Another MoT issue/question

Redline

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The Landy is in having open heart surgery (Cam-belt and all the bits hanging off it) today and its MoT tomorrow.
They've also reported severely lipped discs on the rear, but, I've have advisories of lipped discs before.
The discs are worn with 13.5mm thick and been told minimum is 10mm.

Are lipped discs themselves a reason to fail or is it down to thickness of the discs.

Looks like a shed full of things to sort so if I can put replacing the discs off a while it would be useful.
Other things are leaking sump seal (hence slow loss of oil), sump plug and threads also damaged, turbo/intercooler pipe porous (whatever that means), drive shaft seal, roll-bar play, possible alternator problem (TBA).
 

t-tony

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These are the main criteria re disc, pads etc.
g. a brake lining or pad insecure or less than 1.5 mm thick at any point


h. a brake disc or drum contaminated by brake fluid, oil or grease

i. a brake disc or drum in such a condition that it is seriously weakened or insecure

Here is a link to the MOT tester's manual in PDF form, you can access it for free,

https://www.gov.uk/topic/mot/manuals

Tony.
 

Redline

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These are the main criteria re disc, pads etc.
g. a brake lining or pad insecure or less than 1.5 mm thick at any point


h. a brake disc or drum contaminated by brake fluid, oil or grease

i. a brake disc or drum in such a condition that it is seriously weakened or insecure

Here is a link to the MOT tester's manual in PDF form, you can access it for free,

https://www.gov.uk/topic/mot/manuals

Tony.
Thanks Tony.

Not knowing how thick the disc is when its new its difficult to tell how worn 13.5mm actually is. How do you determine seriously weakened - A bit subjective.
Gail once had a disc explode so its not something to skimp on I guess. I can't remember when they were changed last.

Just reading up on one of the other faults found - Gearbox to transfer box oil seal leaking. Loads of labour to fix that. At their rates that's a king's ransom. :eek:
Might just leave that and have my local Indy do it if it needs to be done.
 

t-tony

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If it's a "solid" disc Ian it should be stamped on the outer edge thickness new and minimum thickness. Hard to see on an old disc I know. I had a vented disc break on my Touareg because the bits in between the baking surfaces had corroded away. I have never seen a solid disc break. as you say hard to determine "seriously weakened" it is a bit subjective and that's where you have to trust the tester's honesty I'm afraid. Lipped discs in themselves are not a reason for rejection, they only get a lip because the pads were never quite big enough to cover the whole braking area of the disc in the first place, when you renew pads on old slightly lipped discs you need to file a chamfer on the inner and outer edges of the new pads to allow it to contact the braking area of the disc fully.

Tony.

ps. My suspicion is that these discs are not badly worn at 13.5 mm thick, be interesting to see a picture of them.
 

Redline

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As is the way nowadays they've sent me a video showing all the problems.
I'll pm you the link. The inside is difficult to see and judge because of the dust covers. They claim 13.5mm yet new rear discs from Eurocaparts quote 12mm new so something isn't right. You can see they are worn but to what degree is difficult to tell.
Just noticed too that they are quoting twice the price of ECP.

Deciphering the report - It's the transfer box breather that's leaking. By the time they've stripped that down to change it, its only 3 or 4 bolts away from dropping the box - so, If they go that far its worth changing the clutch too. At half the price its a job for my local indy though.

Think I'll stick with the minimum to get the MoT and then get my local Indy to do the rest.
 

t-tony

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As is the way nowadays they've sent me a video showing all the problems.
I'll pm you the link. The inside is difficult to see and judge because of the dust covers. They claim 13.5mm yet new rear discs from Eurocaparts quote 12mm new so something isn't right. You can see they are worn but to what degree is difficult to tell.
Just noticed too that they are quoting twice the price of ECP.

Deciphering the report - It's the transfer box breather that's leaking. By the time they've stripped that down to change it, its only 3 or 4 bolts away from dropping the box - so, If they go that far its worth changing the clutch too. At half the price its a job for my local indy though.

Think I'll stick with the minimum to get the MoT and then get my local Indy to do the rest.
Personally I would get a second opinion from your Indy first Ian.

Tony.
 

Redline

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Personally I would get a second opinion from your Indy first Ian.

Tony.
Had come to that conclusion after working out what's needed to fix this. Don't want to end up trashing the transfer box though.
 

Redline

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Watched the vid again - the sump is totally dry - its only the area around the seal that has oil on it. On the basis that any oil would normally flow down to the base of the sump it says to me that its not a massive leak - looks far wetter than would be the case on a big leak.
Am thinking just a new sump plug for the moment.
 

t-tony

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Don't want to end up trashing the transfer box though.
These are fairly resilient mate, it would need a fairly big consistent leak to lower the oil level enough to cause damage. A small amount of oil in a gear or transfer box goes along way when gears are turning and lubrication is automatic. You might be surprised to know that most new vehicles aren't even filled up the level plug in the trans. Saves the manufacturers lots of money.

