HELP! Engine Management Light on and no power...

[bertiejaffa]

Cant stick garages that don't know - tell them that you want written evidence they know why the light has come on and what needs to change to remove it - be assertive and say you don't care about other codes - you just want to know whats triggered the light.

Also, if they do a repair and the light comes back on, get them to agree in advance that it is refundable.

Finally, tell them that if their code reader can't tell them whats triggered the light and only tells them ever code ever then refuse to pay for the code read too. When I go into a garage I am specific about whats happened and what I want to know.

I always give the example of going to the quacks - I am sure there are loads of things "not quite right" with me after 40 odd years - however, if I need antibiotics for a cold then thats what I want and only that. I don't also need a full examination or my kidney replacing just because the computer says its not quite as it once was.

I love arguing with dealerships about code reading... at the end of the day if an indi garage has to go out and buy loads of software to read every different make and model of car then I can sympathise with that, but when BMW turn round and say that they want to charge you for having to use their own technology to read a fault on their own cars because they have designed and built a car that their own mechanics can't now understand.... The dawning reality of how ridiculous that is on their faces when you push back is priceless.

 

[oldcarman]

@bertiejaffa is right! Stand your ground and don't back down when you get wonky explanations. Hit them with logic, it throws them off their game!! JIM

 

[ZedLeppelin]

Hi everyone,

Sorry for my late reply. I took the car to my dad in Mansfield as he is mechanically minded and knows a fair bit. He wasn't around until yesterday - so armed with potential solutions from you lovely people I went to see him sounding like I knew something .

When we did some digging we (I say that loosely as it was my dad really!) found that the engine light could be due to an oil pressure issue. As Redline suggested we took a look at the solenoids amongst other things.

Low and behold we find that the oil was mucky, the filter was badly damaged (and bunged up) and the solenoids had a lot of muck on them which my dad felt would be affecting oil pressure and could be what has triggered the engine light.

Some images are below (the oil filter was even worse on the other side!).

- We did test the solenoids using a battery and they were actuating well so they seemed to be working ok once we had cleaned them up.
Both solenoids were gummed up as a side note.

Once all of this was done the car pulls noticeably better, idles more smoothly and the engine light has stayed off (for now at least).

Only time will tell but hopefully this was the issue.

Thanks again for everyone who has pitched in with suggestions and helped me out and I hope you all have a warm weathered, roof down kind of weekend!

Matt

 

[ZedLeppelin]

Cant stick garages that don't know - tell them that you want written evidence they know why the light has come on and what needs to change to remove it - be assertive and say you don't care about other codes - you just want to know whats triggered the light.

Also, if they do a repair and the light comes back on, get them to agree in advance that it is refundable.

Finally, tell them that if their code reader can't tell them whats triggered the light and only tells them ever code ever then refuse to pay for the code read too. When I go into a garage I am specific about whats happened and what I want to know.

I always give the example of going to the quacks - I am sure there are loads of things "not quite right" with me after 40 odd years - however, if I need antibiotics for a cold then thats what I want and only that. I don't also need a full examination or my kidney replacing just because the computer says its not quite as it once was.

I love arguing with dealerships about code reading... at the end of the day if an indi garage has to go out and buy loads of software to read every different make and model of car then I can sympathise with that, but when BMW turn round and say that they want to charge you for having to use their own technology to read a fault on their own cars because they have designed and built a car that their own mechanics can't now understand.... The dawning reality of how ridiculous that is on their faces when you push back is priceless.

You are totally right - but I guess as my knowledge is not great I felt a bit cornered and not confident in pushing back so much. I will go back however and ask for the readout and the specific codes as I paid for this.

To be honest I found the whole experience poor. The service from the parts chap (whose name I won't mention) was awful. Very short, not very forthcoming and not helpful at all. The garage seemed hell bent on scare tactics to nudge me into something that was by their own admission not 100% likely to be the issue but happened to be extremely expensive.

I asked for the part number for the DME unit and he flat out refused to give it to me but was happy to show me where it was and where to find it? A bit odd I thought as he stated BMW do not give out part numbers? Why show me where it was but not just give me the flipping number?!

