98' Z3M Cooling issues

tye1138

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Jun 21, 2015
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New to the forum, thanks for taking your time out to read this.

So over 18 months ago I purchased this 98' M Roadster with 105k on the clock from a local aficionado. The car was great for the first year, but since then I've had a lot of failures. First it was the water pump, impeller exploded about a mile from home, I coasted it back with the engine off most of the time. Needle was in the red, but the engine wasn't on for most of it, so I wasn't too concerned. I installed an aluminum impeller water pump and a few weeks later, the thermostat housing exploded and I installed an aluminum one of those as well.

The cooling system ran strong for 6 months, not a single glitch. Few weeks ago I started noticing white dots in the engine compartment, a clear sign of a coolant leak. The coolant reservoir was down to the bottom, so I filled it back up with water and ever since that day, the temp gauge has been reading between the center line and the first line to the right. Literally one day everything was fine, coolant was low, filled it up and that first drive, the gauge had started moving.

I replaced the hoses first, thinking that was the problem since it was clearly leaking and it did solve the leaking, but the temperature kept being high. I plugged in my OBD2 scanner, checked the temp and sure enough it was around 215F at idle. I checked over the major components and they appeared to be OEM, so the first step was to replace all those old components with new ones.

I've replaced the radiator, thermostat (88c), both temp sensors, fan blades and fan clutch, all the hoses, coolant reservoir, reservoir cap, bled cap, went through and checked the water pump (already have a new one) and sealed everything up. No leaks or issues under the hood.

The system works flawlessly, stiff hoses, no bleeding problems, hot heat at idle, fan clutch engages when hot, the whole 9 yards. However, the car is never at the 197F baseline. The car likes to be around 205 when driving and generally gets to 210 when sitting in traffic. It doesn't go anything over 210 with the engine running, even at idle. It seems the cap is 210 no matter what the conditions. Of course, the gauge reads over center ALL the time and the fan clutch is always engaged trying to bring the temp's down, which is annoying.

I've spent the better part of a month trying to diagnose and fix this issue, but nothing has helped. I did a cylinder by cylinder leak-down test, which passed with flying colors. I changed the plugs to make sure the fuel was burning well. I've done bleeding on hills to make sure there wasn't an air bubble trapped in the system. I've even tried different coolant ratio's and currently have water wetter in the car, after that initial part replacement, absolutely not a single thing I've done has gotten the temp lower. As summer approaches quickly here in So Cal, I'm very concerned about taxing the system even more as it already seems to be at the limit.

I've been working on BMW's for 13 years, this is my 6th and my 2nd M Roadster. I know this car like the back of my hand and when problems like this have come up in the past, it's been nothing but a piece of cake to solve. Honestly, outside of there being a serious fueling condition that doesn't show up on the plugs… I'm at a loss. A super lean engine could have the same symptoms, but the plugs don't look bad.

So… anyone have any ideas?

Ohh and thanks again for the assistance!
 

Cooper

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Hi and welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear that you have had so many heat issues. Look, I dont know a whole lot so someone else might be able to help. Anyway.... The engines will produce extreme heat and rely on circulation. you have replaced almost everything conceivable so I am wondering if there is some blockage somewhere in the system. You know, a constriction somewhere? Anyway, I hope you sort the issue real fast!
 

Jack Ratt

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My Zed runs hot, with the needle very close to the red on the gauge but it's running ok and there are no leaks and I don't lose any fluids so I just take it that it's normal for it to run hot.
 

Cooper

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Should be in the middle and there is a range of temperatures which will hold the needle there. Outside of that means an issue I believe.
 

HornelZ3M

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East Anglian Crew
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Raglan. South Wales
Model of Z
Z3M Roadster
Hi Tye, welcome... The gauge on my m stays on the mark just below middle and never moves even in traffic so i am wondering what type of oil you use, as if it is too thick then it may be causing the engine to get warmer than normal. The head gasket could be faulty from the original overheating problem and hopefully not warped the block....
 

tye1138

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Jun 21, 2015
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Location
Los Angeles
Thanks for the replies guys.

