Lowering isnt lower?

Chamber66

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My eibach lowering springs don't seem to have made any difference. Surely they won't settle that much?
Accidently created 2 posts trying to upload pics
 
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Stevo7682

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Do you have any before and after pics.
The eibach should lower a standard zed by 30mm.
I have 2 pre face-lift 2.8 zed at mine just now ( one mine one another forum member) mine sits standard the other is on eibach springs and sits notably lower Stephen.
 

Chamber66

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No idea, I shall check tomorrow, 5mm wouldn't make that much difference would it?
Look at the pic I posted still a big gap on 17" wheels, how much would they settle?
 

t-tony

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How much have you driven it on the new springs, and was it a bumpy road? We fitted some lowering springs on Grumps old Z3 one Saturday at the Shed. When we'd done we thought "that was a waste of time". But, after a few miles around local roads it settled a lot.

Tony.
 

Stevo7682

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I will measure the difference between mine and @Scooblitz ZED when i get home both cars have had rear end rebuild mine stock Stevie's lowered both on staggered 17 wheels.
What i would say is on the axle rebuild fitted new standard spring pads in attempt to gain a few mm in ride height as Stevie was having major issues with speed humps around where he stays that my zed easily clears .

Stephen.
 

Chamber66

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Thanks to all who replied, after a good hard thrash around the Gower they seem to have settled. Well o e side has so hopefully the other will follow?
 

Scooblitz

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Here's mine before i wrote it off 2 months after this photo. She was at her very best in this photo.

I would perhaps suggest that yours isn't really far off this ride height. Hard to say from pictures but the photo you have is from underneath which usually gives a perspective that it's higher than it is. This photo is from slightly higher giving a more lowered appearance.

The whole rear suspension might need some settling time.

Usually the complaint is that's it's too low with degraded bushings, not low enough.

Do you have a part number for the springs?
IMG_20230715_114910_edit_96740028343050.jpg
 

Stevo7682

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I will post this up since went to the effort of doing it .
The 2 things i would say is both cars sitting on the road on a slight slope.
And Stevie's zed has not been driven in a couple of months and has been jacked up a couple of times so his suspension will not be fully settled.
So measured top or wheel rim to wheel arch.
Stevie's.
Nsf 115mm
Osf 112 mm
Nsr 111mm
Osr 110mm

Mine
Nsf 129mm
Osf 128mm
Nsr 133mm
Osr 131mm

So even as is Stevie's car is 15mm lower at front and 20 mm lower at rear.
Stephen.
 

t-tony

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Surely the point of fitting lowering springs is to lower the cars body? It makes more sense, to me, to measure from the ground (on a flat even surface) up to the lowest point of the wheel arch, before and after springs are fitted.

Tony.
 

Pingu

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Surely the point of fitting lowering springs is to lower the cars body? It makes more sense, to me, to measure from the ground (on a flat even surface) up to the lowest point of the wheel arch, before and after springs are fitted.

Tony.
Flat surface.
Settled suspension.
Vertical measurement from centre of wheel to wheel arch.
 

Nodzed

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The springs will settle.
Just to point out that the spring manufactures always use the cars standard spring setup as their datum point. So if you have bought -30 mm spring and your zed was fitted with sports suspension that is -15mm lower (from the factory) than a non sports suspension zed then the actual drop you would get is -15mm and that's not a huge visual drop to be fair.
Obviously if it was a non sports setup before then the expected drop would be -30mm, still not a huge visual drop.
 
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Andyboy

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The other common mistake is to torque up the rear damper lower 18mm bolts before the car has fully settled. Leave them slightly loose and roll it back and forth a few times (or drive it half a mile) before tightening them with the car on the ground.
 

Pingu

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The other common mistake is to torque up the rear damper lower 18mm bolts before the car has fully settled. Leave them slightly loose and roll it back and forth a few times (or drive it half a mile) before tightening them with the car on the ground.
The same applies to all suspension fasteners. They should be tightened when the suspension is settled.
 

t-tony

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Yeah, I brought up that point many years ago and was told that I was talking out of my arse. Since then the same person has seen the light and now agrees.

Tony.
 

Nodzed

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I'm afraid someone needs to explain this one to me. The shock bolts go through a steel insert in the shock that's just large enough for the bolt then into the hub I dont for the life of me see how the suspension settling would make any difference to a fixed bolt. I'm not saying it's wrong but don't see how it can make a difference.
 

t-tony

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The next time you have a rear shocker removed, before you fit the new one to the top mounting try bolting it to the lower mounting sticking out the back, level to the ground, and tighten the bolt. Lift on the other end, as high as it will go, release it and see what happens.

Tony.
 
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