For the Love of my Zed! Novice vs Car

Mine was worse by the look of it , but with a bit of cleaning, anti rust and black topcoat came up ok. It will spend most of its life under the car anyway :)
Glad it not too far gone as I’ve had to use them in the past . . .add that to the list.
 
So here is a tip for anyone (like me, new) trying to get into a 6mm Allen bolt, use penetrating spray . . .and a 6mm Allen key with the round end (see pic) slowly work the end into the bolt and keep spraying spray, using this method i managed to get a ratchet 6mm into an otherwise no go bolt x4 (the ones in the pic), also use a small hammer and lightly tap it in and spray each time you get a little further . . .until there is a proper bite for the ratchet . . .!
 

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As for the bolts connecting the exhaust to the manifold outlet . . .good luck, i got 4 out using bolt removers but the last 2, OMG stripped a bolt remover trying a bolt remover head with an impact wrench and just stripped the head, then tried a nut cracker, broke that first go . . .returned as useless, then bought a dremmel with an extension . . . Very frustrating but managed to cut it off. Currently I’ve got a half cut bolt and another sheared bolt end stuck in that area. I’m guessing drilling it out may be the solution but i recon those are the original bolts 20ys in place and near enough welded to the local area. That was 4 days of after work . . . Work. Took a chunk out of my soul.
 
Hard to tell from a picture but to be fair a lot of people ditch them and the carrier and carry a tin of Tyreweld or similar.

Tony.
I did see that, post having purchasing another unrusted frame. The problem with the zeds is the faf getting to it for a check up and no extended valve which can be topped up during normal tire pressurising . . .once had a flat only to pull out my reserve and . . . .it was flat too, ha ha
 
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Question 5) short gearstick, anyone have experience with this mod and if good which one to buy? Seeing as thought its all expose i can see the merit in installing as part of this process
 
Today i managed to get 1 wheel prop out, disconnect the handbrake cable to on side and remove both shoes. I drained the diff oil and attempted cutting through the beam bushes with a hacksaw . . .a hacksaw ha ha, lots of sweat and not much change, mights try stick drilling or even a hole saw tomorrow. So close to having everything stripped but learnt that getting the wheel bearings out is a mission so as they feel good and i cant feel any movement I’m going to leave them in.

I’m considering removing the gearbox and inserting a new clutch but without another pair of hands nor a tranny jack, it many be beyond . . .ill keep waiting videos and see if the confidence grows
 

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Bit of info on removing the gearbox
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Just ordered one, not cheap . . .but as i have a bunch of coolant system work to do . . Should pay for its self.
 
Yes, I’ll bring it up with me ( Sat. am if ok ? ) so you can have a look.
As far as the transmission jack, all the gearboxes I have ever removed, ( albeit when I was a lot younger and they were mostly Fords) I dropped them using a made up wooden frame on a trolley jack. Bit Heath Robinson, but always seemed to work ok.
If a cars on axle stands , can you get a transmission jack underneath???
 
Bush removal basic tools:
1) use Stanley and cut away rubber flanges
2) use 4mm drill bit and drill up to 4x holes in each end (watch out for snapping them, easy)
3) spray WD40 into holes
4) grab with monkey grip
5) wiggle back and forth . . . And back and forth
6) pop . . . Out it comes, managed to get them out in 10 min (each) once I had the method
 
Finally de-rusted and cleaned the cross beam . . . Tomorrow the trailing arms
 
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Blimey, you took the whole car apart in the time I swear at a couple of rusty bolts that won't come out. And yeah, also, lets down the whole friggin' back end while the car is held on 4 chicken drumsticks :-)
 
Nice one ZedHead. :thumbsup:

I have not seen anyone use that method for years. I was taught that years ago when I first started tinkering with an old E21, but we used oil instead.
I wish the beam bushes were as easy, also used a larger drill to drill out the metal insert then went at it with a hacksaw, that was not fun! One I made a cut I used a lump hammer and chisel...phew
 
Blimey, you took the whole car apart in the time I swear at a couple of rusty bolts that won't come out. And yeah, also, lets down the whole friggin' back end while the car is held on 4 chicken drumsticks :)
Apart from the exhaust nuts fusing to the manifold outlet (2x bolts I’ll have to drill out later) it’s gone well. I was only able to knock out 1x of the wheel props so I had to derust with it on and from what I read about the wheel bearings that was a non starter so felt a little upset I could clean and potentially replace the back plates . . . But hey

Today was a massive day, derusted swing arm, diff, brake calipers, and wheel prop. Yesterday, swing arm, wheel prop and arb, back stiff now! But all parts are cleaned and ready for paint prep!

So much for Halfords 200 piece kit, doesn’t have a Allen socket/key big enough for the diff oil in/out plugs, I’m guessing it’s a 14mm? Anyone know for sure?

Last derusting is to the underside of the car, that is at least on my back, but I expect it’s going to be like working in a rust storm! Might need to don the goggles for that one. And the tank straps. Had a member round mine (Mazza) and he’s working on manufacturing some stainless tank straps!

Anyway, got a couple days off due to entertaining so I’ll recover my tingling hands for Monday! Hope you all have a good bank holiday.
 
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