BMW Z3 Hardtop

Ashbandicoot

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I am collecting a hardtop at the weekend incl 'fitting kit' but not the heated rear screen switch.

I know I will need to source a switch, but should I have the wiring for the screen pre-installed? K on the fitting kit diagram
dia.jpg


I have checked the vehicle data using the VIN and it lists std equipment as hardtop preparation, i haven't physically looked as it is raining too much to put the roof down! :)

cheers


Ash
 

oldcarman

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IIRC the wiring is in place to the rear of your consel and you need the wiring to the switch and to the contacts on the fittings plus from there to the window. I am almost at that point so please let me know if you discover different. JIM
 

oldcarman

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Great, did you have any problems with the rear fittings at all! I have one side that doesn't seem to want to go fully down but I haven't been well the past couple of weeks and will have a closer look next week. Just had the safety and new tires put on so now insured and top's down. JIM
 
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zedonist

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Two results there lads well done both, now lets see some pics?
 

Ashbandicoot

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Jim, I found both brackets went on fairly easily, the passenger side was a little more difficult as the soft tops mechanism was in the way of one of the bolts. Have you loosened the 10mm nut to slide the bracket under?

One of my allen key bolts wouldn't bite to attach the cowling over the bracket, but as it's only for aesthetics I haven't bothered to sort it yet.

Zed, I've only got the picture above at the moment - ill take some more tomorrow if it it's dry :snaphappy:

cheers

Ash
 

oldcarman

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Hi Ash, I think what I'll try is to take the fitting and secure it to the top's fitting and then see where everything lines up. How did you manage the adjuster that uses the hook wrench? Do you have one or use something different? I don't have one but I think one of my spring loaded plumbing tools should do the trick. I need to buy the large covers but did get a set of the small ones on eBay. Hopefully a set will show up but I'm really not that concerned. I also have to source the two bolts for the front header. I don't necessarily think I need the factory ones that remain when the top is removed but can live with taking them out when needed.
As for pics Zed, I'll put a rush on that. Just need to dust off the old Brownie and find somewhere they sell and develop film. JIM
 

Ashbandicoot

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Hi Jim, I think in my first reply I got confused and thought you were referring to fitting brackets to the car..

I haven't got the adjusting wrench, I simply fitted the top + brackets as they were and it was a snug fit, so I'm not much help there! I'll take a look at mine tomorrow - are you referring to this adjustment?
ht.jpg

With regard to the front bolts, someone is selling both of them and a torx
tool on eBay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-BMW-Z...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20ed6d6a26
I think there will be a cheaper option available though..

cheers

Ash
 

hard top

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I don't know if this info is of any use but I read something similar to @Ashbandicoot explanation today on FB. I have never had to do this to mine.

HELP NEEDED QUICK WHILE THE SUN IS OUT.
I fitted the hardtop last weekend, passenger window very tight going up, roof needs adjustment.

Hi guys you have to adjust the pin holders in the rear brackets, sometimes 1 or 2 mm makes the problem. You have to take out the hardtop and adjust those brackets and you need 2 people to do it if you don't have the ceiling hoist. I'm the expert for that problem.

Gauges only help to adjust the height of the top though - what you need is to adjust the driver's side pin on the hardtop so that it pulls the roof inboard by a millimeter or so. There is a ring that you undo on the hardtop pin (NOT the bracket on the car) and you can move it before re-locking it and trying the roof again. The rear mounts adjust in all three axes, the fronts only adjust front/back and side to side.

The pins are only locked in place by a locking ring. They are free to move when the ring is released and clamped in position when it is tightened. This is part of the design to make the hardtop fit well. I do actually have a hardtop on my car and have helped fit several others. Now if it were the softtop that didn't fit right, then I would adjust the window, as the softtop doesn't adjust. The general idea with the hardtop is to have it sit in exactly the same position as the softtop so that everything seals.

Any adjustment to the mounting position as you suggest should be compensated by changing the position on the opposite side to make the spacing equal. If needed there are shims available to be placed behind the mounting strip moving the weather strip inboard or outboard as necessary.
 

oldcarman

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Yes Ash, those are the adjusters I meant. I've decided that two stock front bolts are crazy expensive for a couple of bolts with a T handle torx wrench which I already have. So, will be going with a couple of special bolts I have in my junk drawer that will live in my glove box when the HT is off.
HT. That info will help a lot I'm sure, thanks! JIM
 

DavidM

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Jim,

Just a note - take care using non OEM bolts for right and left roof positions on your hardtop. I believe the OEM bolts are two M8x18 - they cost around $9. Bolts longer than these could present problems if screwed too far into the brackets .... into the fibreglass roof??

David.
 

DavidM

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Hi Jim, I think in my first reply I got confused and thought you were referring to fitting brackets to the car..

I haven't got the adjusting wrench, I simply fitted the top + brackets as they were and it was a snug fit, so I'm not much help there! I'll take a look at mine tomorrow - are you referring to this adjustment?
View attachment 9500
With regard to the front bolts, someone is selling both of them and a torx
tool on eBay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-BMW-Z...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20ed6d6a26
I think there will be a cheaper option available though..

cheers

Ash
Ash,

Just read your post re: fitting your hardtop with no adjustment necessary if the hardtop is sitting snug and too low you may mark the paintwork below the rear side window areas, particularly if driving over poor road surfaces. The distance from mounting gauges, set right and left position at rear window, to metal of hardtop, should be 6.4 mm. Just fitted my hardtop and it took some time to get the hardtop sitting in the correct position.

