Dxbolton
Zorg Guru (II)
Let’s see your handles and locks?
Rebody Door locks on Rebody
- Thread starter Dxbolton
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Dxbolton
Zorg Guru (II)
As many questions are being asked about handles and locks, here’s a thread that may help
If this lever does not fully retract, the car will not open using the central locking. The Alfa handle I tried had approx 10mm ‘Push’ which is not enough to allow the lever to go back.
The herald has about 16mm ‘push’ so works well
If this lever does not fully retract, the car will not open using the central locking. The Alfa handle I tried had approx 10mm ‘Push’ which is not enough to allow the lever to go back.
The herald has about 16mm ‘push’ so works well
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Not relevant the the mechanics of locking, but where do people get their retro-looking handles from? New obviously!
I am struggling to source any, let alone decide which ones!
I am struggling to source any, let alone decide which ones!
The original 507 handle has an interesting action.
I imagine it lays flat to the body and you press the button and the lever pops out.
I think it was @Piran who posted a picture of a pontiac handle that looks to have a similar action.
I might see if I can find some info on those to see how the action works
Fiat Barchetta also have a flush 'pop out' lever too and maybe easier to get than pontiac. But it all comes down to the action.
I imagine it lays flat to the body and you press the button and the lever pops out.
I think it was @Piran who posted a picture of a pontiac handle that looks to have a similar action.
I might see if I can find some info on those to see how the action works
Fiat Barchetta also have a flush 'pop out' lever too and maybe easier to get than pontiac. But it all comes down to the action.
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My plan (hope) is to connect a new handle to the skin that just pulls on the original z3 handle. No messing about with linkage inside the door.
Reading this last few days about deadlocking. Don't want deadlock.
So, anyway. I just went outside and lifted my z3 door handle all the way up before unlocking with the remote central locking. Worked fine.
So it looks like the position of the outside door handle, even if it hasn't returned to its rest position, doesn't cause a deadlock? Or is my lock not behaving as expected.
The idea of rigging up a handle that just pulls on the old one. Is this idea immune to deadlock?
Reading this last few days about deadlocking. Don't want deadlock.
So, anyway. I just went outside and lifted my z3 door handle all the way up before unlocking with the remote central locking. Worked fine.
So it looks like the position of the outside door handle, even if it hasn't returned to its rest position, doesn't cause a deadlock? Or is my lock not behaving as expected.
The idea of rigging up a handle that just pulls on the old one. Is this idea immune to deadlock?
Dxbolton
Zorg Guru (II)
Open the door, open window. close it with the handle lifted.
Lock car,
Try opening from inside, it will be deadlocked
Until you release the outer handle, it shouldn’t open.
The gold lever shown above has to fully retract to allow the door to unlock.
I will check to see if I still have the door internal video I took showing how my mechanism failed to work. I was only about 2 mm short of the gold lever fully returning, but no matter how I moved the different fulcrum points I could not gain the extra bit of distance I needed
Opening from inside? (Locked in?) I thought the deadlocking we we were talking about is that the remote central locking would not unlock the car and I'd be "locked out". But Locked In is also something I need to check of course.
A few days ago you posted this photo - thank you for that. It really does help me.
Looking at that picture the original z3 handle, the bottom of the z3 handle/flap, is about an inch lower than the tape measure. That would mean the gap between skins is just about 3/4" That might be too small for my idea with the handle I have. I have other ideas up my sleeve though but I do need to go mock up a skin and try some things.
It might be easier if I actually had a real skin but I'd be very reluctant to cut it till I've made a mock up and got something that has a decent chance of working.
jaguartvr
Zorg Guru (I)
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Deadlocking is that you cannot open the door, inside, outside with the key in the ignition. you can try what you want but if the car is deadlocked the only way is to use the BMW key in the outer door lock or lift the lever marked in Dxboltons post above.
Do not confuse deadlocking with simply locking the car with the remote they are very different.
Do not confuse deadlocking with simply locking the car with the remote they are very different.
So under what circumstances would a Z3 be 'deadlocked' and what triggers it?
That’s a Pontiac Grand Prix handle, they’re still available new I think.
Knew I had a link, my Fiero has the most hideous handles possible and I was considering those, now probably going to go electric with a TVR style switch under the mirror.
www.thepartsplaceinc.com
The Parts Place
1969 Pontiac Grand Prix 69-UP NEW DOOR HANDLE SET GM 8727607 (GRAND PRIX)
If you do go lectric please come back and tell us what solenoid you used.
The fiat ones are much cheaper and easier to get hold of - so I'm going to try those, I know someone who successfully used them on another tribute but I'm not sure that had the extra door skins so we'll see.
the mk1 mx5 ones look quite nice too
they seem to be quite expensive though
Oh I’m a long way from restoring the Pontiac, I have to fix my Z first.
Plenty of vids on YouTube, using whatever central locking solenoid the car is fitted with, to activate the door push/pull rod. Mostly coupled with a door popper. I don’t much fancy the method some use of having the popper near the lock, not in tight UK car parks. I’ll likely site it near a hinge. The poppers are available in various strengths, easily customised. Loads of waterproof switches available, using a remote controller would do away with that, not like anyone could get into the car without one, but then neither could the driver
Plenty of vids on YouTube, using whatever central locking solenoid the car is fitted with, to activate the door push/pull rod. Mostly coupled with a door popper. I don’t much fancy the method some use of having the popper near the lock, not in tight UK car parks. I’ll likely site it near a hinge. The poppers are available in various strengths, easily customised. Loads of waterproof switches available, using a remote controller would do away with that, not like anyone could get into the car without one, but then neither could the driver
New ones, yes, I expect so, I’ve seen them as low as US$20 on eBay, about £40 inc carriage to UK.they seem to be quite expensive though
Dxbolton
Zorg Guru (II)
If you look at the photos, if the big gold lever does not FULLY retract to its closed position, the central locking will not allow the car to open.
It only has to be a 1mm away from full retraction and the car won’t open
Dxbolton
Zorg Guru (II)
I added these plates to the lock and was trying to make the external handle act upon the plate. I can’t find the videos now, probably deleted them in a fit on annoyance!
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Steve. @10stb You building a 507? Show us your handles?Hi Piran, making good progress I see. Well done
How did you manage to get the boot to central lock. I've just fitted my handles (went for classic mini) and central locking works great with them.
Currently have the boot to open normally with the handle but would love to link it to the central locking.
I opted for external triumph boot hinges and a bonnet stay from a vw polo as I was concerned about flexing with gas struts.
Cheers
Steve
I wanted to sit them slightly lower than others have so needed to make adjustments to the cut out on the zed door and fix a bracket to the plunger on the handle. Could have opted for mgb or triumph handles but preferred the look of the mini
