MOT

[andyglym]

Forgot to tell you all mine passed last week with no advisories. Never nervous as it's worth knowing if there's something amiss.
Rha, Roy.

 

[t-tony]

Forgot to tell you all mine passed last week with no advisories. Never nervous as it's worth knowing if there's something amiss.
Rha, Roy.

Strange that, so did mine ...........................

But only because it should've.

Tony.

 

[Faheem]

Not sure which items you would consider ridiculous Fahemm, such things as tread depth and headlight alignment are things which are measured by "machine" so it's not down to the tester's discretion. Valve stems which are or have been left "seriously misaligned" can, and do, fail and deflate a tyre in an instant, not something that you would want to happen even at low speed.
I agree some some testers do abuse the system in their favour but please don't tar us all with the same brush.

Tony.

Before the MOT, I knew the ball joints were going to be an issue - both o/s and n/s. I asked them how much it would be to replace the ball joints, they quoted me a £100 PER BALL JOINT?!

I just purchased two new febi control arms with ball joints pre installed and fitted them myself - for a total cost of £120 for both arms (traders discount).

Don't you think that £20 for a valve stem is a bit steep?

The total bill for the MOT and all 'repairs' came to £400 - and all they did was change the valve stems on the rear tyres, fit two pirelli tyres up front and pour some stop leak into the power steering reservoir. Absolutely disgusted by the amount I had to pay. And I'm still struggling to get my head round how they managed to charge me that much?

 

[Rha]

Strange that, so did mine ...........................
View attachment 38813
But only because it should've.
View attachment 38814

Tony.

So it should too.
That's the only time I've seen mine in over a week and it's going to the Z Fest on Sunday and with all the work I've got on at the moment I'll be lucky to get it washed before we go.

Roy.

 

[t-tony]

So it should too.
That's the only time I've seen mine in over a week and it's going to the Z Fest on Sunday and with all the work I've got on at the moment I'll be lucky to get it washed before we go.

Roy.

Don't worry mate, you can park next to mine, make the 'orrible old Z4 look good.

Tony.

 

[Russell O]

Forgot to tell you all mine passed last week with no advisories. Never nervous as it's worth knowing if there's something amiss.
Rha, Roy.

Mine too last week although wasn't due until the 13th.
Advisory on one rear tyre and flasher bulb discoloured..

Cheap MOT as we all know it can cost hundreds.

 

[t-tony]

Before the MOT, I knew the ball joints were going to be an issue - both o/s and n/s. I asked them how much it would be to replace the ball joints, they quoted me a £100 PER BALL JOINT?!

I just purchased two new febi control arms with ball joints pre installed and fitted them myself - for a total cost of £120 for both arms (traders discount).

Don't you think that £20 for a valve stem is a bit steep?

The total bill for the MOT and all 'repairs' came to £400 - and all they did was change the valve stems on the rear tyres, fit two pirelli tyres up front and pour some stop leak into the power steering reservoir. Absolutely disgusted by the amount I had to pay. And I'm still struggling to get my head round how they managed to charge me that much?

The charge for a new valve isn't that bad really, although it seems a lot. At work a puncture repair on a 16" wheel would cost around £15. You have to remove the wheel, then the tyre to fit a new valve so inc. a new valve, no it's about right. The cost to supply and fit two lower suspension arms is maybe a little high but don't forget that should also include an alignment check ( £25 at work). You have to understand that a business has to cover all overheads wages, etc etc. and show a profit on parts purchased.
I know where you're coming from, I sometimes get shocked by prices quoted, but, that's partly because of a biased view the same as you have, because you have the ability to do it yourself mate. Best thing you can do, is what you've been doing, do as much as you can yourself.
Don't forget you have 10 working days (2 weeks) to get a car back for a FREE re-test.

Tony.

 

[Russell O]

Before the MOT, I knew the ball joints were going to be an issue - both o/s and n/s. I asked them how much it would be to replace the ball joints, they quoted me a £100 PER BALL JOINT?!

I just purchased two new febi control arms with ball joints pre installed and fitted them myself - for a total cost of £120 for both arms (traders discount).

