How To Guide M54B30 manifold swap on M52TUB28 How To

[MisterP007]

A couple of people who know I have done this once already and planned to do it again on the 250 Cal, asked me to write up a how-to. So here it is:

First Question

Why bother?

The M52TUB28 was artificially restricted in it's breathing ability by BMW. Why? Well, rumours abound:

• The 2.8 had to be kept below 200bhp for German Insurance / Company Car reasons - I have never seen any real evidence for this.
• BMW knew that they would add the 3.0 engine to the Z3 with 231bhp on tap, the 2.8 would run at about 215-220 with a decent, unrestricted manifold and DISA. Not enough of a difference to warrant the price difference. - I find this more likely.

Why Change the Manifold/DISA

This photo probably tells you all you need to know, the increase in airflow is around +15-18% which is huge! Just look at the oval 2.8 and the fully opened out D of the 3.0. The size difference of the DISA's probably tells you even more.

From experience of the swap from M52TUB28 to M54B30 manifold/DISA and ECU to allow for adaption, the difference in performance is huge. Normal 2.8 torque and performance up to 3750 revs then all hell breaks loose, the acceleration is maintained right up to the red-line which come up very quickly.

Best bang for the buck performance wise on a 2.8 double vanos (if you have single Vanos use the M50 manifold from a 2.5, well documented elsewhere).

 

[MisterP007]

M54B30 manifold swap on M52TUB28.

Parts needed?

• M54B30 manifold from a 3.0 Z3, X5, 530, 330 etc
• DISA valve from the same
• Bimmertune Throttle Body Adaptor Plate (or similar) £33.14 direct

Bimmertune | Tuning & Repair parts for your BMW

Source of performance and repair parts for BMW cars. Online store and part manufacturing. We care to make your BMW a better car

bimmertune.com

• Uprated ECU to cope with the altered fueling (my ECU has also been re-programmed for 7200 red line, 2nd O2 sensor deleted, Secondary Air Pump deleted, free-flow exhaust).

https://digital-tuning.co.uk/product/remapped-bmw-e36-z3-2-8i-siemens-ms42-ecu-m52b28tu/ £149.95 less £35 for returned ECU

Optional whilst doing the swap

• Oil Catch Can
• 2m 8mm vacuum hose
• Jubilees for the above
• High Temp RTV sealant
• Cone air filter

Tools Needed

• Sockets - 6/8/10/13/16
• Long socket bar
• 3/8 & 1/4 ratchets
• T25/30/40 Torx bits
• Allen keys
• Crosshead and straight screwdrivers
• Small pry-bar
• Magnetic pick-up device
• Magnetic bolt tray
• Pin nosed pliers

Other useful stuff

• Carb cleaner and rags
• WD40
• Silicone lube spray

Got all of that? Then let's start.

 

[MisterP007]

Let's go:

• Strip all the PCV and rotten pipes from the M54B30 manifold and give it a good clean with carb cleaner
• Check all flanges and the manifold itself for cracks
• Make sure DISA is cleaned and fully working (there is a repair kit on ebay)
• Lever out the bolt covers on the manifold vanity cover with a flat screwdriver and undo the 10mm bolts

• Locate the electrical connector below the fuel pressure valve
• Press in the wire location clip and pull the connector out

Forgot to mention I had already removed the airbox/MAF (not rocket science so did not bother explaining, sorry!!!)

• Push in the retaining clip on the electrical connector located mid-way along the balancing rail and pull out

• Locate the rocker cover breather tube, squeeze in the plastic clips (they need a tight squeeze) and wiggle the pipe clear, it is tight as it has an o-ring

Not wanting to clog up each post with too many pics so go to next post........

 

[MisterP007]

Time to get the DISA valve out of the way:

• Squeeze the wire clip and remove the electrical connector on the top of the DISA valve
• Take a T40 torx and remove the two torx bolts from the DISA, the hidden one is diagonally down/left from the visible one

• Prise the DISA valve away from the manifold with a small pry-bar

• A lot of crud in there, hence the need to clean out the new manifold

• Under the front manifold runner there is a small valve which is part of the vacuum system
• Squeeze and disconnect the electrical connector

• Directly below the opening for the DISA valve you will see the Idle Control Valve (ally cylinder mounted horizontally). This needs to come out as you will need to put It back on the new manifold
• First, squeeze and disconnect the electrical connector
• Then move down to the bracket holding electrical distribution box (looks like a mad spider) and remove the retaining bolt and nut (10mm)
• This gives a bit of wiggle room to get the Idle Control Valve out

• Whilst you are down there, prise the Vacuum Valve from it's mounting. If this is stiff spray with the Silicone Spray Lube
• Prise off with a small pry bar, or may just pull off

Still with me?

