Remote locking not working

[Duncraig]

I've had my 1.9 Z3 2000 year for about six weeks now and thanks to information and help from this site gradually getting the silly niggles fixed with the exception of the remote locking. It central locks with the key in both the door and the boot lock so that part is OK. I fitted a new battery to the key and I've been through all the various ways to code the key but no joy. The key LED flashes as it is supposed to when trying to program but he lock still doesn't activate. Where should I look first or is there an existing thread that will give me help?

 

[mrscalex]

My area of knowledge is more around the EWS/immobiliser aspect of the key and non-starting issues. The remote function is totally separate and only kept in the same housing (ie key) for convenience. But I’ll have a go

Are you sure the syncing procedure you have is the correct one for a Z3? Have you used a procedure from this forum or one from elsewhere?

You need to narrow down if it’s the car end or the key end.

Do you have other keys that work okay?

Is this a new key that has never worked?

If it’s your only key you could get a donor key from eBay and try the PCB from that. It would be £5-10.

I think the receiver on the car is around the rear view mirror. But I’ve never heard of one failing. I’m not sure what circuit it’s on but I guess a blown fuse is a possibility.

If your central locking is working okay off the key I don’t think this would be a loom of doom issue in the boot.

 

[Duncraig]

Thanks, there was a loom of doom which caused the High level Brake light and boot light to be faulty but that is one of the niggles now fixed with a kit off eBay. I got three keys with the car, a remote, a valet key, and a plastic master type key. I looked at the fuses associated with the remote according to the list inside the fusebox but there might be another one lurking elsewhere. It did have a tracking device in the boot but the only wires to that were 12V and ground. Removing that didn't change anything. I appreciate the quick reply and weather permitting I'll have another go tomorrow

 

[Duncraig]

I removed the panel under the steering column and found a Radio Burglar Alarm Module according to Real OEM parts manual. Coding the key may be more difficult with the system in place?

 

[mrscalex]

I removed the panel under the steering column and found a Radio Burglar Alarm Module according to Real OEM parts manual. Coding the key may be more difficult with the system in place?

No other actions needed to sync the remote apart from the procedure itself. Definitely no need to disconnect anything - unless it's tracing a fault which might be stopping the syncing but I doubt this.

Try both of these. Same procedure but worded slightly differently.

https://zroadster.org/threads/programming-your-bmw-z3-key-fob.11492/

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1843887-Re-initializing-your-key-the-correct-way

If you re-sync one key then I believe you need to resync all other keys too.

 

[Sean d]

Does the 1.9 have the rocker switch in the EWS behind the glove box, this worked for my 2.8, straight forward to do

 

[Duncraig]

Does the 1.9 have the rocker switch in the EWS behind the glove box, this worked for my 2.8, straight forward to do

I haven't noticed a rocker switch. Does this entail removing the glove box?

 

[Duncraig]

No other actions needed to sync the remote apart from the procedure itself. Definitely no need to disconnect anything - unless it's tracing a fault which might be stopping the syncing but I doubt this.

Try both of these. Same procedure but worded slightly differently.

https://zroadster.org/threads/programming-your-bmw-z3-key-fob.11492/

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1843887-Re-initializing-your-key-the-correct-way

If you re-sync one key then I believe you need to resync all other keys too.

Thanks that's the method I've been using. When the button is released the LED flashes 10 times and then goes out. No reaction on the locking system while the LED flashes.

 

[Sean d]

I haven't noticed a rocker switch. Does this entail removing the glove box?

Yes, glove box out to access the module, there is a thread on here somewhere with full instuctions, I tried all the reprogramming moves and nothing worked but the rocker switch method worked a treat

 

[Duncraig]

Glove box out, EWS out but no sign of a rocker switch. Is it an extra lead that has to be used to program the EWS? I'll continue searching the forums meantime

 

[mrscalex]

Are you sure you mean EWS @Sean d ? On all the cars I've seen including pre-facelift 1.9s it's on the driver's side. And it doesn't have a rocker switch or anything to do with the remote operation. The closest it comes is checking the status of the deadlock.

Do you mean the GM IV body control module? That sits behind the glove box and is responsible for central locking operations. But I've never seen one with a rocker switch?

 

[Sean d]

Are you sure you mean EWS @Sean d ? On all the cars I've seen including pre-facelift 1.9s it's on the driver's side. And it doesn't have a rocker switch or anything to do with the remote operation. The closest it comes is checking the status of the deadlock.

Do you mean the GM IV body control module? That sits behind the glove box and is responsible for central locking operations. But I've never seen one with a rocker switch?

Not sure what module mate, but its black and has a tiny hole, the switch is inside the small hole, it rocks to one side with a small screwdriver at this point you press the remote button, the car locks, press again to unlock and put the rocker switch back in the lock position

 

[mrscalex]

I think that's going to be the GM IV. Which looks like this. Never noticed that hole there before. And certainly didn't know about a reset switch so learnt something new here.

 

[Duncraig]

Just looked at my GM IV and couldn't see any small holes so opened it up and there doesn't seem to be a switch on either side of the board

 

[mrscalex]

It could well be the module at fault. I can send you one to try if you PM me although I’m away until the weekend.

 

[Duncraig]

It could well be the module at fault. I can send you one to try if you PM me although I’m away until the weekend.

Thanks for the offer I'll contact you nearer the weekend. I'm beginning to suspect some kind of interaction or failure of the BMW alarm installed in the car. RealOEM shows there to be a siren, two contact switches and a tell tale indicator none of which I can find. Looking back at the service records one garage repair was to the passenger seat sensor mat and "broken plug pins" The repair was wires spliced and wrapped in tape! That is not the only evidence of rough repairs on the car and I've just found the horn attached to the chassis with two Ty-wraps. It might well be further bodges causing the fault. At least the central locking works and lack of remote is just an inconvenience.

 

[Duncraig]

Well success at last!
I've faffed about with various things, new key battery, different sync procedures but nothing worked so I decided to do a logical fault find.
I removed and dismantled the interior mirror and buzzed out cable from the board to the socket at the windscreen and all good. With power back on I found there was only 1.4V to pin 2 which is the permanent feed to the receiver. I couldn't find where the green / red wire went into the fusebox as it's very thin and there's a mass of wires down there so I spliced a feed to the board from the permanent feed to the analogue clock and the key synced at the first attempt. Splicing power feed not up to BMW standards (?) but hey it works and one happy bunny!

 

[t-tony]

Well done on finding out why it wasn't working. Maybe if you can access a wiring diagram you might be able to locate where the green/red wire goes .

Tony.

 

[Duncraig]

Tony if anyone can tell me where splice X1234 as shown on the diagram is located then I'll happily use it. The BMW wiring is the most unfriendly ill-logical diagram I've ever encountered even from my analogue computer troubleshooting back in the early '70s. I've tapped into the clock feed and the alarm LED now flashes when the car is locked as well.

 

[mrscalex]

I have to admit I find the wiring diagrams okay. I usually have to study them for a while but that’s me I feel rather than the diagram. But I get there in the end.