How To Guide M54B30 manifold swap on M52TUB28 How To

Lee

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Enjoyed that write up, changed way to many of these maniflolds over the years. You could go one step further in your quest for power and convert over to the M54B30 throttle body for increased air flow and more HP.

As a side note you might have some issues with that CCV line going from the rocker to the can, when you rev the enigne the vacuum increases inside and you might find this line pinching itself and stuttering the engine, we went through lot's of trial and error setting up a can system when I was tracking my leaky M54B30 engine.
 

MisterP007

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Awesome write up, thank you. You must also have an unopened box of nitrile gloves for sale ! :whistle:
Cheers, Tom
You are right about the gloves, the box is open though.

I put them on at the start of fiddly engine work and in 5-mins have ripped them and taken them off!!!!

Must try harder!
 

MisterP007

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Enjoyed that write up, changed way to many of these maniflolds over the years. You could go one step further in your quest for power and convert over to the M54B30 throttle body for increased air flow and more HP.

As a side note you might have some issues with that CCV line going from the rocker to the can, when you rev the enigne the vacuum increases inside and you might find this line pinching itself and stuttering the engine, we went through lot's of trial and error setting up a can system when I was tracking my leaky M54B30 engine.
Hi Lee

Thanks for the heads up on the CCV from the rocker cover, I presume you mean the original BMW crappy plastic bit?

I did intend to remove this entirely and replace with 7/8-1” Hose ( I have some but it is red!) down to 10mm/3/8th to go to the can.

I have not had an issue so far on the 250SWB I did the same set-up on last year (I used brass fittings for the sleeving down). I need to get the same fitting from eBay to do the 250Cal. At the moment the pipes are just pushed into each other for the write up/photos.

Have you a how to on converting To the M54B30 fly by wire Throttlebody ( I have one here and a set of purple injectors). Trouble is it will need a new ECU.

Cheers

Sandy
 

MisterP007

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MisterP007

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Finished the job now.
  • Vacuum tube from manifold to Oil Catch Can fitted
  • Brass adaptor fitted to sleeve down cam cover vacuum pipe to catch can
  • Fitted new rubber bottom air intake pipe
  • Fitted aluminium bend with vacuum outlet tube
  • Re-fitted MAF and cone filter
Job done.

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D640F4B2-4765-421A-90CD-604BA70EEAD1.jpeg
E9A528A0-0331-49A9-924E-024D06F9B735.jpeg
B7398C8C-57F2-41D4-A2CA-AA772E4FD700.jpeg
 

MuttyMax

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MisterP007
Thanks for the write up just off to find the parts. Just a question I've read is other non Z3 forums about people also changing over the the cams at the same time also seemingly from the M54b30. Any ideas on this or the potential for this? I know Schrick do specialist cams at a rip your arm off prices (which I cannot justify).
Thanks
MM
 

MisterP007

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MisterP007
Thanks for the write up just off to find the parts. Just a question I've read is other non Z3 forums about people also changing over the the cams at the same time also seemingly from the M54b30. Any ideas on this or the potential for this? I know Schrick do specialist cams at a rip your arm off prices (which I cannot justify).
Thanks
MM
Hi MuttyMax

I did not do the cams but I understand that the 3.0 intake and exhaust cams have an extra 1mm of lift. The Schrick ones are pricey.

Also get in touch with @Lee as he is "the man" for tuning these.

Good luck
 
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Sajk

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3.0 intake cam has more lift and duration. Exhaust is the same. The combination of the intake and cam gets a 2.8 to about 215 hp at the crank by getting the hp p/litre up to the same as the 3.0. Stock the 2.8tu produces about 69hp p/litre. The 3.0 about 76. The major difference in breathing is intake cam and manifold.
 

MisterP007

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New or re-programmed ECU as breathing is all changed and fuelling needs re-mapped. Glad you like the guide and so much easier with the engine out.
 

Sajk

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New or re-programmed ECU as breathing is all changed and fuelling needs re-mapped. Glad you like the guide and so much easier with the engine out.
A remap is always better but if you are at some altitude you will most likely be within stock dme tolerances EG I am at 6000 feet and the fueling and air flow is 18% different from sea level. If you are at sea level you will risk being quite lean.
 

mynamejowey

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New or re-programmed ECU as breathing is all changed and fuelling needs re-mapped. Glad you like the guide and so much easier with the engine out.

Yeah man. With all the times you said its hard to reach or some sort of making it harder comment i was like haha not for me😝
 

mynamejowey

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A remap is always better but if you are at some altitude you will most likely be within stock dme tolerances EG I am at 6000 feet and the fueling and air flow is 18% different from sea level. If you are at sea level you will risk being quite lean.
Im under sea level
 

MisterP007

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olly69

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some say remap the ECU, some say just unplug the battery for 30 mins and the car will self learn to an extent. That's all i've done and can tell theres a noticeable difference.
 

Lee

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some say remap the ECU, some say just unplug the battery for 30 mins and the car will self learn to an extent. That's all i've done and can tell theres a noticeable difference.
You will get more gains after a map to take full advantage of the fuelling and air flow.
 
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