Don't you think that £20 for a valve stem is a bit steep?

The total bill for the MOT and all 'repairs' came to £400 - and all they did was change the valve stems on the rear tyres, fit two pirelli tyres up front and pour some stop leak into the power steering reservoir. Absolutely disgusted by the amount I had to pay. And I'm still struggling to get my head round how they managed to charge me that much?

Did you not get a quote before agreeing to the work?

 

[t-tony]

Mine too last week although wasn't due until the 13th.
Advisory on one rear tyre and flasher bulb discoloured..

Cheap MOT as we all know it can cost hundreds.

That's a reason why I distrust "Cut price" M.O.T.'s, it's human nature that someone will want to recover the lost profit on the cost of a test.
We used to charge full price for tests, but recently we now charge £39.95 a 30% drop in cost,. Do you think that has had any affect on the way I test cars? No, not a f***ing chance.

Tony.

 

[Rha]

Faheem once your Z has undergone a few inspections and repairs you'll find you'll be adle to keep up the maintenance between MOTs at a reasonable cost and therefore reliabily will increase while costs decrease, MOTs will then be just a chance to see if anything has been missed. You'll need to find a good garage that you can trust.
Most of us have been there and now have good used examples of Zs, it not easy but worth it in the end. The longer you own the Z the easier it becomes.

Rha,Roy.

 

[Faheem]

The charge for a new valve isn't that bad really, although it seems a lot. At work a puncture repair on a 16" wheel would cost around £15. You have to remove the wheel, then the tyre to fit a new valve so inc. a new valve, no it's about right. The cost to supply and fit two lower suspension arms is maybe a little high but don't forget that should also include an alignment check ( £25 at work). You have to understand that a business has to cover all overheads wages, etc etc. and show a profit on parts purchased.
I know where you're coming from, I sometimes get shocked by prices quoted, but, that's partly because of a biased view the same as you have, because you have the ability to do it yourself mate. Best thing you can do, is what you've been doing, do as much as you can yourself.
Don't forget you have 10 working days (2 weeks) to get a car back for a FREE re-test.

Tony.

Very true, the bloke that owns the place is actually a very good friend of mine - just not so much when I give him my car to repair. They specialise in old classic cars. It's just I've seen so much variety in quotes - I know garages that would install a control arm for £20 a side - but I would never leave my beloved Zed with them

A few weeks ago I was short for time and I needed a tensioner and its belt to be replaced on my White Z3 - I gave it to them - after they did the repair they charged me £160????!?!?!?!?! The reason I keep going back there is because of the quality of work. I know that despite the costs and despite how much they will rip me off, the work carried out won't be done to a sub-standard level.

Anyway, I'll shut up now.

 

[Russell O]

That's a reason why I distrust "Cut price" M.O.T.'s, it's human nature that someone will want to recover the lost profit on the cost of a test.
We used to charge full price for tests, but recently we now charge £39.95 a 30% drop in cost,. Do you think that has had any affect on the way I test cars? No, not a f***ing chance.

Tony.

Agree Tony. They don't work for nothing.
Personally I only ever use reputable good garage scheme places.
Would rather know what's up with my car too so it can be sorted and safe to use.
Mine was £43.

 

[andyglym]

We use a local village garage/MOT tester for our cars, great value and no issues. The owner and 3 mechanics are more than aware of the value (non monetary) of my Zed, they look after it well and advise me well on any works needed.

 

[t-tony]

Very true, the bloke that owns the place is actually a very good friend of mine - just not so much when I give him my car to repair. They specialise in old classic cars. It's just I've seen so much variety in quotes - I know garages that would install a control arm for £20 a side - but I would never leave my beloved Zed with them

A few weeks ago I was short for time and I needed a tensioner and its belt to be replaced on my White Z3 - I gave it to them - after they did the repair they charged me £160????!?!?!?!?! The reason I keep going back there is because of the quality of work. I know that despite the costs and despite how much they will rip me off, the work carried out won't be done to a sub-standard level.

Anyway, I'll shut up now.

Well mate, peace of mind knowing that work will at a good standard is worth a lot. If there's anything you need advice on or help with shout up.

Tony.

