineering, . . Aye.
View attachment 362135

Accumulated parts. Lots of parts. Such as, LSD, programmable ecu, twin ear rear cover, Gaz Gold rear coilovers, a sill, mirror bits, door panels, hood, strut reinforcements, door poppers, . , quite a lot of tools and toys.

Sold the SLK,.,. Eventually. What is it with people saying “I’ll have it” then never coming back? Did manage to get a couple trackdays in first. Driving was one of the only things completely unaffected actually, simply because my legs were extended. Other than having to stop and pee every hour, due to the immense volume of water I had to drink to keep my blood pressure up.
View attachment 362137


30 years is the LEZ cutoff in Scotland.

So I thought buy a 1995 Z3 as a daily, only to find the UK didn’t get them until ‘97, which is no use at all. Have you see the price of ‘95 Euro Z3? Feckin hell!, €3500-4000 minimum for something with 250,000+Km. Nope. Decided on a Z4, except Cheap Z4 were all in deepest England, and I was banned from flying at the time because of all the drugs, so I bought a Cooper S. The turbo one. As you do. I did at least have the sense to buy one with every possible problem they come with, pulled the engine/box (sons did, I directed), and fixed them. Required something with a big enough load area to carry engines and, well, Stuff. And roofbars.

Like a Z4 hardtop with a broken rear window. £250 Z3 hardtop, so I could sell the good one. Oh, and a £20 Z3 bonnet that doesn’t have a surface like a golf ball. ( Courtesy of Rennie @ https://www.bmwspares-scotland.com super helpful bloke)
View attachment 362139
As we both found out when we popped the struts, Z3 bonnets are REALLY Heavy, a composite alternative may be on the cards(eventually). I’ve quite a bit of ‘glass, I’d like to make all the panels composite further down the line. Thankfully I was off beta blockers by then, or I’d never have gotten it on the roof, never mind gotten it home.

Still wanted an e85 Z4, but all the supposedly ‘good’ ones I’ve seen are absolute crap. £2 and £3 grand cars described as mechanically excellent. Aye, except for the rattling chain, corroded subframe, rusty arches, bald tyres, leaking dampers and water logged roof motor, ( which if left floods the passenger floor and sets off the airbag light). Regular maintenance, yeah, the oil was changed every 5 years. And what is it with replacing the rear box with a bit of straight pipe? Shonkily stick welded on by Stevie Wonder too. They’re cheap, use a stainless box ffs. The passenger airbag needs recoded/ occupancy sensor needs replaced-.- No, they don’t, the passenger side is a swimming pool from said flooded roof motor. So the entire interior needs removed to dry it out, yada, yada. I’ll likely end up keeping the hateful poc Mini ( though it has heated seats) to carry stuff, since in addition to the bigger bore M44, I now have a (another) long term project on the go, BMW K1100 head on a 1275 A series block, which needs a full rebuild. And my lads bought a ‘64 Mini to put it in. Or, I could buy a van I could sleep in and can tow a trailer with the Z on it. Sure SWIMBO would love that.
View attachment 362141
Great to see you back Iain.so sorry to hear the health issues...looks like we've got some reading to do !
 
Minis! Bloody hell.

That looks like a 12G295 (998 Cooper) head although it's been a long time since I last saw one. I cut my teeth on these and built a couple from shells in the eighties. First was a 1959 shell that was originally one of the Abingdon built works cars, not that I gave a toss as I built it into a tartan red/white Cooper with Cosmic wheels, the correct grille/badges/trim and an 1100 Clubman engine/box with a well skimmed '295 head, LCB+RC40 zorst and two SU's from an MG1100. It went well enough to thoroughly test those horrible little 7 inch Cooper disc brakes, even with a servo. I bought an absolutely knackered E registered Cooper for the V5 and a few bits of trim, those skinny front brakes and threw the rest away.
The '59 and early 1960 shells were made from thicker steel and had the infamous leaking one piece floorpan with outer sills and was both stiffer and a bit lighter than later ones. It was utterly rust free and cost me £30.
I think the whole car cost me £800 in 1985 with a decent paint job.
The 970 Cooper S I restored five years later was not much better and cost a lot more. £6000 all in including buying it for £1500.
The price of Minis is just insane now. They're just not worth the money to me so my Mini days are well and truly over. The fact that you can't buy proper BL quality new parts (and they were good), and that so much aftermarket stuff is pure rubbish doesn't help.
 
Great to see you back Iain.so sorry to hear the health issues...looks like we've got some reading to do !
Not even half of it Matt, there was an MGB Gt for a few months until we lost the storage.
My new epithet when asked how I’m doing is variations on “still above ground, can’t complain”
😂😂
 
Minis! Bloody hell.

That looks like a 12G295 (998 Cooper) head although it's been a long time since I last saw one. I cut my teeth on these and built a couple from shells in the eighties. First was a 1959 shell that was originally one of the Abingdon built works cars, not that I gave a toss as I built it into a tartan red/white Cooper with Cosmic wheels, the correct grille/badges/trim and an 1100 Clubman engine/box with a well skimmed '295 head, LCB+RC40 zorst and two SU's from an MG1100. It went well enough to thoroughly test those horrible little 7 inch Cooper disc brakes, even with a servo. I bought an absolutely knackered E registered Cooper for the V5 and a few bits of trim, those skinny front brakes and threw the rest away.
The '59 and early 1960 shells were made from thicker steel and had the infamous leaking one piece floorpan with outer sills and was both stiffer and a bit lighter than later ones. It was utterly rust free and cost me £30.
I think the whole car cost me £800 in 1985 with a decent paint job.
The 970 Cooper S I restored five years later was not much better and cost a lot more. £6000 all in including buying it for £1500.
The price of Minis is just insane now. They're just not worth the money to me so my Mini days are well and truly over. The fact that you can't buy proper BL quality new parts (and they were good), and that so much aftermarket stuff is pure rubbish doesn't help.

Yeah its an old Cooper head, had to have new unleaded seats, guides and valves, some light porting, back cut valves, matched chambers with no2 0.5 point less compression. + 60 thou, crank ground and balanced to the flywheel and clutch, pistons and rods balanced, center main strap, better cam and timed in. Twin Su’s, lower thermostat, AFR gauge, RC40 with Maniflow manifolds and megaphone ( I want to replace that with the biggest center box I can get in there).
It’s taken a bit to get it running properly, but it was over 2 seconds faster on a trackday Sunday.
2fc88aea-3e40-4bb5-acb7-76e904e220a9.webp
IMG_8018.webp
View: https://youtu.be/vosYnQLh5W8?si=w_RZXkgQyvDGVu-S
 
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