Updated 2021 Tyre Thread for avoiding tramlining on bigger wheelsets

[Peawee]

Hi all
Something ive noticed when trawling through the archives is ,i cant find anywhere a thread about tyres for minimising tramlining thats not 5-6 years old at best.

Everything i find mentions Avon ZV5s and the falken ZE912 & ZE914 etc which are now obsoloete tyres.
Im wondering if everyone can contribute on what they are running on larger wheels with low profiles that mitigate tramlining in 2021 on our chassis.

Yes im asking because ive some Style 108's currently on runflats that are trying to kill me on country roads so i figured if im looking others must be too

Any help would be appreciated

 

[137699]

My M Coupe came with Goodyear Eagle F1 all round and I've never noticed any issue with tramlining...
TBH I can't really see how tyres would affect it anyway - tread pattern only really makes a difference to wet weather handling. If your car is tramlining then I'd suggest it's more to do with wheel alignment than tyres.

 

[Eddie Zedder]

I could be wrong, but I've never heard of anyone using run flats on a Z3 before. I would dump them for new asap and get the alignment checked. If possible borrow some wheels off another Zed to compare. If the tramlining is still there then you need to start looking at changing out bushes / suspension components.

 

[Alan Slade]

I bought a set of style 108 wheels some time ago to put on my Z3. The front tyres on the wheels were run flats. When I put them on my car it was completely undrivable. I changed the front tyres to normal radials and there was a marked improvement. The car still didn’t handle as well as with the original 16” wheels and I have put those back on.
I do however much prefer the look of the car with the 108s and I believe I should have bought better quality tyres and probably will in the future.

 

[the Nefyn cat]

Mine used to tramline horribly when I first got it, Goodyears on the front, two different Chinese makes on the back. Matching Avons all round sorted it, ZZ3s to start wIth, ZV7s now.

 

[t-tony]

Same with mine too, miss matched Siamese Slippers all round when I bought it. Set of decent tyres transformed the car.

Tony.

 

[Mario]

Personal experience after much testing, different tires will make the problem more evident or mask the problem, but ultimately worn suspension components and suspension setup play the biggest role, I changed the track rod end arms (not just the ends as the arms have a knuckle that was knackered on mine), front wishbone rear bushes and a good toe alignment to put the tires angle specs at the limit of the factory spec so the steering has a lot more weight to put it on center and it transformed the car.

 

[t-tony]

I agree, but working where I did and doing the job I did that was where I started. But, it was the tyres that were at fault in the end.

Tony

 

[Peawee]

Yeah the style 108 wheels are from the z4 m-sport and come with RSC run flat spec tyres
The ones currently fitted to it are bridgestone potenza

All my front end is new from the steering wheel down to the wheels
Steering column replaced
Steering rack is new (refurb purple tag)
Track rod ends and arms are new
Bottom arms new along with ball joints
Polybushed lollipop mounts
Struts are new
Springs new
top mounts new
The only thing not replaced is the hub itself

Steering response to the wheels looks accurate when i check in stationary position and it handles like its on rails on flat roads its when i come to uneven backroads its like a donkey, throwing me around all over. The only difference i see is when i have a passenger the car feels more stable at 50/60 on backroads but still unpredicatable.

Ill check out some zv7's then, is a strut mount worth considering or is it just a placebo once fitted

 

[Mario]

Check that the alignment is done properly also, it needs to have some weight on the car on certain places simulating the driver, if when the alignment was done the car was empty then when you are sitting on it it's going to tilt it to the driver side, and the alignment might be off, that's maybe why it feels better when you have a passenger in the car as it will balance the car more towards the balance that it had when it was aligned. Also the alignment will be "right" within a set of specs given by the manufacturer say on a "Hunter" machine, if your car is lowered etc those values won't maybe be valid and in any case within that range you can tweak it for max toe in angle within the specs.

 

[mrscalex]

108s are my favourite BMW wheel. I tried them once on a Z3 and the tramlining was so bad they had to come back off. I just didn't have the patience to work out how to improve it. Much but not all of the suspension was new. If I was doing it again I'd make sure the suspension and steering were 100% before moving on to tyre selection. Though I don't doubt that is also an important factor.