Need to get the intake boot and Idle Control Valve out of the way:

• Intake boot is two 6mm jubilees and pulls off. Mine was split.

• Lever the idle control valve out of it's bung and pull out a bit with the bracket attached.
• Disconnect the electrical connector (I may have already covered this!).
• Pull the Idle Control Valve out. This needs cleaned up as it will be needed. Use Carb Cleaner and shake until the inner mechanism click-clacks freely.

Throttle Body out now:

• The throttle body is connected by four bolts. These are 10mm and come out easily. Pull the electrical wiring box back a bit and the body will move out a bit.
• This also has a circular electrical connector towards the front of the engine which turns about 45 degrees to undo (note the white arrows for later).
• There is also the throttle cable to consider. The cable can be pulled up out of the bracket and the ball end freed with a bit of fiddling.

• With all of this out of the way you can now get at the 16mm nut holding the lower retaining bracket in place. It is way down low on the block

 

[MisterP007]

Before we move up to the top of the manifold, I like to remove the mounting bracket for the Vacuum Valve, you do not have to, but I like to get things out of the way.

• Find the rubber pipe below the balance rail and between the first two inlet rails
• Disconnect the hose both ends

• Remains of a dead mouse, nicely toasted by now, yummy!!!!!!!!!!

A lot of fiddling about for a few extra BHP!!!!!!!!!!!!!11

 

[MisterP007]

A couple of little items before the manifold can come loose.

• Remove the small vacuum pipe on the fuel rail pressure valve having first bled any excess pressure from the rail by opening the Schrader valve and pressing in the valve. A small amount of fuel will squirt out so keep your face away

• Pull the cable runs from the two sprung clips and move out of the way

• The cable trunking which is attached to the scuttle/bulkhead and crosses over the rear of the engine will get in the way and needs moving.
• Spray a bit of silicone spray on the tabs behind the trunking and prise away
• Pull this as far out of the way as possible

• Having moved the trunking out of the way, this gives access to the rear-most nut which hold the manifold in place. Without moving the trunking the nut is barely even visible
• The other manifold mounting nuts are more easily accessible with a bit of thought, these can now be undone (13mm on a medium length bar for most and a long bar for the rearmost nut)

• Managed to chew one of the nuts up!! Onto to Amazon for more as I could not find any to fit (I think they may be M7!!!! - Bloody BMW!)

• Get hold of the manifold and give it a good solid wiggle and it will break the seal of the gasket and 20 plus years of aluminium corrosion. You cannot pull it fully free as yet. There are more pipes and connectors below.

Yeeeehaaaa! it's free!!!!

 

[MisterP007]

Now the manifold is floating free there are a few more items stopping it being pulled out:

• The injector rail needs to be freed
• A 10mm ratchet spanner will save you a lot of swearing here. There are four 10mm bolts holding the stainless steel fuel rail to the manifold. Undo these.
• Spray some WD40 into the join where the injectors fit into the plastic of the manifold (this join is well sealed with an o'ring and has probably not been moved for over 20-years). Go and have a cuppa!!!!
• Use a small pry bar between the brackets for the fuel rail and the mounting points and gently prise one up a little and move to the next. Move back and forth until they come out. Push the rail out of the way.
• The paper you see is to prevent bits falling into the valve inlet tracts with horrendous results!

• The small vacuum valve below the front rail of the manifold needs to be disconnected.
• Look for the plastic spring clip, squeeze and pull off the pipe, no need to free up the rubber tube as this runs under the manifold and will come out with it.

• The manifold can be pulled up a bit now (careful as there is still an electrical connector attached to the water temperature sensor buried deep behind the manifold at the rear. BMW even left a short, tight lead on this, genius!!! You would think a longer cable would aid removal.
• Pull the 12mm (ish vacuum pipe out of the orange bung on the base of the manifold

• Reach across to the rear of the cylinder head and disconnect the electrical connector from the water temp sensor.
• Bingo, it is out.

• Cylinder head needed a bloody good clean up to make sure the new manifold sits correctly. Vacuum clean as you go!!!

• Old & New!!!

 

[MisterP007]

Whilst everything is out of the way, now is a good time to get rid of any other stuff not needed. In my case:

• Vacuum canister for exhaust flap. I do not have the exhaust flap and this is extra weight and another potential vacuum leak
• The Secondary Air Pump lines and the SAP itself. I have not shown this as it is very easy

That is it for removal.

Assembly is the reverse of removal - except it is not. The re-fit is done but I will post the details tomorrow.

