Got a problem above my pay grade....again.

Roadster owner

Regular Member
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Aug 18, 2024
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13
In my 2001 Z/3 roadster, I have a seatbelt that is stuck. It is not fully out nor in, but about half way and will neither retract nor extend any further. I have jerked around on it to no avail and I want to know if there is anyone who might have any ideas on how to get the darned thing to break free. I have seen pictures and from what I gather, I will have to completely disassemble the interior of the car from the seats back to access the seat belt retractor mechanism. I am not in any way up for that nor do I foresee that within my budget in the near future. I feel that to have it done will be quite expensive and really don't know anyone near me who I can say does that kind of work with any expertise. Any advise will be appreciated.
 

t-tony

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British Zeds
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Dec 31, 2013
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Location
Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
Model of Z
E89 Z4 23i Auto
Is it the drivers (right) seatbelt, or, the passengers (left) which is stuck?. I'm asking so as to whether you can drive it.

Tony.
 

t-tony

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Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
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E89 Z4 23i Auto
It's a whole since I owned a Z3 and can't remember where the inertia reel is mounted. I seem to think it is on the rear of the cabin. Uou will have to access the reel and loosen the mounting bolt (there is only one),but only loosen it, do not remove it.
By moving the seatbelt reel you should be able to " unlock" the reel and make the reel retract and then tighten the bolt.

Tony.
 

John_B

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Z3 2.8 pre-facelift (Izzy)
The seatbelt mechanism is bolted to the bulkhead at the base of the outer roll hoop bracket. Access is by removing the turret and lateral trim, which sadly requires the central storage box to be removed first (and roll hoops if you have them). It can be done without removing the seat, although this makes it much easier.

beware though, even when you've stripped all that trim, the seatbelt mechanism is sealed unit. I'd suggest being very confident you can put it all back together right before disassembling further

b5ef3d2d-5ca6-4a03-9776-e1fecef5c3e9.jpeg
 

t-tony

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Torksey Lock,Lincoln, England
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E89 Z4 23i Auto
You do not need to disassemble anything other than gain access to the mounting bolt for the inertia reel. IF you can't get the reel to retract by loosening the mounting bolt and moving the reel then it will need to be replaced.

Tony.
 

Shelly

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Ianmc

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New Forest
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Z3 (M44)
Some gentle tapping and much pulling eventually released mine a year or two ago, no problems since.
 

Mint

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Hi and :welcome: to the forum from me too in Stafford. If you do get the belt to move again, pull it right out and give it a wash with washing up liquid. Let it dry before letting it retract.
 

Roadster owner

Regular Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2024
Points
13
The seatbelt mechanism is bolted to the bulkhead at the base of the outer roll hoop bracket. Access is by removing the turret and lateral trim, which sadly requires the central storage box to be removed first (and roll hoops if you have them). It can be done without removing the seat, although this makes it much easier.

beware though, even when you've stripped all that trim, the seatbelt mechanism is sealed unit. I'd suggest being very confident you can put it all back together right before disassembling further

View attachment 314361
I am uneasy about taking the interior apart. I am not too concerned about the unit itself once I can get to it. I don't know if it is held together with clips, pop in plastic rivets, or screws and do not own the "specialty tools" it requires to do a lot of interior work such as this and certainly do not want to crack or break any interior panels. I wish I could find more detailed info on how to really take those covers off.
 

John_B

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Derbyshire, UK
Model of Z
Z3 2.8 pre-facelift (Izzy)
It's just screws. The first time I did it was following the roll hoop installation guide which assumes you have a non-roll hoop car. If you have roll hoops, follow the instructions backwards, loosing instead of tightening, removing instead of adding, etc.

It's not hard, although it is time consuming.
 

Attachments

Roadster owner

Regular Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2024
Points
13
It's just screws. The first time I did it was following the roll hoop installation guide which assumes you have a non-roll hoop car. If you have roll hoops, follow the instructions backwards, loosing instead of tightening, removing instead of adding, etc.