I also asked if I could bring a DME unit I buy to them to programme and they said DME units can only be programmed once so they will only do it if it is a BMW genuine part with a receipt to prove it. My dad said that these units should be reprogrammable more than once so he thought this was fishy and a bit of a scare tactic.

I wish I had your analogy when I went in!! I will definitely not be falling for that from them or other garages RE code reads again as what you said it totally true.

Hopefully they will give me the read out.

Thanks

Matt

 

[Brian4]

Glad it seems as if you have found the cause amazing where gunge gets to in an engine. Probably worth changing the oil and filter again in a 1000 miles or so or run flushing oil through first

@Redline does any of this sound like yours. I can pop over next week with my code reader if you would like.

 

[Redline]

Glad it seems as if you have found the cause amazing where gunge gets to in an engine. Probably worth changing the oil and filter again in a 1000 miles or so or run flushing oil through first

@Redline does any of this sound like yours. I can pop over next week with my code reader if you would like.

I've got all the power but no lights so I guess no codes. I'm expecting the filter to be wrecked when it's taken out. The oil on the exhaust cam shaft looked nice and clean when I last looked.
I don't have a low profile jack or ramps (nor the time) so rather than mess about I've booked it in at the local Indy to have them replace the oil and filter then I'll take it from there. Mines exhibiting the same symptoms as others who've had the filter collapse. I didn't know what the filter looked like but I'm guessing the oil is pumped into the central column and out through the holes and then through the filter. I expect to find the filter split and oil forcing its way through the gap. If that's the case oil was still getting pumped around the engine. It just wasn't all being filtered.

If that's it I'll feel like I dodged a bullet to be honest. It can't have been bad for long. I drove up to Lincoln last Friday and I'm sure @t-tony would have heard it and said. Didn't drive it again until yesterday as I wound the window to use my pass to open the gate into the compound.

 

[t-tony]

The oil is drawn through the filter from the outside inwards, that's why they implode as they get blocked. You wouldn't believe the filters we sometimes remove from Vauxhalls, mainly Corsas. Next time I get a bad one I'll take a picture of it.

Tony.

 

[Redline]

The oil is drawn through the filter from the outside inwards, that's why they implode as they get blocked. You wouldn't believe the filters we sometimes remove from Vauxhalls, mainly Corsas. Next time I get a bad one I'll take a picture of it.

Tony.

OK - that makes sense. I guess the noise is cavitation causing vibration in the filter structure rather than a smooth flow.
Is the oil pump after the filter then? Does oil drain back from the filter leaving air in it.
I'll ask for a photo of the filter or get them to keep the filter when they take it out.

 

[t-tony]

No the filter bowl remains full. When you remove it to access the inlet cam sensor it's full till you lift out the cap and filter then it empties. I assume the pump draws the oil through the filter, or it couldn't "suck" the filter inwards.

Tony.

 

[Redline]

No the filter bowl remains full. When you remove it to access the inlet cam sensor it's full till you lift out the cap and filter then it empties. I assume the pump draws the oil through the filter, or it couldn't "suck" the filter inwards.

Tony.

With the filter being so high up I'd expect any in the lift pipe would draw back into the engine when you switch it off even if the filter itself remains full. Pulling oil through it rather than pushing it through would then draw air through and into the oil pump.

Ah - someone just switched a light on. Discussing it at work today somebody said that oil filters commonly have a non-return valve in. I'd still expect the oil pump be between the sump pick up and the filter though. Then its likely to crush the filter pumping oil into it rather than suck it in. But, then, you'd have unfiltered oil going through a high pressure pump - not good. Am valiantly trying to find details of how the oil system works - its too dark out there now to go trace it through.

 

[t-tony]

There will be a relief valve which should open if the filter gets blocked, allowing oil to by-pass the filter and still circulate around the engine. Better unfiltered oil than no oil?

Tony.

 

[Brian4]

here is castrols video

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9RSWs44PdkE

 

[Redline]

There will be a relief valve which should open if the filter gets blocked, allowing oil to by-pass the filter and still circulate around the engine. Better unfiltered oil than no oil?

