Seat Bushing Notes… post op.

Rodders67

Dedicated Member
American Zeds
Joined
Jun 20, 2023
Points
39
Location
Indy
Model of Z
Z3M
After changing seat 3x on driverside and single time on passenger, take or leave what I offer below.

1. Once you unbolt seat, tilting it forward is easier access to power connections.

2. When you pull seat out, recommend you note slide position before and after the bushings are in trolley block. Then ensure they are both even prior to returning seat.

3. There is drive cable (on ‘99) that you feed into shaft first, then when sliding acme screw into track… guide cable as it curves up into motor dog coupling.

4 Double check you have both slides attached with 25 torx screws when returning seats to car. If you have messed up, these can be tightened from front when unbolting seat, in situ (not recommended).

5 two main Molex connectors have wing tabs which you squeeze on removable connectors. The other smaller connectors are keyed, and have dimple lock pin… but simply pull apart. Passenger side has added seat sensor which will slide from white bracket to help disconnect.

5 Check seat slide for binding prior to mounting screws to car floor.

6. Shaving, filing bushings is recommended for fit into trolley block. The block will be full of destroyed plastic rubber remnants. You’ll need flat screwdriver to clean it all out and prevent from getting into acme screw.

7. Things you need in addition to Bushings. The Torx Screws on slides should get blue loctite when reassemble through slide to trolley block. Grease slides and screws. If you don’t have a 50 Torx, a 6 Allen will work on screw bracket screw.

Tools. Torx bit 25 and 50 (optional 6mm Allen)
Sockets… 13mm and 16mm (optional 5/8). My metric socket set skips 16 from 13,15,17.
Flat File or Rasp
Flat Screwdriver for cleaning block.
Grease.
Loctite.
Patience… 3-4hr job.

Enjoy solid seating position with downshifting.

Rodders
 

ExMX5owner

Moderator
Staff member
Global Moderator
Supporter
Australian Zeds
Joined
Aug 31, 2022
Points
126
Location
Queensland, Australia
Model of Z
99 2.0
After changing seat 3x on driverside and single time on passenger, take or leave what I offer below.

1. Once you unbolt seat, tilting it forward is easier access to power connections.

2. When you pull seat out, recommend you note slide position before and after the bushings are in trolley block. Then ensure they are both even prior to returning seat.

3. There is drive cable (on ‘99) that you feed into shaft first, then when sliding acme screw into track… guide cable as it curves up into motor dog coupling.

4 Double check you have both slides attached with 25 torx screws when returning seats to car. If you have messed up, these can be tightened from front when unbolting seat, in situ (not recommended).

5 two main Molex connectors have wing tabs which you squeeze on removable connectors. The other smaller connectors are keyed, and have dimple lock pin… but simply pull apart. Passenger side has added seat sensor which will slide from white bracket to help disconnect.

5 Check seat slide for binding prior to mounting screws to car floor.

6. Shaving, filing bushings is recommended for fit into trolley block. The block will be full of destroyed plastic rubber remnants. You’ll need flat screwdriver to clean it all out and prevent from getting into acme screw.

7. Things you need in addition to Bushings. The Torx Screws on slides should get blue loctite when reassemble through slide to trolley block. Grease slides and screws. If you don’t have a 50 Torx, a 6 Allen will work on screw bracket screw.

Tools. Torx bit 25 and 50 (optional 6mm Allen)
Sockets… 13mm and 16mm (optional 5/8). My metric socket set skips 16 from 13,15,17.
Flat File or Rasp
Flat Screwdriver for cleaning block.
Grease.
Loctite.
Patience… 3-4hr job.

Enjoy solid seating position with downshifting.

Rodders
I stuck masking tape on my rails and marked them, but yes you did exactly what I did, but took a bit longer because I enjoy working on my Z and savor every moment... :whistle:
 
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