Suspension Upgrades

[Wilko58]

I've read a few threads on uprated shocks/lowered springs and OEM shocks/springs but has anyone uprated their shocks and kept the standard ride height on OEM or uprated springs?

Also any feedback on the Spax kits (read plenty on the Bilsteins!)?

Cheers

 

[Bozzy]

I'm glad you started this thread @Wilko58,as I've been trying to weigh up the pros and cons of replacing my suspension for Bilstein lowered set up,or weather to replace it with oem or similar.
Was talking to @yocky z3 2.0 at the weekend,he'd lowered his,but went back to a standard set up.

Steve

 

[Wilko58]

I'm thinking of fitting a strong strut kit which takes up 20mm of ground clearance so dropping with the Eibachs for example would mean 50mm less road clearance and given our roads that might not be a good idea!

 

[Bozzy]

I'm thinking of fitting a strong strut kit which takes up 20mm of ground clearance so dropping with the Eibachs for example would mean 50mm less road clearance and given our roads that might not be a good idea!

That's the problem,our roads are not great which has stopped me lowering it.
Ant fitted one of those body brace kits and his car is low,so he took it off shortly after.

 

[t-tony]

I'm thinking of fitting a strong strut kit which takes up 20mm of ground clearance so dropping with the Eibachs for example would mean 50mm less road clearance and given our roads that might not be a good idea!

Firstly, I would decide on which suspension kit you want and fit it (my Z3 came with K&W suspension and it drove like it was on rails!) then maybe buy a front strut brace to add a little more rigidity at the front end. Before that though are you happy that all the front end bushes and ball joints are in good order?

Tony.

 

[Wilko58]

Tony, I had a report done by Darren Wood BMW Specialist and as well as all the wheels being buckled (it's on 18" Schnitzers by previous owner) the steering spindle (?) is badly corroded, there's slight play in the offside front steering knuckle joint, the front coil spring seating rubbers are slightly worn, the front ARB bushes are worn, the rear sub-frame bushes are worn, the rear diff mount bush is split and worn (and the left side welds in the boot are showing signs of rust) and the brakes and pipes were all badly corroded!

To be honest, I didn't really know where to start so just decided to do it all but from reading what I've written maybe the suspension should be last but still do all the bushes and brakes - I've only got 10 days until the MOT is due so need to get cracking but trying to decide if I'm brave/fit enough to try and do it all myself. Any advice appreciated!

 

[Wilko58]

That's the problem,our roads are not great which has stopped me lowering it.
Ant fitted one of those body brace kits and his car is low,so he took it off shortly after.

So he had the kit fitted AND lowered suspension? And that's why I'm asking as there are quite a few people who have praised the strong strut kit and it got me thinking - but then again.....

 

[Ianmc]

To my mind, it depends on how you intend to use the car. Suspension is a compromise between comfort, looks and handling - OEMs spend a lot of time and money to get this right (albeit cost of components does of course impact). I prefer to stay with the OEM setup for road use.

 

[andyglym]

Mine is on Bilsteins and has been lowered by 30mm on Eibachs. I live on a farm and flat the access track ain't! No problems getting in and out. Frequently blat around the Lakes on single track "roads" (more bumpy than a teenagers face), again, no issues. By comparison most roads are as smooth as a baby's bum. Oh, went for that direction of change on looks alone, handles well

 

[andyglym]

To my mind, it depends on how you intend to use the car. Suspension is a compromise between comfort, looks and handling - OEMs spend a lot of time and money to get this right (albeit cost of components does of course impact). I prefer to stay with the OEM setup for road use.

Yup, fair comments. Mine is purely the looks department.

 

[Ianmc]

Yup, fair comments. Mine is purely the looks department

Like my wife (who doesn't visit this site!!

 

[5harp3y]

ive got bilstein b4 shocks all round and eibach 30mm lowering springs.

looks right and drives right

 

[Antm72]

So he had the kit fitted AND lowered suspension? And that's why I'm asking as there are quite a few people who have praised the strong strut kit and it got me thinking - but then again.....