It's not hard, although it is time consuming.
John_B, you are a lifesaver. That is EXACTLY the kind of information I was looking for. Time I have. I have been retired since 2002 and usually don't know what day of the week it is. My wife drives this car most of the time and very seldom do two people ever get in it so once it gets too bad to drive around with the top down, I have all the time in the world to work on it. Thanks again sir. This old man from Tennessee really appreciates people like you. If you ever need any help with something pre 1970, made in America, let me know and I will be glad help you. I was a certified auto mechanic back in the early 70s, was a drag racer back in the day and used to know my way around anything performance when it came to automobiles. I also have built a couple of 1930's classics back to original stock condition from the ground up as well. I am just lost on these BMWs though. I used to build and race VWs back in the early 70s. Built several of the old bugs with EMPI parts and raced them with quite a bit of success. Loved the simplicity of the design. Best of luck in your future kind sir and again, thank you so very very much.
 

John_B

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Location
Derbyshire, UK
Model of Z
Z3 2.8 pre-facelift (Izzy)
You're welcome, with your experience you'll not have any issue taking it apart, it's just a case of learning how the jigsaw goes together!

Watch out for any nasty creepy crawlies that might have made the areas under the trim a home. Thankfully we don't have anything too dangerous in Derbyshire, but it didn't stop some of our eight-legged friends making themselves comfortable in my new project...
IMG_3240.jpg
 

Roadster owner

Regular Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2024
Points
13
You're welcome, with your experience you'll not have any issue taking it apart, it's just a case of learning how the jigsaw goes together!

Watch out for any nasty creepy crawlies that might have made the areas under the trim a home. Thankfully we don't have anything too dangerous in Derbyshire, but it didn't stop some of our eight-legged friends making themselves comfortable in my new project...
View attachment 314433
Well, in some parts of the world they would just add hot water and eat them. Take care.
 

Roadster owner

Regular Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2024
Points
13
HEY OUT THERE.....I need a gas cap for my 2001 Z/3. I have found several on E-Bay, but I have no idea what to buy. Some say they fit a Z/3 and some say they fit a Z/3 M. I have no idea which one I need but my car just says Z/3 on it. One of the caps looks as if it has a plastic piece on the bottom and one doesn't. I have no idea what mine had and I don't want to buy the wrong one. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks you in advance.
 

Duncodin

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Pontrhydyrun
Model of Z
Z3 M44
HEY OUT THERE.....I need a gas cap for my 2001 Z/3. I have found several on E-Bay, but I have no idea what to buy. Some say they fit a Z/3 and some say they fit a Z/3 M. I have no idea which one I need but my car just says Z/3 on it. One of the caps looks as if it has a plastic piece on the bottom and one doesn't. I have no idea what mine had and I don't want to buy the wrong one. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks you in advance.
Many years ago I lost my fuel cap. Left it at a gas station many miles away. Went to a local gas station bought a mars bar and a coffee and told the guy I'd lost my cap and he pulled a shoebox from under the counter full to the brim with fuel caps. Said I could root around in there to see if one in there would do it. It did.
 

Althulas

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Banburyshire
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M Roadster
Have a look on Realoem, input your car details and look in the fuel part details. You will find a diagram with the relevant part number, then you can Google that for some hits. Looking up my own pre face lift which is a lockable one 16116750571 came in at £26 for a genuine one on eBay which would most likely be cheaper at the dealer.
 

Roadster owner

Regular Member
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Aug 18, 2024
Points
13
Thank you. I went to "Parts Geek" and found one they guarantee to be the correct one for a very close price and my local BMW guy say they are good about getting you the right part so I am going that route. Do you have any ideas why my left side parking lights just stopped working? I have researched the fuse box and the "R2" relay looked to be the probable culprit, but replacing it didn't solve the problem. Looking for some help if anyone has any ideas.
 

Duncodin

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Sep 8, 2021
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Location
Pontrhydyrun
Model of Z
Z3 M44
. . .
. . .
Do you have any ideas why my left side parking lights just stopped working? I have researched the fuse box and the "R2" relay looked to be the probable culprit, but replacing it didn't solve the problem. Looking for some help if anyone has any ideas.
You said parking lights. Does it fail only when in parking light mode? Does it work when you turn the normal lights on?
 

Stevo7682

Zorg Expert (I)
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The M44 Massive
Scottish Zeds
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Apr 1, 2016
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Location
Maybole , South Ayrshire
Model of Z
Z3 Individual Dakar / Orinoco Individual
Headlight switch can cause issues sometimes ( they start to break up internally)
Stephen.
 
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