GazHyde Progress #2 restarted January 2013

Use the fly eyes to finish off the brake light. Looks good Gaz

Carbon badges would look good also
 
z3cade said:
Carbon badges would look good also
Click to expand...
On the list, but will leave badges until I decide on whether to vinyl wrap or not. If I go with vinyl, I may well remove and fill the rear badge holes along with the boot lock. Looking in to fitting a remote boot release so I don't need the lock. Only issue is what happens if the remote fails! I can have a nice clean looking boot lid then.

Going to sort the mechanics out first, and then work on making her look less ratty & rusty (wheel arches and sills are looking awful). Just ordered myself one of the induction kits which g8kja posted in his thread, and a set of 30mm PI lowering springs (couldn't quite stretch to Eibach). That should keep me busy for a while.
 
If you wrap the car Gaz what colour you thinking?
 
I was discussing this with BMG a few days ago on chat. It needs a complete respray and that will cost me way more than the car is worth.

As the vinyl is non-permanent I'm tempted by doing something unique to contrast against the dark wheels and gills. Black CF/matt vinyl is way too common so want to stay away from that. I found a photo of an orange Z3M Coupe a while ago, and I think it looks great (has the same headlights as mine too. Whether I have the balls to do it I'm not entirely sure. Would certainly be unique!

orange_zed.jpg
 
You know the Tango jokes will come out ;)
 
Gaz,

Why does it need a full Respray? It looks ok. If it is like mine then it will only have slight blemishes on the front of the side skirts and the rear arches.if you remove the panels and take them to the body shop they will repair for under £500, this is what I am doing with my wide body conversion panels.
 
Zedonist,

There are three panels which probably don't need any real work doing to them (the two under the gills and the passenger rear wing).

Drivers rear wing - dents mainly from careless application of fuel nozzle (previous owner) and stonechips
Bootlid - retrofitted boot lock lifter starting to rust and bubble badly. Known issue with them.
Bonnet - always had a weird patch on it. Didn't notice it when I bought it, but it's under the original lacquer, so must be an imperfection when originally sprayed. To my knowledge the bonnet is still original paint.
Front bumper - scuffs and a chunk taken out of the bottom section from previous owner using it to judge the distance to the curb. Large section of paint peeled off, which is mostly covered by the bonnet when closed. Oh and a burn mark from a soldering iron when my mate fitted the new headlights (don't ask!).
Rear Bumper scratches which didn't machine polish out enough.
Side sills - one looks to have been poorly resprayed and bubbling rust. The other has bubbling rust.
Wheel arches (all four) are starting to bubble, and two are rusting through. Usual place on the rear, so most likely stone damage.
Passenger door - scuffs and supermarket ding
Drivers door - A detailer who I got in to machine polish it warned me that the surface wasn't very good on it, and said there was a high likely hood of burning through the lacquer. His depth gauge said it was really thin! Told him to proceed and he was proven right.

Poor little thing...
 
orange sheep.webp
 
GazHyde said:
Zedonist,

There are three panels which probably don't need any real work doing to them (the two under the gills and the passenger rear wing).

Drivers rear wing - dents mainly from careless application of fuel nozzle (previous owner) and stonechips
Bootlid - retrofitted boot lock lifter starting to rust and bubble badly. Known issue with them.
Bonnet - always had a weird patch on it. Didn't notice it when I bought it, but it's under the original lacquer, so must be an imperfection when originally sprayed. To my knowledge the bonnet is still original paint.
Front bumper - scuffs and a chunk taken out of the bottom section from previous owner using it to judge the distance to the curb. Large section of paint peeled off, which is mostly covered by the bonnet when closed. Oh and a burn mark from a soldering iron when my mate fitted the new headlights (don't ask!).
Rear Bumper scratches which didn't machine polish out enough.
Side sills - one looks to have been poorly resprayed and bubbling rust. The other has bubbling rust.
Wheel arches (all four) are starting to bubble, and two are rusting through. Usual place on the rear, so most likely stone damage.
Passenger door - scuffs and supermarket ding
Drivers door - A detailer who I got in to machine polish it warned me that the surface wasn't very good on it, and said there was a high likely hood of burning through the lacquer. His depth gauge said it was really thin! Told him to proceed and he was proven right.

Poor little thing...
Click to expand...

scrap it. :(
 
Fitted the induction kit, then looked to g8kja's photo of his and mine has ended located slightly different! Guess I'd better go and have another look.

Certainly sounds better with it fitted...

induction.jpg
 
That looks OK to me Gaz, very similar to how mine is fitted. I just think mine is angled down slightly more but I had to do this because of the alarm siren.

Did you put the old cold air feed back in from the old air box?

Certainly sound good and even better when you go above 4000 revs with the throttle buried :)
 
g8jka said:
That looks OK to me Gaz, very similar to how mine is fitted. I just think mine is angled down slightly more but I had to do this because of the alarm siren.
Click to expand...
I think it may benefit better from the route the air comes in the front behind the grilles if it's further down like yours. Will try both and see if it makes a difference or not.
g8jka said:
Did you put the old cold air feed back in from the old air box?
Click to expand...
That's part of the plan, but I need to find something to stop it falling back out! Was thinking some padded foam tape might work.
 
GazHyde said:
g8jka said:
That looks OK to me Gaz, very similar to how mine is fitted. I just think mine is angled down slightly more but I had to do this because of the alarm siren.
Click to expand...
I think it may benefit better from the route the air comes in the front behind the grilles if it's further down like yours. Will try both and see if it makes a difference or not.
g8jka said:
Did you put the old cold air feed back in from the old air box?
Click to expand...
That's part of the plan, but I need to find something to stop it falling back out! Was thinking some padded foam tape might work.
Click to expand...

I think you will get more air further down, need a proper cold air feed though really. I jammed mine in quite far so it sort of trapped one end and the other end was right against the filter.
 
As an emergency repair you could apply a touch of nail varnish to seal the wound.
Pink or red would look good ;)


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