How To Guide How to do a Full Service of a 1998 2.8L Z3 Roadster including Fuel Filter Change

ktnez99

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Courtesy of @t-tony, @Mint, @Carl Brown et al at #ZedShedMidlands
How to Guide provided by @ktnez99


Remove the rocket cover by using a 10mm socket on the 2 nuts. Using a spark plug socket extension and ratchet, remove the 6 spark plugs.


Remember to keep all screws and nuts in a safe place and don’t get confused with the old and new spark plugs.

We found the 3 back spark plug holes contained excessive oil. Because of this excess oil, we put 4 new spark plugs in from the front and 2 old spark plugs in the 2 back spark plug holes. Tony then sprayed brake cleaner in the 2 back spark plug holes and blew the brake cleaner out with a compressor.



Reassemble the 6 spark plug covers ensuring all connectors are securely pushed in and clipped down.


Screw each spark plug’s 2 bolts into 4 o’clock and 10 o’clock positions.


Don’t forget to put the Earth straps back on each spark plug after installing all 6 new spark plugs.


Remove the air filter cover and the old air filter, vacuum out the inside to ensure there is no debris such as dried leaves and rubbish off the road inside and then slot in the new air filter and re-seal the unit.


Start the engine to warm the old engine oil which ensures it comes out easier as it’s thinner inconsistency.

Lift the dipstick to enable the air and the oil out easily.

Loosen the oil cap.

Jack both front jack points so the car is elevated up.

Now remove the oil sump plug ensuring the collection tray is in the correct position @Grumps


Remove the seal from the top of the oil filter housing. Drips occur of the old oil.




Clean the oil filter cap with multi-purpose cleaner (brake clutch cleaner).


Pop the spindle and cap back together and then add the oil filter and seal.

Rub a little of the new oil around this filter.




Use a 36mm socket on a ratchet to tighten the oil filter.


When all the oil has fully drained out of the engine, refit the sump plug with the new copper washer.


You’ll need the following tools to change the fuel filter:
  • 5mm deep socket

  • 2 x grips to clamp off vice-like the rubber pipes either end of the fuel filter.

  • 10mm deep socket for the heat shield removal which also fits the bracket that fits the filter to the car

  • Trim tool to remove the fuel filter
Remove the fuel filter cover which is located next to the chassis rim on the nearside underneath the car.


You’ll see a rubber pipe at either end of this cylindrical tube-like component and pipe clips.




Obviously, dispose of all used oil and petrol from the old fuel filter safely and responsibly.


Reassembly is the reverse procedure.


10mm socket is used for the bracket that holds the fuel filter to the car.

Use the 5mm socket for tightening the pipe clips.

Position the heat shield cover over the new and fitted fuel filter and secure in place with the 4 nuts that you’ve unscrewed and retained in a safe place to change the filter.


Back to the engine’s oil change now. Lower the nearside after fitting the new fuel filter.

Using a funnel, place this in the oil filler hole and gradually fill with the new engine oil. Check the level of the new oil using the dipstick. At 5 litres, slowly add oil a little at a time, roughly ½ a pint or 250ml at a time as you don’t want to overfill the engine, and keep checking the level using the dipstick.


Run the engine at idle until the oil pressure light goes out and then re-check the oil level using the dipstick - wait a few minutes for the oil level to settle. Once the level is reached, seal the oil cap back in position. If the engine won’t start straight away after changing the fuel filter, simply turn the ignition to pressurise the fuel system.

Cleaning the engine is optional!


All in all, another great day of banter, butties and business concluded courtesy of @t-tony's and Shirl's very generous hosting of #ZedShedMidlands.

Cheers everyone that took part and we hope you find this “How to…” guide of use.

Until the next #ZedShedMidlands,

Ciao!

PS: Here's a link for anyone that's interested to download the pdf file on this "How to..." guide:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qt0kv486w9rn02u/How to Z3 2.8L 1999 Full Service.pdf?dl=0
 
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Grumps

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A good write up Dawn. Oooh and thanks for the mention! =))
 

Pingu

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https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=CH32-EUR-09-1998-Z3-BMW-Z3_28&diagId=11_6223



Don't forget to order two of item 5. They don't come in the kit, but should be replaced at the same time as the filter.