Hope this helps.

David.
 

Ashbandicoot

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Hi David

I don't have a mounting gauge, are you saying the clearance between the bottom of the hardtop and the car should be 6.4mm?

cheers

Ash
 

DavidM

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Ash,

Yes 6.4 mm from car to bottom of rear of hardtop as demonstrated (sort of) in the attached photo, but measuring both sides at the rear window, and in mm not inches. If you are not using the mounting gauges I would suggest creating a gap just over 6.4 at both rear points then test on different road surface conditions. If the hardtop rattles, bring the top down to 6.4 at the rear point adjustments and check again. Check also for water leaks at the A-Pillars and back window rubber seals. I followed the sound instructions provided on this forum. I have copied the summary further below. I hope all goes well with the final adjustments.

David.
image.jpg

    1. BMW Z3 Hard Top Fitting (1996 – 2002)
      The following is the experience from Paul Lynch in fitting his hard top.

      I fitted my fitting kit and hardtop a while ago now – but it wasn’t really perfect (I was about 95% happy with it).. It was weather tight – but I was getting a slight clunk from the rear when going over bad roads/potholes etc and a very slight wind noise. I always said I’d get round to sorting it out once and for all once time and weather permitted! and low and behold it was actually sunny here today for a change!!

      I’ve attached the official BMW HardTop Fitting/adjusting guide which is a good base to begin with – but felt it was fair warning to say that it’s not a simple one and done job. I’d say that if anyone was looking at doing this then set aside 2-3 hours or so (and it needs 2 people).

      BMW HardTop Fitting Kit instructions (PDF)

      BMW HardTop Fitting Instructions (PDF)

      The equipment/items you’ll need (don’t skimp on the mounting gauges as they give you the exact gap you need!)
      • Hook spanner (BMW part no: 54211972684)
      • Mounting gauge (BMW part no: 54219408881)
      • Dust sheet (to rest the roof on when off the car)
      • T40 Torx screwdriver or screw bit (for the front windshield mountings)
      • T30 Torx screwdriver or screw bit (for the adjustability in the roof windshield mounting)
      • 24mm open ended spanner (for the height adjustment in the lock down latches either side)
      • 10mm combination spanner (you can use a 10mm socket on the drivers side -the wiring for the defrost switch gets in the way on the passenger side)
      • 13mm socket (for the pass through bolt from the folding roof frame support to the covers for the side rear pieces)
      • Tape measure
      • Feeler gauge
      • Loctite
      • BMW rubber treatment or Gummi Phledge
      • Rag
      • Hexagon socket screw 2.5mm (for trim pieces that cover mounting bracket)
      • Phillips screw driver (for removing and replacing rear latch down covers)
      • BMW screen cover
      The attached guide pretty much covers the steps you need to take.
      1. You remove all of the covers and loosen everything off (and there is a LOT of adjustment in the roof and the brackets).
      2. I’d then suggest you remove your aerial as it is one less obstacle to try and avoid.
      3. Fit your rear BMW screen cover and lower the roof.
      4. Fit your mounting gauges.
      5. You then offer the roof up to the car (lining the front/windscreen edge first) and then look at getting the spikes in their hole each side. (The instructions are pretty good at this point regarding talking you through getting the roof square and aligned properly on the car – remember to nip up all of the bolts and make sure the height in the rear adjusters/brackets is good in comparison to the gauges).
      6. Tighten up the windscreen mounting bolts and the 3 x T30 bolts each side of the roof (making sure the seal from the a-pillar is spot on each side and it lines up roughly how your cloth roof did with the windshield frame)
      7. You can now remove the hardtop
      8. Remove the mounting gauges
      9. Fit the trim pieces to the hardtop (2 front covers and the 2 covers that fit over the rear latches)
      10. Refit the hardtop to the car
      Job done!!

      Things to watch out for:
      * Make sure there is NO gap either side on the A-Pillar otherwise you WILL get leaks/water ingress
      * When you’re fairly happy with the roof position – check that both windows go up and down without interference (if not then adjust! – you shouldn’t need to adjust the windows – if it was fine with the cloth roof then it should be fine with the hardtop! the adjustment needs to be made in the hardtop!)
      * Make sure the height with the gauges is accurate! – if not then you will get a clatter from the rear of the roof when going over rough ground as the roof comes into contact with the body!

      Hopefully this helps add some more clarity around fitting a hardtop!
      GazHyde, Mar 29, 2014
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    2. Article Author GazHyde, Find all articles by GazHyde
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FRANKIE

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Jim the wiring was in place, I bought the hard top & fitted today :D
View attachment 9492
I don't have a hardtop so I can't help you, however, I noticed 4 bolts where your boot rack goes. When I purchased my Z3, the boot rack was already installed. Did you put in these bolts in place of the rack when you're not using it? Did these bolts come with the rack or are they something you thought of? Frankie
 

hard top

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@FRANKIE they are black bolt on caps but there are also chrome caps that I have seen and mine came with the car.

 

Ashbandicoot

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@FRANKIE the bolts were already on my car when I bought it, unfortunately the seller didn't have the rack. Its on my to-buy list :)

cheers

Ash
 

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