Tony.

Just read the codes and nothing of any importance showing (I do keep getting an error from the windows but they're all fine) but nothing at all on engine etc. If there was anything I'd expect at least the Engine Management light to be on. Filter and oil change on Wednesday. Hopefully mine too will then be fixed.

Also, had another look at the roof opener and its just as you say @t-tony - the connectors supplied are rubbish. Clearly a faulty connection. Took three attempts to get the tray back in and keep it working . Its works fine with the tray out, but as you push it back in its clearly straining the cables and its just enough to break the connection. Have taped each wire up against its block. Otherwise, it will be as you say, solder them or better would be make up an extension connector with the necessary wires coming out. I see a trip into the workshop at work.
For the moment, now its working, I'm going to leave it alone.

 

[t-tony]

Just read the codes and nothing of any importance showing (I do keep getting an error from the windows but they're all fine) but nothing at all on engine etc. If there was anything I'd expect at least the Engine Management light to be on. Filter and oil change on Wednesday. Hopefully mine too will then be fixed.

Also, had another look at the roof opener and its just as you say @t-tony - the connectors supplied are rubbish. Clearly a faulty connection. Took three attempts to get the tray back in and keep it working . Its works fine with the tray out, but as you push it back in its clearly straining the cables and its just enough to break the connection. Have taped each wire up against its block. Otherwise, it will be as you say, solder them or better would be make up an extension connector with the necessary wires coming out. I see a trip into the workshop at work.
For the moment, now its working, I'm going to leave it alone.

When I did mine I disconnected all the plugs from the switches and bared the wires back to about 3" or so, the gave plenty of room to get in and solder the wires joints before taping them up well. Good to hear it's something simple anyway Ian.

Tony.

 

[mac77]

Hi everyone,

I have just had an engine management light come on and my car has either gone into limp home mode or has seen a massive loss of power (2.0litre 2006 z4, 67k miles).

There is now no acceleration whatsoever but the car does start and allows me to drive it. Is it ok to drive still? It will cause me havoc at work if I can't :/

Any ideas as to what the problem might be? expensive to fix?

It seems to come out of the blue which is odd. I have seen that it could be an 02 sensor, camshaft sensor or even spark plugs if it is due to a misfiring cylinder? Could this be correct?

I am praying this is not an expensive fix

If anyone could offer suggestions or has had this happen themselves then I would be grateful for their input.

Thanks in advance

Matt

 

[mac77]

Hi everyone,

I have just had an engine management light come on and my car has either gone into limp home mode or has seen a massive loss of power (2.0litre 2006 z4, 67k miles).

There is now no acceleration whatsoever but the car does start and allows me to drive it. Is it ok to drive still? It will cause me havoc at work if I can't :/

Any ideas as to what the problem might be? expensive to fix?

It seems to come out of the blue which is odd. I have seen that it could be an 02 sensor, camshaft sensor or even spark plugs if it is due to a misfiring cylinder? Could this be correct?

I am praying this is not an expensive fix

If anyone could offer suggestions or has had this happen themselves then I would be grateful for their input.

Thanks in advance

Matt

 

[mac77]

Hi Zedleppelin, My x reg z3 2ltr went into limp mode , took it to local garage and they said it was throttle body, , they obtained a second hand one and the car ran fine for abt 20 miles then went into limp mode agn having charged me £600.00 then said they could not help anymore . I then found a garage that said they could fix it for me . They said it w,as the disa valve , but this did not cure the fault . . .And cost me a further £387.00 > Have now found a garage that say there is no charge if they cannot find fault .. Hope you have better luck than me .I have driven mine since and covered about 75miles with no other problems . So you should be alright to drive. providing your oil pressure and engine temp are normal.

 

[colb]

Just hate hearing all these stories of people getting ripped off by garages, always best to come on here for advice and if you are local to one of the groups of members who run zedsheds where they meet up and do jobs on their cars between them. I wish members would put their locations on their profiles so it appears on the left hand side of their posts, nice to see and offer help if they are local.