 

[Faheem]

Faheem once your Z has undergone a few inspections and repairs you'll find you'll be adle to keep up the maintenance between MOTs at a reasonable cost and therefore reliabily will increase while costs decrease, MOTs will then be just a chance to see if anything has been missed. You'll need to find a good garage that you can trust.
Most of us have been there and now have good used examples of Zs, it not easy but worth it in the end. The longer you own the Z the easier it becomes.

Rha,Roy.

Yes - this is true, I try and do most of the work myself to avoid paying hefty labour costs. I do have a few problems I cannot diagnose - mainly a very intermittent rear rattle - I hope that someone can tell me what the cause is at ZedFest though

I've got these obsession with getting my car to a factory new level which means that I don't ever see myself not spending ridiculous amounts of money on my car. I've got a full body respray lined up - followed by seat and steering wheel refurbishment (slight cracking on the seats -- driving me nuts). Then all the rear suspension bits are getting replaced - then the clutch - even though it isn't slipping yet and then all the cooling components in the car - water pump, thermostat, hoses, radiator etc. If I didn't have to pay a ridiculous amount on the insurance this would all have been done a year ago when I first got the car

 

[Faheem]

Did you not get a quote before agreeing to the work?

No he has a tendency to finish all the work on the car without telling me how much the bill will be.

When I got the car I went to him with a squeaking noise that would occur everytime I was decelerating - turned out to be a corroded spring or something - it went away when I pulled on the handbrake lightly. Anyway, I gave the car to him to get that fixed - and just that...

He decided that he would replace all the brake lines in the car and gave me a bill of £700 at the end.

 

[t-tony]

No he has a tendency to finish all the work on the car without telling me how much the bill will be.

When I got the car I went to him with a squeaking noise that would occur everytime I was decelerating - turned out to be a corroded spring or something - it went away when I pulled on the handbrake lightly. Anyway, I gave the car to him to get that fixed - and just that...

He decided that he would replace all the brake lines in the car and gave me a bill of £700 at the end.

I can't help but think this guy is taking advantage of you Faheem, £700 to re-pipe a Z3 is nowt short of scandalous TBH.
Re the rattle from the rear end, when it occurs, try pulling the handbrake on slightly to tension the cables and see if that stops it. It is a very common cause of rattle.

Tony.

 

[andyglym]

No he has a tendency to finish all the work on the car without telling me how much the bill will be.

When I got the car I went to him with a squeaking noise that would occur everytime I was decelerating - turned out to be a corroded spring or something - it went away when I pulled on the handbrake lightly. Anyway, I gave the car to him to get that fixed - and just that...

He decided that he would replace all the brake lines in the car and gave me a bill of £700 at the end.

that's bang out of order. I'm sure they're supposed to contact you to ask if you want the work to be done and cost?

 

[Russell O]

No he has a tendency to finish all the work on the car without telling me how much the bill will be.

When I got the car I went to him with a squeaking noise that would occur everytime I was decelerating - turned out to be a corroded spring or something - it went away when I pulled on the handbrake lightly. Anyway, I gave the car to him to get that fixed - and just that...

He decided that he would replace all the brake lines in the car and gave me a bill of £700 at the end.

He doesn't sound like a very good friend to me dude.
Sounds like he see's you as loving your car and having deep pockets.
I would go elsewhere mate to be honest.
Their will be plenty of recommendations on this forum dependent of where abouts you are.

 

[Faheem]

I can't help but think this guy is taking advantage of you Faheem, £700 to re-pipe a Z3 is nowt short of scandalous TBH.
Re the rattle from the rear end, when it occurs, try pulling the handbrake on slightly to tension the cables and see if that stops it. It is a very common cause of rattle.

Tony.

Cheers Tony, when he finished the work and gave me that quote I refused to pay as he initially had said something around the £180 mark - he thought it would be the discs- i told him that had he told me it was going to cost this much I wouldn't have given the car to him to repair. Thankfully he reduced this price down as a 'good will gesture' to about £356 - here is the invoice.

One thing I don't understand is why is their an advisory on the MOT if the brake pipes were changed about 9 months prior to the MOT?