 

[MisterP007]

Ordered a new intake boot as mine is split and 10 pcs M7 Stainless Steel Flanged Nuts - Why? to replace the manifold stud nuts, one of which I chewed up.

"M7 Flange Nuts on an inlet manifold, on a BMW, at 3 in the morning with my reputation, what were they thinking?"

Anyone know the show reference?

 

[MisterP007]

OK, so everything is out, cleaned up and ready to rock and roll.

Now, which one is the M54B30 again?

• At the top rear of the manifold you will find various vacuum ports, some are capped (the caps are usually rotted and need replaced)
• If you are adding a catch can then, leave one small one capped, use the 6mm (internal) as the suction line to the oil catch can (marked "out" on the catch can), an 8mm ID vacuum hose fits on well. Use the other small one as the suction line to the fuel pressure valve on the front end of the fuel rail a 6mm ID tube fits this
• Spiders are extra!

• On the bottom of the manifold is the vacuum pipe that leads to the small vacuum valve on the front underside of the manifold (what it is called i cannot remember)
• 10mm ID fits this well. As it is right down under the manifold and a PITA if it comes off, fit a couple of feet of 10mm vacuum hose now and get a jubilee on there.
• The larger pipe runs back to the dipstick vent and as mine was in good nick it stayed in place

• The hose in the picture below is the one going to the fuel pressure valve on the fuel rail
• The short stubby is a temporary block as I ran out of 8mm ID hose. This, in my case, runs to the vacuum out of the oil catch can. It is OK to get at later so I will fit a length of hose when it arrives (must order a metre)

• VITAL - before you forget it, grab the electrical connector which fits onto the water temperature sensor at the rear of the head. If you forget, it all has to come back out. I would also recommend changing the sensor for a new one whilst in there.

• Fit the Bimmertune (or other) Throttle Body conversion plate with the screws provided whilst the manifold is out.
• The manifold can be lifted into the general area now ready to fit

 

[MisterP007]

Time to fit the thing! But before you do get a vacuum cleaner and a magnet down each of the valve inlet tracts. A bit of metal or a dropped bolt in here is a dead engine!

• Lift the manifold into place and loosely line up with the mounting studs. This is fiddly as it involves pulling the fuel rail out of the way along with lifting the cable trunking at the rear of the engine bay up and out of the way at the same time as using your "other two hands" to lift the manifold onto the studs without ripping the stud threads.
• Take care not to wreck the injectors as they really get in the way at this stage.
• I did manage to break the blue wire on the heater control valve on the bulkhead (top right corner of the first picture below)
• Get it bolted in with the M7 flange nuts

• Clean the injectors thoroughly with carb cleaner and make sure the o rings are in good condition
• Push the injectors and rail in bit by bit into the manifold. Bolt down with the four bolts, a 10mm ratchet spanner and silicone lube are your friends here

 

[MisterP007]

Ignore this bit if you are putting the original (or a new ) PCV system back in.

If you are changing to an Oil Catch Can, read on.......

• RTV silicone for sealing vacuum tubes
• I have capped off both ends of the balance rail using bolts with RTV Silicone. You could equally join the two points together with hose. I opted to block as the two tubes are different sizes.

• Push the cable runs back into the spring clips
• Connect the central electrical cable
• Clean the o-rings with carb cleaner and make sure they are in good condition.
• Push the balance rail back into position carefully and bit by bit. Screw down with the four torx screws

• It was at this point that I noticed the broken wire on the heater control valve and diverted onto stripping back a bit of the plastic strain relief, soldering and heat-shrinking in place. (need to get a new connector for this @spurs fan in a coupe ?)
• The cable trunking can now be pushed back onto it's three tabs

• Whilst the throttle body is not in place, now is a good time to bolt down the bottom support bracket (16mm socket, long bar). Do not forget this as it may well vibrate and cause damage to the gaskets/manifold, not to mention rattle

• Again ignore this next bit if you are using OEM PCV system.
• If you are adding an Oil Catch can cut the pipe fitting off the vacuum pipe that leads to the bottom of the oil dipstick and block with a bolt/RTV sealant and a cable tie or Jubilee

 

[MisterP007]

Time to fit the Throttle Body, Idle Control Valve, DISA and the various brackets around the area.

• Give the Throttle Body a good clean with carb cleaner, make sure the cable/ spring mechanism is working well and give it a squirt of good old 3-in-1 oil
• Clean out the Idle Control Valve with carb cleaner. This needs to be rattled on it's axis until it freely click-clacks.

