Z3 engine swap

JAMZILLA321

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I have a 1999 UK BMW z3 1.8 - i think its m43b19 but not too sure, anyway, I think I have a head gasket issue because sometimes I have a lot of smoke coming from exhaust that I’d call sweet smelling however sometimes no smoke is visible at all (not sure what the issue is to be honest the car has been stood for 4+ years) and when I did an oil change after trying to revive it i over tightened the bolt and now it doesn’t tighten all the way, I don’t know what would be better - to swap the engine out and put a new one in or repair current issues - any advice appreciated:) any questions just ask I will try answer to best of my knowledge
 

Andyboy

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Repair what you have. These are all old engines now and they were known for head gasket failure.

You will need a head skim (with the front timing cover fitted), new head bolts plus all the plastic coolant elbows. Use a BMW or Reinz head gasket.

Replacing the sump is a bit of an arse though.
 

JAMZILLA321

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So I definitely have head gasket failure? If so - how much will it cost to get a mechanic to do it or do you think I am capable doing it myself? Also if I over tightened the nut is it likely to get away with just buying a new nut?
 

Andyboy

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What nut have you overtightened?
 

Andyboy

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Ah the drain plug. You'll have pulled the threads out of the alloy sump. A secondhand sump is the best plan.

You're looking at about £800 to do a head gasket on an M43. The last one I did came to that on an E36 316i Compact. They aren't too tragic to do, just the usual snapped downpipe studs etc.
 

IainP

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Head gasket failure on these engines is usually a result of overheating.
If it’s been stood that length of time there’s often a build up of condensation in the exhaust. That can take some considerable time to clear.
I’d do a compression test first. If you don’t have access to a gauge you could try a ‘bodger’ test. Run it to temp, whip out the plugs, wait 10-15 mins, spin over the engine (coil disconnected), any cylinders with water leaks will fire it out the plug hole. Helps if you have a helper. If it’s really bad, you’ll often get steam out the plug hole as soon as you whip em out.
Sumps are easy to find and cheap, probably cheaper than buying an insert kit, which would still necessitate taking the sump off. As Andyboy says, the sump is a pain to do.
Hesitate to say it’s not a difficult job, as I’ve done a few, it is fairly time consuming to do it properly.
Only tricky bit is getting the front pulley off/on the crank, need a special tool for that, but it’s easy to make.
Add your location to your profile, may be someone close who could help you out.
 

t-tony

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I wouldn’t change the sump pan just for a stripped drain plug thread, I would get a heicoil fitted, we used to do them where I worked without removing the sump.

Tony.
 

IainP

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I wouldn’t change the sump pan just for a stripped drain plug thread, I would get a heicoil fitted, we used to do them where I worked without removing the sump.

Tony.
So would I Tony, having a kit of inserts and a habit of buying cars where things have been butchered. Another sump is £25 delivered from eBay (usually), an appropriate kit would likely cost him at least that. Not the first time I’ve taken a sump plug out to find an insert came with it, because whoever fitted it didn’t really know how.
Zedshed job would sort it.
 

JAMZILLA321

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Okay so with the head gasket are we definitely sure it is that? Maybe I should get an omd scanner and check that it’s definitely that so I don’t fix issues that don’t need fixing because it runs really well and the smoke is only occasional (but the last memories I have of it running before it sitting for 4+ years was it overheating. The smoke only being there sometimes might be due to my pathetic attempt at using head gasket sealer which I didn’t even use properly because I didn’t shake the bottle before hand - don’t let a 16 year old work on your car.) and if it is the head gasket which it sounds like it is can I just take the valve cover off and whatever is underneath plop the old one off and new one on and reassemble everything or would I have to have some special thing to resurface the block I don’t know anything about doing that
 

JAMZILLA321

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I can’t upload videos here? I could show you some videos of it running perfectly with no smoke whatsoever and a video of when it first started which shows the white smoke that I sometimes see which makes me think head gasket
 

IainP

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White smoke is steam.
If the gasket is gone it’ll steam/smoke constantly, usually. If it’s only started occasionally you’ll have condensation in the exhaust, then it has to evaporate that off.
Do you have access to a compression tester gauge? That tells you if all the cylinders are firing equally. If not, get it warm, switch off and immediately pull the plugs, see if you have any steam coming out the plug holes.
Make sure there’s coolant in it, and when the temp comes up a bit you’re getting heat from the heater.
Sealers are really Hail Mary solutions, cracked block/head etc. They can work really well in that situation, I’ve used one several times, never for a gasket though, as they can block a heater core quite efficiently.
Does your school have a Tech dept. who may be willing to lend you tools?
 

Paul Jan

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I think you are mistaking the head gasket for the valve cover. Your problem could be the head gasket. This one is seated between the cylinder head and the engine block And is much more work than replacing the valve cover gasket. The valve cover gasket is situated between the valve cover end the cylinder head.
 

Mus Musculus

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White smoke is steam.
Yeah, I am not a very good mechanic by any stretch, but white smoke like that (particularly sporadically) does look to me like condensation.I had a similar thing on my car after I bought it, but at the height of winter.

There's not a sign of any smoke coming out of the exhaust anymore (after a few running miles).
 

JAMZILLA321

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so the head gasket could be good? That’s good news. And no, no tech department unfortunately :/
White smoke is steam.
If the gasket is gone it’ll steam/smoke constantly, usually. If it’s only started occasionally you’ll have condensation in the exhaust, then it has to evaporate that off.
Do you have access to a compression tester gauge? That tells you if all the cylinders are firing equally. If not, get it warm, switch off and immediately pull the plugs, see if you have any steam coming out the plug holes.
Make sure there’s coolant in it, and when the temp comes up a bit you’re getting heat from the heater.
Sealers are really Hail Mary solutions, cracked block/head etc. They can work really well in that situation, I’ve used one several times, never for a gasket though, as they can block a heater core quite efficiently.
Does your school have a Tech dept. who may be willing to lend you tools?
 
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