Tony.
 

t-tony

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Watched the vid again - the sump is totally dry - its only the area around the seal that has oil on it. On the basis that any oil would normally flow down to the base of the sump it says to me that its not a massive leak - looks far wetter than would be the case on a big leak.
Am thinking just a new sump plug for the moment.
Yes, I think you are, we have a kit at work for heli-coiling sump plug threads. These are more often than not damaged by idiots over tightening them and stretching the threads and by not replacing the sealing washer as well. But mainly through over tightening. Very common on VAG vehicles. We have one such guy at work, scared that it might come loose or leak . . . . .

Tony.
 

Redline

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Yes, I think you are, we have a kit at work for heli-coiling sump plug threads. These are more often than not damaged by idiots over tightening them and stretching the threads and by not replacing the sealing washer as well. But mainly through over tightening. Very common on VAG vehicles. We have one such guy at work, scared that it might come loose or leak . . . . .

Tony.
Got the list of things down from £1900 to just over £300. Even if I had the Indy do the rest I have £800 in my pocket.

Thanks for the help and advice ( all with prejudice ;)) - :thumbsup:
 

t-tony

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Got the list of things down from £1900 to just over £300. Even if I had the Indy do the rest I have £800 in my pocket.

Thanks for the help and advice ( all with prejudice ;)) - :thumbsup:
I hope I have been of some help mate, as I said the lads at big dealers have to sell to earn, much like Halfords etc. It's just the way of the world, I'm sorry to say I'm getting pushed in that direction too but it won't work with me. I'm too stuck in my old fashioned ways.

Tony
 

t-tony

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Gearbox to transfer box oil seal leaking
The transfer box comes before the gear box so not mega bucks I don't think. Have you got an Indy LR specialist anywhere near? You can actually remove the rear axle prop shaft and run as a 2 wheel drive, I've been told its more economical.

Tony
 

Redline

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I hope I have been of some help mate, as I said the lads at big dealers have to sell to earn, much like Halfords etc. It's just the way of the world, I'm sorry to say I'm getting pushed in that direction too but it won't work with me. I'm too stuck in my old fashioned ways.

Tony
What they don't get is that the more they do that the longer it is before you go and replace your car.
The transfer box comes before the gear box so not mega bucks I don't think. Have you got an Indy LR specialist anywhere near? You can actually remove the rear axle prop shaft and run as a 2 wheel drive, I've been told its more economical.

Tony
The last 1/3 mile into work is a twisty track 1 in ss10 and 1 in 8 in places. I'd rather drive up than walk when it's snow and ice so keeping the 4wd is a must. It's normally mid morning before they get it salted or a plough there. Sitting in the office drinking tea while watching everyone else struggle in gives me a nice warm feeling inside :whistle:=))
There has to be some befit to having 4x4.
 

t-tony

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There's much more profit these days in retail repairs than in a new vehicle sale though.

Tony.
 

Redline

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There's much more profit these days in retail repairs than in a new vehicle sale though.

Tony.
There is when you look at the rates they charge. The day rate is close to what I would charge for my time. But it takes a lot more people and it's the people plus their roof and tools that cost a lot of money. On top of that the stock holding is an expensive way to burn money. Maintenance and repairs are distress purchases that no one wants to make. Selling on the other hand is a big wedge in one hit.
 

t-tony

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And that's the side of the business I increasingly dislike Ian. I'm looking for a way out of it.

Tony.
 

oldcarman

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Have two birthdays a year @t-tony will get you there faster!! Lol. But then again I am retired so what do I know!! Be glad you're healthy enough to still work it beats the alternatives! JIM
 

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These are the main criteria re disc, pads etc.
g. a brake lining or pad insecure or less than 1.5 mm thick at any point


h. a brake disc or drum contaminated by brake fluid, oil or grease

i. a brake disc or drum in such a condition that it is seriously weakened or insecure

Here is a link to the MOT tester's manual in PDF form, you can access it for free,

https://www.gov.uk/topic/mot/manuals

Tony.
Hi, completely agree. Ex MOT tester in a previous life.
H
 

Redline

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Hi, completely agree. Ex MOT tester in a previous life.
H
The stealer just lost loads of work. Only the roll-bar issue needs to be sorted. The brakes they quoted at 13.5mm thickness. Thought that was interesting when I found out they are only 12mm when new. They also quoted over £100 more for the parts than you can get retail.
Their hourly rate is what mine is too - I'm not paying that rate for a grease monkey :eek:
 
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