PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE:
Update. I decided to tackle several maintenance tasks on the Z3 - completed today; and everything works!.
FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT
The task itself was easy enough with the car on axle stands, but beware and take a close look at the fuel feed lines; on the 3.0i there are three rigid plastic lines connected to braided rubber hoses running through various support fixings. My lines had degraded and fractured when released from the filter; not cheap to replace (300€) - but what is!
VALVE COVER GASKET.
I followed the guidance in the YouTube ‘how to’ video links below and although, on the face of it, this task looks quite detailed, the job was straightforward enough. I did however use a little dab of Loctite 222 on the blind nut threads and torqued nuts down (10 Nm or 7 ft/lbs).
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-TLgNCmTlY
&
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6MwYafETIA&t=189s
PCV REPLACEMENT - Removal.
Whist I had the bonnet up I also decided to to replace the PCV valve with the complete set of connected pipes; I opted to do this with the inlet manifold in situ. Access to the PCV is space restricted and various ancillary items and electrical connectors have to be shifted out of the way; and although it’s a painstaking task, slow and steady with attention to detail and its not difficult to remove, but it’s awkward so allow plenty of time. You Tube has various how to videos for the M54 engine, the procedure is much the same for the Z3, except there is no need to remove the dip stick tube.
I found it nigh on impossible to release the existing PCV connections so once access is gained it’s simpler and quicker remove the two Pan Head Torx 25 screws holding the PCV in place to allow some wriggle room to cut the pipes.
PCV - Replacement.
I bought the Fibi Bilstein 46303 kit recommended earlier by AntStark; I also got a replacement gasket for the throttle housing assy. (one of the many items that need to be shifted out of the way). I found no easy way to install the new PCV; it’s bloody awkward lining up the connections. But if you loosely fix the PCV to hold it in place (again giving some wriggle room) access is a tad easier, and silicone aerosol spay also helped lubricate the connections. I started with the ‘crook’ vent tube from beneath the top cover by the inlet manifold rail; the ‘click’, as with all the connections, confirms it’s fixed home. Next was the vent return pipe from the ‘crook’ spigot running alongside the inlet manifold to the connection at the rear; then the connection from the ventilation hose on the valve cover box; and then the feed from the PCV to the dip stick holder. Finally tighten the two PCV retaining screws and double check connections before reinstating all the ancillary kit and electrical connectors. There are many You Tube videos available but I found these two good for attention to detail -
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMwVe0NAcZs&t=454s
and part 2
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNtxwErvhz0&t=301s
DISA - Upgrade.
It’s recommended that the DISA should be checked for any issues after 50,000 miles; the flap on mine was suspect and the pin holding it in place was loose, so I upgraded the unit with a replacement flap kit; YouTube has videos on this too. X8R Ltd is a reputable supplier of the DISA upgrade parts. Cautionary note; there are two kits available for the M54, so make sure you order the right one for your engine size – they’re not interchangeable. X8R include pdf ‘how to’ downloads and guarantee parts for the life of the engine.
https://x8r.co.uk/bmw/bmw-disa-repair-kits.html
VANOS
I also decided to replace the Vanos oil feed pipe. The Vanos operation seems okay, with no signs of issues. But @ 122,000 miles I will refurbish that when the piggy bank recovers. X8R also have a selection of Vanos refurb kits.
Doing the jobs m’self saved several hundred in labour and I have the peace of mind of a job well done with OEM or equivalent spec. parts supplied that are fit for purpose.