Crimped connectors have caused such headaches in the past - except when I owned a Fiat where kept a set in the car so that when the wires came off I could repair it in the layby.Top Tip
Much more reliable and easier than crimping individual terminals and then fitting them int terminal blocks. Much more secure as well and before anyone asks, yes, I do have the proper terminal crimpers.
Thanks, will defintiely be in touch, I've been combing through your build thread trying to follow what goes where and what needs removing/changing and where to start. Certainly have a few questions for you when I get nearer to doing certain bits and I'm currently building a shopping list of parts as I can't start work till at least next weekend and I'll be limited then (I set my shoulder recovery back after over doing things the other week )Good luck with the build, shout out if you need any pointers
Lol, I painted my Triumph Herald with a roller - got a deccent finish on that.Upol reface. you can get it on eBay. It is an ideal base coat for GRP, especially if you have used any filler.
It is meant to be spayed on but you can use a small gloss roller. It will fill most imperfections and you then sand it back ready of the primer.
It is as hard as nails and really is essential if you want a problem free paint finish.
There will be lots of fettling.Well, had a couple of weeks off to do a 1500 mile road trip round Ireland.
Back to it now, I have the bonnet on, mostly to get it out of the way. I've done some gel coat repairs which didn't go so well.
Yesterday I finally fixed the rear end on which was a mix. I'm a bit concerned about the lack of gap between the rear tub and the doors, checked the boot hinges and they now bind in the rear of the tub so I'll be looking at that today.
Fastening the bottom rear of the tub was different in the order of cm for each side - quite a few packing washers used there.There will be lots of fettling.
BMW's body tolerances are measured in 10s or 100s of microns. Fibreglass body tolerances are measured in 100s or 1000s of microns.
For example, my suspension is different heights at each side, but the body looks right.
You will need to get a pack of thick and thin washers, and just live with the fact that it will never be perfect.
I have got the drivers door gaps pretty good now but still need to play with the passenger side which is tighter than I’d like on rear door edge to rear tub. That’s a job for winter nights though.Well, had a couple of weeks off to do a 1500 mile road trip round Ireland.
Back to it now, I have the bonnet on, mostly to get it out of the way. I've done some gel coat repairs which didn't go so well.
Yesterday I finally fixed the rear end on which was a mix. I'm a bit concerned about the lack of gap between the rear tub and the doors, checked the boot hinges and they now bind in the rear of the tub so I'll be looking at that today.
I haven't unpacked the door skins yet but the original z3 doors rub the grp(particularly on the passenger side). Will try and get somewhere with the boot first though.I have got the drivers door gaps pretty good now but still need to play with the passenger side which is tighter than I’d like on rear door edge to rear tub. That’s a job for winter nights though.