My car was low to start with but when the butt strut and body brace where on although it handled supurb and felt very tight the clearance i had worried me slightly so i removed it.
If it struck some thing it could have been nasty.
My car is on Apex springs so as low as any spring kit goes bar coilovers and this was its clearance.

Just under 100mm clearance never caught anything but was always a little concerning although the body brace would take any brunt.

 

[t-tony]

Tony, I had a report done by Darren Wood BMW Specialist and as well as all the wheels being buckled (it's on 18" Schnitzers by previous owner) the steering spindle (?) is badly corroded, there's slight play in the offside front steering knuckle joint, the front coil spring seating rubbers are slightly worn, the front ARB bushes are worn, the rear sub-frame bushes are worn, the rear diff mount bush is split and worn (and the left side welds in the boot are showing signs of rust) and the brakes and pipes were all badly corroded!

To be honest, I didn't really know where to start so just decided to do it all but from reading what I've written maybe the suspension should be last but still do all the bushes and brakes - I've only got 10 days until the MOT is due so need to get cracking but trying to decide if I'm brave/fit enough to try and do it all myself. Any advice appreciated!

The hardest part to do yourself would be the rear subframe beam bushes, but, they are unlikely to fail the M.O.T. the brake pipe corrosion is most likely to be a fail as it's hard to assess and some testers cop out by failing them to be "on the safe side" which is better safe than sorry. Why wait until the test is due, you can do it up to 30 days before the old one expires and if it passes the extra days will be added to the year.
The beam bushes require special tools to remove and re fit and reasonable physical strength (no offence intended) if you do them "on the car" alternatively you have to remove the rear axle assembly like @Steve Medlock has just done.

Tony.

 

[pgunter]

My 2.2 is on Eibachs and handles like a dream. The only issue being is speed humps.. and some places where you grit your teeth and hope for the best. Its not that often but does make you cry when it happens.

I am keeping the 3.0 as stock set up as its more for a euro cruiser.

 

[t-tony]

The only thing on mine that catches on uneven roads, such as the Willingham lane rally stage last September, are the hard plastic splash guards in front of my front wheels. They make an horrendous racket but don't seem to be getting any shorter though!

Tony.

 

[peteslag]

If you click on the link in my signature bar you will find some little pearls of wisdom. I really liked the Eibach springs, in my opinion it completely transformed the car even with standard shocks. I later fitted Bilstein shocks and I wish I hadn't bothered. They were expensive compared to OEM and they didn't make a big enough difference to warrant the extra cash. On the track they were noticeably better but track days are few and far between for me. For the most part my Z3 was a road car. When you were pushing the car the Bilsteins were marginally better but the problem was that British roads are crap. The OEM shocks gave a much nicer ride over poor road conditions. I seem to remember praising the B8's at the time but the longer I had them on the car the more I noticed it.

It is unlikely that I'll own another Z3 but if I did it over again, I'd upgrade to Eibachs and make sure the suspension bushes were in good order............and probably leave it at that. I locked horns with many Z3M's and M3's at Oulton Park with this set up, I never felt out of my league that's for sure.

 

[Wilko58]

Thanks for the picture @antm62 - says a thousand words!
Thanks for all the other comments which are all very interesting and have made me think again about certain things!
@t-tony I think it will fail the MOT so didn't think there was any point paying for one and then paying again but now think that it might give me a plan of action! Thanks for the info about the bushes and knew about the rear beam being difficult and was thinking of taking the whole lot out and getting it done at a garage.
@peteslag good write up (like the second version of the rear light chrome) - I'll have to have a closer look at my car as I'm sure it doesn't ride as high as in your 'before' photos so wonder if it's already been lowered. I'll post a side picture.
I'll start a progress page!

 

[t-tony]

Even if it does fail you have 10 working days to repair and return for re test, (effectively 2 weeks) so hopefully you'll be able to complete repairs ok.

Tony.

 

[Wilko58]

I wish @t-tony but with ordering & deliveries not to mention a bad back and knackered shoulder it's going to be a slow progress although the advantage is I don't work weekdays