 

[gookah]

I had alignments done, new poly wishbone bushes, new shocks and springs, and even a strut brace, tried all tyre pressure recommendations
non of them cured my tramlining,
but 2 new tyres did immediately.

 

[andyglym]

I had run flats on my 18" MV3's, nearly rattled the car and me to death and was a contributor to a cracked rear wheel. Avons will be put on once fixed, if deemed fixable.

 

[Peawee]

This is another factor for me loosing the run flats, mine just failed the mot on two cracked rear wheels that cost me a few £££ to get straightened and welded by a specialist not just a powder and paint company having ago at it. The test station reckon its common in new BM's aswell, they have been failing even new m series cars because of cracked wheels, he says its a trait of bmw that he cant understand why they havent it fixed over the years. He puts most if not all of it down to the run flats on low profile tyres causing them to go on our bad roads

Booked in to get some ZV7's fitted along with an alignment so hopefully that sorts the issue.

 

[t-tony]

It is the state of our roads that causes wheels to crack, it’s not BMWs fault. On decent road surfaces they would be fine. The Govt. were poised to spend a lot of money on the roads until Covid got in the way.

Tony.

 

[Dino D]

Echo every thing that’s said here about fresh suspension and tyres.

I’ve found (by test fitting various wheel with part worns) that it’s more about matching brands and tread and not using a part worn tyres anywhere, even on the rear.


I’d add: ideally go to someone who does plenty of BMWs - they seem more sensitive to alignment than other cars (because RWD?).


Definitely avoid run flats- they make big heavy 6 series skip around, can’t imagine what they would do on the Z3 (that said I believe the latest a Michelin RFT are better but probably a few £ more than regular)

 

[Peawee]

Well some consumer feedback, popped down to national tyres on friday to get some ZV7's fitted and an alignment up the front end.......

I honestly cannot believe the difference. It makes no sense to me how tyres can have this much effect on how a car feels over all the other changes ive made. Obviously tyres are the direct point of contact with the road so better sets make the car handle better but this has completely changed how the car behaves. Practically all steering issues have gone i have a little bumpsteer from the lowering kit and poly bushes but thats fine ive had a few cars which have been on sports springs so im used to it. If anyone is on the fence about getting these, make the jump its unbelivable.

It has made me aware that i have some marginal play in my new/refurb steering rack mind so might need to play with the preload abit to fettle that out, seems more apparent when less weight is in the car, but apart from that happy days!
Feel like ive got more out of some new tyres than when i had the entire back end out and restored which was a week long job in after work hours

 

[Mint]

Well some consumer feedback, popped down to national tyres on friday to get some ZV7's fitted and an alignment up the front end.......

I honestly cannot believe the difference. It makes no sense to me how tyres can have this much effect on how a car feels over all the other changes ive made. Obviously tyres are the direct point of contact with the road so better sets make the car handle better but this has completely changed how the car behaves. Practically all steering issues have gone i have a little bumpsteer from the lowering kit and poly bushes but thats fine ive had a few cars which have been on sports springs so im used to it. If anyone is on the fence about getting these, make the jump its unbelivable.

It has made me aware that i have some marginal play in my new/refurb steering rack mind so might need to play with the preload abit to fettle that out, seems more apparent when less weight is in the car, but apart from that happy days!
Feel like ive got more out of some new tyres than when i had the entire back end out and restored which was a week long job in after work hours

Great feedback and confirms previous conclusions, enjoy your new drive

 

[Nodzed]

The place that does my tyres and alignment has a 4 wheel tracking equipment, its the same bloke always operating the machine. Took the Z3M there some years ago and he measured all the suspension and track as he said once you add spacers and lower the car the values from BMW that get entered into the equipment goes out the window. By measuring it all up he could enter the new values and compensate any rear issues from the spacers and lowering via the front tracking. Basically a bespoke setup. What he was saying was if the car has been altered and new values aren't used the geometry of the suspension setup will never be correct and handling will be affected, to what degree I have no idea but, I was impressed by the detail he went to.

 

[ATM]

Question about the ZV7s if I may? I see them listed with and without XL rating for heavy load. W speed rating already looks way overkill for my 1.9 M44, is there benefit in going for the XLs in the opinion of those that have tried them?