It might also be worth emphasising not to change the filter after the sump plug has been replaced. It is best to remove the filter before removing the sump plug, like you did - but emphasise that it is because old oil from the filter housing drains into the sump. If you remove the sump plug, then remove the filter, the oil from the filter housing is unlikely to be properly drained, or will take a very long time to drain.
 
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Pingu

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Good stuff, but it looks like you have done the replacements for an Inspection 2, but have not included any of the checks. Is there another chapter to come?

https://zroadster.org/threads/bmw-z3-service-schedule.14714/

Oil service = only an oil and filter change
Inspection 1 = oil service + plugs + a load of checks
Inspection 2 = inspection 1 + air filter + fuel filter + more checks
Age related = brake fluid change + coolant change
Unscheduled (supposed to be lifetime) = gearbox oil + diff oil
 

Mazza

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A great write up, but you have missed out the most critical part.......tea and butties =))
 

t-tony

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Good stuff, but it looks like you have done the replacements for an Inspection 2, but have not included any of the checks. Is there another chapter to come?

https://zroadster.org/threads/bmw-z3-service-schedule.14714/

Oil service = only an oil and filter change
Inspection 1 = oil service + plugs + a load of checks
Inspection 2 = inspection 1 + air filter + fuel filter + more checks
Age related = brake fluid change + coolant change
Unscheduled (supposed to be lifetime) = gearbox oil + diff oil
Gear box and Diff. oils were changed about 6 weeks previously and antifreeze changed with thermostat change in between. Brake fluid change on "to do" list. We don't work till midnight so can only do so much in a day.

Tony.
 

Stevo7682

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Great stuff :thumbsup:.

@t-tony that last picture with the bottle of cif. sooo needs to go on a separate thread
' a caption thread ' ;);):)
 
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Pingu

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Gear box and Diff. oils were changed about 6 weeks previously and antifreeze changed with thermostat change in between. Brake fluid change on "to do" list. We don't work till midnight so can only do so much in a day.

Tony.
It's just the title says that it is a full service. Anyone using your notes would miss out some vital checks, such as brake operation and lining thickness. That's the main point I was making. As a former technical author, I can appreciate the amount of work that goes into doing what you have done :thumbsup: (but I can also appreciate the dangers of omissions).
 

t-tony

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So ,if there's a next time, why not send the author a PM instead of showing how smart you are on the public forum.
This is the first time Dawn has done this, to aid those with as much knowledge as she has and as such should be commended not belittled.
I appreciate the comments you have made, just not the way you made them.:)

Tony.
 

ktnez99

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It's just the title says that it is a full service. Anyone using your notes would miss out some vital checks, such as brake operation and lining thickness. That's the main point I was making. As a former technical author, I can appreciate the amount of work that goes into doing what you have done :thumbsup: (but I can also appreciate the dangers of omissions).
I shall add other items as they are worked on my car and so you are aware, my local garage would have done exactly what is highlighted in the guide. As an enthusiast, I regularly check my car all over.
 

Pingu

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So ,if there's a next time, why not send the author a PM instead of showing how smart you are on the public forum.
This is the first time Dawn has done this, to aid those with as much knowledge as she has and as such should be commended not belittled.
I appreciate the comments you have made, just not the way you made them.:)

Tony.
Noted. No embarrassment was meant, and apologises from me if that's how it has been taken.
 

Silver Baz

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I tried to keep the car level (I have a pit ) is it better to lift front for oil draining ?
 

Stevo7682

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I tried to keep the car level (I have a pit ) is it better to lift front for oil draining ?
Sump is designed to be drained level.
But probably not a car out there that you will get every drop oil out of gets trapped in sump baffling and cylinder head amongst places but you will get the larger majority of it out.
 

t-tony

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If you can raise only one side raise the left as the rain plug is on the right. Loosen the oil filter right out before draining too or it will not empty.

Tony.
 

t-tony

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t-tony

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My mistake mate, never done the plugs on a 4 pot at the Shed yet, but it is much closer to the M44 than a 6 pot engine? Perhaps you could do a "How to" on spark plug change for owners of said cars then?:)

Tony.
 
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