• Get the throttle body roughly in position and line up the white pointers on the electrical connector. This twists about 45 degrees to reconnect

• Use the four new long bolts that come with the throttle body adaptor and bolt in place. Be careful not to cross-thread as the adaptor plate is aluminium. Some light oil helps.

• Fitting the throttle cable is fairly straightforward if a bit tight. You can just about see the ball on the end of the cable above my hand. This needs to be passed under the mechanism whilst pulling the mechanism up. It all slips into place easily enough.

• Fix the bracket holding the electrical distribution (looks like a mad spider) box in place by pushing onto the stud shown and tightening the 10mm nut

• Nice clean free moving Idle Control Valve

• Idle Control Valve slides (with the help of silicone spray) into the rubber sleeve on the bracket as shown. The two ports are of different sizes. The smaller port faces into the manifold

• Connect the electrical connector whilst the valve is still out, it really tight otherwise
• Push the valve port into the bung on the manifold, a bit of friendly motivation with a small pry-bar helps
• Bolt the bracket in place with the two T40 torx bolts

• Lift the bracket for the electrical distribution box onto the stud and bolt up with a 10mm nut
• Now the Idle Control Valve bracket is in place, lift the throttle cable up and over the adjuster and push home

• The picture below shows the throttle cable in it's correct position and the lower air intake boot pushed into place.
• Position the nuts on the jubilee clips for the air intake boot carefully so you can get a long screwdriver/7mm socket onto them easily.
• I put the old boot back in place (no wife jokes please!!) for the sake of continuity. It is split so I have ordered a new one

• That is a massive difference in the size of the DISA's
• Make sure the new one is cleaned up and working well with the seating all OK. Check the connection on the end of the swivel pin as these can come off and end up in the valve tract (dead engine)

• Sorry pictures above are in the wrong order but hey-ho!
• Slide the DISA into the manifold and bolt in place with the two T40 torx bolts
• Push the electrical connector in place

• Find the vacuum tube which comes from the bottom of the manifold and push-fit onto the vacuum valve
• Re-connect the push-fit vacuum pipe and pull the clip tight to lock in place

 

[MisterP007]

A few more short stages to go:

• Re-bolt the side bracket to the manifold with the two T25 Torx bolts
• For some reason the brackets are different on the 3.0? In any case you will need a longer bolt to connect as shown

• Push the vacuum valve onto the bracket arm with the help of the silicone spray
• Connect the electrical connector

• The remaining connector is for the MAF

• Depending on whether you are going OEM, Cold Air Intake, Cone Filter etc. The story from here diverges

 

[MisterP007]

Follow on if you want to fit an oil catch can and a new ECU:

Catch Can

• First off, take the plastic vacuum tube supplied with the low price catch cans and chuck it in the bin or use it as a long straw, anything but as a vacuum tube
• Fit up the intake pipes to the catch can ( I am using the ones for 10mm internal tube). Make sure you use the o-rings. Also add a baby o-ring to the dip-stick

• Work out a good position for the can. I have positioned it on the inner wing near the bonnet alarm switch. A couple of 90 degree brackets will give a bit of swivel

• Re-connect the cam cover breather tube and cut off at about 6-8". This will be connected to a 10mm ID pipe with an adaptor onto the catch can "in"

• I do not have the adaptor so this pic is just for the idea

• The "out" connector on the catch can runs to the larger of the vacuum ports at the rear of the manifold as indicated

• Not sure why these pics are here but bolt the fuel rail cover back on

 

[MisterP007]

Air Filter Choices:

• In my case I ran in the MAF intake pipe and added a cone filter for the time being, I will be changing to ally tubes from the bottom air intake boot upwards as per my other Fauxrarri below
  

 

[MisterP007]

Changing the ECU:

So easy it beggars belief.

• Disconnect the battery and leave things alone for a while to discharge current in the system
• Unscrew the 5-screws that hold the cover in place for the ECU/Relay box. Liftoff.
• The ECU is mounted vertically and comes out easily once the connectors are pulled
• The two end connectors have side latches that can be pushed in with a screwdriver, the middle connectors have a top-mounted tab and a release lever.
• Once all disconnected pull the ECU up and out
• Slide the new one in and re-connect
• Screw down the lid
• Re-connect the battery
• Turn the ignition key to position 2 for 90 seconds and do not touch the accelerator cable (the ECU learns the throttle position during this)

Job done!

 

[MisterP007]

Job done, welcome to increased performance. The car's system will bed in over the next 500 miles or so with the ECU learning the trims etc.

The result is spectacular, enjoy!

 

[Eddie Zedder]

Brilliant write up .

 

[MisterP007]

Brilliant write up .

Thanks Eddie!