So I'm using 10W40 Shell T6, which I've been using for quite sometime without a problem. Generally the higher weight oils help with heat, so I assume it's not a problem all of a sudden.

What would help me greatly is if one of you guys can take your OBDII reader and tell me the coolant temperature after doing a hard drive and letting it sit for 10 minutes idling. I have a feeling our gauges go bad over time and that's why people have so many random gauge measurements. I just can't find any "actual" temp sensor numbers, just people taking measurements with pyrometers.

I just don't know if this behavior is unusual or normal because I've never taken OBDII readings before I had a problem. There could be nothing wrong, it maybe just a bad gauge. Another interesting thing is that the sensor which triggers the AUX fan, never hits the 150F point which is required for it to activate. The radiator is cooling very well, it's just not moving the fluid enough at idle.
 

Lee

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Another thing to bare in mind is the difference in climate, We don't often have temperatures stay in the 20's so our cars cooling system wont be tested quite like yours. I would look at the type of coolant your using and engine oil.

If I remember I will take a reading of mine the next time I take her out.

Lee
 

tye1138

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Yea, climate is of course a big problem. When it's cooler outside, it doesn't fluctuate as much. We go from 16c to mid 30's during any given week, this last week it was around 40c and I was driving around with the A/C cranked. But hey, getting any number would be great. A hot car is a hot car in my book! ;)
 

Brian4

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When you say the water pump exploded do you mean literally the impeller broke up. If so did you find all the bits because a small piece could have become lodged somewhere.
 

tye1138

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When you say the water pump exploded do you mean literally the impeller broke up. If so did you find all the bits because a small piece could have become lodged somewhere.
That was my initial idea because I'm missing a reasonably sized piece from one of the corners. However, I did find a bunch of plastic debris in the water pump housing area, nothing that could be considered the missing part, but it must have been what remained. The car worked great for 6 months without a hiccup after that new water pump install, so if it were something like that gumming up the works, it should have reared it's head a bit earlier, don't you think? Now that I've been through the system, replaced the hoses, blown out the whole thing with an air gun and high pressure water, I just can't believe something is jammed in there. It's also getting hotter here (40c tomorrow) so maybe the symptoms were there back then, but because it was cooler, I never saw them?
 

Brian4

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40c we might get to 20c.

Sorry can't be of more help but you seem to have covered everything else.

Only other thing is when you say stiff hoses you should still be able to squeeze them by hand so could you have an airlock as I hear BMWs are a pain to get the air out of?
 

tye1138

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Only other thing is when you say stiff hoses you should still be able to squeeze them by hand so could you have an airlock as I hear BMWs are a pain to get the air out of?
With the car off or cold, the hoses are limp. Only after the car is extremely hot (203F) do the hoses become stiff. I've been told this is totally normal.
 

Brian4

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Sorry you've run me out of ideas hope you find an answer.
 

tye1138

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Yea me too! I'm totally chuck out of ideas. This is why I think its an intermittent DME issue. The car has some other funky DME related issues, like not recognizing the key every once in a while. This is a typical problem with these older electronic key car's, so I'm familiar with the problem. I think the temp's are probably totally fine and the gauge is going wonky because of the DME.
 

Dobiwallah

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New Zealand Zeds
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Napier, New Zealand
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2L
Hi Ty

I don't know if you have solved your problem yet, but my 2L Z3 is doing 96-98 Celsius (OBD2 reading) when idling. If I drive around 100 K/h the temp is between 85-96 degrees. You can see when the fan is coming in, the temp lowers with 10 degrees. The gauge however, doesn't move a bit and stays in the middle. It must have some kind of damping programmed in.
 

oldcarman

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The M44 Massive
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Could it be your rad cap itself not releasing into your overflow bottle? I only have a 1.9 so not really familiar with your motor but it seems you are building pressure which is causing the hoses to leak even though new. Good luck! JIM
 
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